Adjust emerg brake

3

30 A Ripper

Member
Someplace I read about adjusting handle to a specific number of clicks..

My brake handle clicks twice but doesn't,t hold on a slight driveway grade?

Before I get into pulling the rear drums, I would like to try whatever adjustment is possible...

I see maybe 1/2-3/4" of adjustment on the Cleve's at the front arm.

Help.
Dick
Ps-trying to get car ready for my first club tour of maybe 20 miles which is probably 19.5 longer than I,ve done to date <g>.
 
Without seeing/studying your car, I can't truly give you a diagnosis.
However, when my car suffered the same problem of the e-brake unlocking itself, particularly when under pressure from inclines, I replaced the "pawl" with a new one from Bratton's or Snyder's, and now it works great and never unlocks itself. 'Hope that helps.
 
The only adjustment for the E brake is at the clevices on the E brake rods. There is a small amount of movement at the E brake bands. In other words, when the E brake is engaged, the car will move maybe a foot before the bands hit the stop on the carrier. You could be adjusted too tight to get good engagement. It could be problems like Pat mentions with the pawl. It may be a good idea to replace the pawl with the last revision style with finer teeth.
 
I'm not sure if it is unlocking due to worn pawl or my suspicion of just insufficient force applied to the shoes. Don't understand the being too tight comment unless it also is aimed a worn pawl.

Been a while since I encountered this problem but seem to remember this sequence: backed out of garage onto slightly sloped driveway. Applied service brake and then pulled emergency handle which clicked twice. Then removed foot from pedal and emergency brake didn't hold car.

Seems to me back in the day that a brake cable would stretch and not hold the car in park..

Besides a worn pawl, could it be anything inside the rear wheel/drum?

Just had a thought, car is on jack stands and I could manually rotate a rear wheel and ask wife to pull brake handle. But I guess I still wouldn't know whether worn pawl or not tight enough....

Befuddled, Dick
 
Just set brake handle and: couldn't manually turn left rear but right rear spins easily....

What,s to lose if I tighten the Clevis some?

Thanks, Dick
 
If your meaning of not holding on the hill is the handle remains full on it still rolls you need to see why you can't get more. If the handle is returning to an off position than take a good look there at the pawl, latch, spring,& operation. Watch it as it engages/disengages.
 
30 A Ripper said:
Just set brake handle and: couldn't manually turn left rear but right rear spins easily....

What,s to lose if I tighten the Clevis some?

Thanks, Dick
Click to expand...

Yes, adjust the parking brake rod shorter on the side where the wheel still turns. At one click the parking brake should just start a light drag equally to both rear wheels. I set mine so the second click is heavy drag and the third click is locked.
 
As noted you need to equalize the the two sides. Your left side may actually be too tight. If I recall correctly, they had 3 clicks until mid-'30 when the changed the pawl and sector making the teeth finer on the sector providing four clicks which had less travel between clicks.

To be sure the rods aren't too loose, release the brake lever and manually push it all the way forward. Release the lever and watch to see if it comes back toward you. If it does be sure it isn't coming back far enough to rest in the first click.

If all seems well and you cannot pull the lever back to the third click at all or without excessive 'strong-arm' then lengthen the rods slightly and equally in small increments checking each time until you can pull it back to the third click with some effort.
 
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