Adding Guages
- Thread starter JD-OHIO
- Start date
PalAl
Senior Member
JD, I used magnetic cable/wire holders in many areas of my car. Works great under the dash/gas tank, firewall, frame etc. Having the wires in a loom and using these "clips" made for a very neat installation. Got them from Del City
https://www.delcity.net/store/Magne...MI-9HZz5nf5wIVgcVkCh2htwoHEAQYASABEgIYZPD_BwE
https://www.delcity.net/store/Magne...MI-9HZz5nf5wIVgcVkCh2htwoHEAQYASABEgIYZPD_BwE
burner31
Well-known member
JD, I have the same car as you, I used the route that Magicbox suggests.
I only use the temp gauge, as the Model A uses a non-pressurized oil system so a gauge is of little use.
It's a quick and easy install once you have all the pieces, just be sure to get a good quality gauge, I cheaped out twice and now I have two broke cheap gauges and one quality working gauge.
I only use the temp gauge, as the Model A uses a non-pressurized oil system so a gauge is of little use.
It's a quick and easy install once you have all the pieces, just be sure to get a good quality gauge, I cheaped out twice and now I have two broke cheap gauges and one quality working gauge.
Tom Endy
Well-known member
I agree with those that believe an oil pressure gauge is not necessary. The oil pump in a Model A is like an elevator, it elevates oil up to the valve chamber where it lubricates the valve stems, guides, and springs. The oil then runs down through ports in the block to lubricate the main bearings. The excess oil then pours over the front onto the timing gear to lubricate it. The rods are lubricated by the dipper trays. There is not much in the way of oil pressure to be seen on a gauge.
I am not in favor of the gauge mount that fits under the dash. It looks like a knee bumper to me, plus it is hard to see the gauges there. A better location is right under the dash rail. There are a number of bolts located there that a fabricated bracket can be attached to. It is also a better location to view a gauge.
A temperature gauge is absolutely necessary. Another gauge Henry forgot was a tachometer. He also did not provide a back up camera and a GPS. The GPS also provides a speedometer at eye level.
The attached two articles show how all this can be remedied.
Tom Endy
I am not in favor of the gauge mount that fits under the dash. It looks like a knee bumper to me, plus it is hard to see the gauges there. A better location is right under the dash rail. There are a number of bolts located there that a fabricated bracket can be attached to. It is also a better location to view a gauge.
A temperature gauge is absolutely necessary. Another gauge Henry forgot was a tachometer. He also did not provide a back up camera and a GPS. The GPS also provides a speedometer at eye level.
The attached two articles show how all this can be remedied.
Tom Endy
Hi Tom. In your article on the Tach it states "Two wire leads from the tach attach to the two coil primary terminals". Does that mean your tach is 'Hot' all the time? Neg side on coil is connected directly to terminal box on Pos ground system? Please explain.
I had to rewire so my ignition switch was 'before' the coil instead of 'after' like a original Model A should be wired so my tach was not powered up all the time.
I had to rewire so my ignition switch was 'before' the coil instead of 'after' like a original Model A should be wired so my tach was not powered up all the time.
Tom Endy
Well-known member
My Victoria is wired as Henry ordered. It is six volt positive ground. The ignition switch is electrically below the coil. There is always voltage sitting on each coil primary terminal. When my tac is connected the two wires also see voltage. However, there is no current flowing thought the coil or the tac until the ignition switch is closed and the points are closed. The tac does not become active until it sees a pulse from the primary winding of the coil. That only happens when the points close. When current is flowing through the coil, one terminal is momentarily at ground.There is no other ground on the tac so there is no current flowing through the tac when the points are open or the ignition is switched off..
Tom Endy
Thanks Tom for the explanation. My Tach has an integral light in it and when wired as you have it the light stays on. But it seems my Tach also has a ground wire and yours does not. So I rewired so the switch is before the coil and the coil does not see voltage until the switch is turned on. That is why I asked.
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Pete
BANNED
It may take a half second longer to look at all the gauges with them mounted all over the place but the only one I need in autocross is the tach.
I like these locations because all the wires and pipes for the gauges are out of sight except for the tach.
I like these locations because all the wires and pipes for the gauges are out of sight except for the tach.
Attachments
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Hoz about something like THIS?
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
For me , the most important gauge that can be added to the model A is a coolant or temperature gauge . I do run an oil pressure gauge in my 31 tudor but figure that it is mostly useless because oil pressure is very low on an original model A engine . The oil pressure gauge is mostly useful to show if engine oil is real low . I never need to add oil between oil changes on my overhauled model A engines . I'm not racing , so I really don't need a tachometer . Just my thought but I feel that too many gauges takes away from the original look .
I like your gauge set up but what really caught my eye was your steering column support...was that a commercially obtainable product or is it something you have made up ? if so, I would be most interested to see it in detail . Mt car is right hand drive and your bracket looks to be adaptable for both sides.many thanksHoz about something like THIS?
Vic....NZ
Hi Jack. Here is the wiring diagram I used to rewire my ignition switch. I didn't draw it. I copied it from a thread on electric gas shut off valves.
Attachments
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
If the gauges pictured belonged to Y -Blockhead , I meant no harm in post #12 .
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
HAHA, Oh hell no. Not mine. I saw that on the net somewhere and grabbed a picture of it. Vic, I have seen that type of mount for sale at Hot Rod Shops. Try maybe Speedway Motors? They have numerous sizes. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...nt-1-3-4-Inch-Hole-2-1-2-Inch-Drop,42330.html
The only added gauge I have are a temp and vacuum gauge and only the vacuum gauge because it was on my shelf and I had a hole to fill.
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Ruth ' thanks for the reply but the line to the points goes through the ignition switch and it has to be broken and tied directly to the coil which is where I have my problem. This is the same as I figured out but to put a line from the coil through the ignition switch housing that's hooked to the wire that goes to the points and another pair feeding power to the rest of the car which also has to go through the switch to be turned on and off'. That makes for three wires in the ignition switch housing which I don't think is possible. Jack
