Adding grease fittings

1928Pickuppain

1928Pickuppain

Senior Member
So I'd like to compile a small list of places were there are no grease fittings and probably really should be and reasons why or why not.

Clutch release shaft, seems like there should be a grease fitting on eaither side of shaft on bottom of bell housing??

Break cross shaft

Ebrake shaft?

The last thing I was thinking about is the radius ball, why not weld a nut on the top plate were the hole is and run a tube from nut to the inside of the bell housing to a coupler on the behouing with a zerk pressed into the out side of bell housing so it can get greased every 500 miles with everything else instead of felt pad? Or even just drill bottom plate weld on nut, drill and press on zerk fitting and still leave felt pad in place.

Is there any were else that does not have grease fittings from the factory that would benefit from having them?
 
I added one to the bearing in the torque tube near the speedo gear to make sure she gets fresh grease


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the steering gear sector shaft housing portion may have had one ? door hinge pins would have been nice, like MG TC's have
 
Pinesdune said:
I added one to the bearing in the torque tube near the speedo gear to make sure she gets fresh grease


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Just get an AA as they were that was from the factory:D grease zerk is a triple whammy greasing the front bearing and speedometer gear and eventually the U joint.
 
I put one on the clutch and brake pedals and on the lower clutch shaft where it goes through the bell housing and others I can't remember right now.
 
Grease fitting installed (first photo upload for me ever I think)
 

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ooh nice job! Should deffinately help. I agree on the pedal bushings as well should have a grease zerk.
 
You don't really need grease fittings on the brake shafts,as they have oil impregnated bearings. You can squirt some oil in there when you do your greasing.
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
You don't really need grease fittings on the brake shafts,as they have oil impregnated bearings. You can squirt some oil in there when you do your greasing.
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Beg to differ. We have to use gudgeon bushes for the pedals. 1" diameter shaft. Just a couple more of a very long list of things NOT available RHD.
 
Trying to out do Fords engineering again.

The brake shafts are originally graphite impregnated woven cloth. They we made round to allow for the mounts to flex and not bind the shafts. They should not be pegged in with a grease fitting. The grease can also get hard binding the shaft and it attracts dirt. All things Ford intentionally got away from by using the fabric bushing. Now today guys are putting in brass bushings and they need lubrication. The brass has no grooves for proper distribution of the grease.

The driveshaft grease is likely more to hold the oil that leaks out the rear of the ****** close to the U joint. This oil is what lubricates the rest during operation, or at least contributes quite a bit.

Keep in mind the A went a lot of miles and never needed the grease fittings you think they need today. You are not putting anywhere the miles on the car like when they were new. No one seems to have a problem with any of those parts wearing out after a restoration. So you are likely just fixing lots of none problems. It is best to spend your time making sure you properly restore the parts to factory. Then worry more about when you are going driving next with your car cause it just keeps running with no problems.
 
See most are not putting as many miles on there cars as when they were new, I do I drove mine as my only means of trasportation for 4 years 150+ miles a day. And when she's back to 100% I plan on doing so again so anything I can add grease fittings to I want to. My a has been out driving around in blizzards, hurricanes you name it, she got me out of the shore when sandy hit with a piece of rubber dryer hose on the zenith as a snorkel.
 
I like your idea of adding grease fittings to areas that could use a little grease. Helps keep moister at bay also.

I have also changed out most of the grease fittings to more modern Zerk fittings and add a "dust" cover to keep them clean. https://www.mcmaster.com/#zerk-grease-fittings/=17es08q

McMaster-Carr has numerous grease fittings and tools for installing. Also they have some "self tapping" fittings for holes that need some help.
 
1928Pickuppain said:
See most are not putting as many miles on there cars as when they were new, I do I drove mine as my only means of trasportation for 4 years 150+ miles a day. And when she's back to 100% I plan on doing so again so anything I can add grease fittings to I want to. My a has been out driving around in blizzards, hurricanes you name it, she got me out of the shore when sandy hit with a piece of rubber dryer hose on the zenith as a snorkel.
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So in the 4 years you drove everyday did any of those parts wear because they were not greased?

So you drove in the winter on really cold days. Worse yet, grease in sub zero temps on the brake bushings. Nothing like no brakes cause the grease is so stiff.

Just thinking out loud, your car do with as you please.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
So you drove in the winter on really cold days. Worse yet, grease in sub zero temps on the brake bushings. Nothing like no brakes cause the grease is so stiff.

Just thinking out loud, your car do with as you please.
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I'm guessing it would depend on what type of grease... :p:p
 
One area I think Henry did overlook for greasing is the E-brake shafts on the rear wheels. Many owners don't use the E-brake when parking and the shafts can go for years without moving. Quite often you find E-brake carriers with the shaft frozen in the tunnel. Trying to remove it can cause the tunnel swaging to break loose from the carrier.

Attached article appeared in the Victoria Bustle a few years ago. Installing grease fittings on the ends of the two E-brake shafts is not difficult, best accomplished during a brake job.

Tom Endy
 

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Synchro909 said:
Beg to differ. We have to use gudgeon bushes for the pedals. 1" diameter shaft. Just a couple more of a very long list of things NOT available RHD.
Click to expand...

I was talking cross shafts, not brake and clutch. I actually have grease fittings on those. Sorry I wasnt clear.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Trying to out do Fords engineering again.

The brake shafts are originally graphite impregnated woven cloth. They we made round to allow for the mounts to flex and not bind the shafts. They should not be pegged in with a grease fitting. The grease can also get hard binding the shaft and it attracts dirt. All things Ford intentionally got away from by using the fabric bushing. Now today guys are putting in brass bushings and they need lubrication. The brass has no grooves for proper distribution of the grease.

The driveshaft grease is likely more to hold the oil that leaks out the rear of the ****** close to the U joint. This oil is what lubricates the rest during operation, or at least contributes quite a bit.

Keep in mind the A went a lot of miles and never needed the grease fittings you think they need today. You are not putting anywhere the miles on the car like when they were new. No one seems to have a problem with any of those parts wearing out after a restoration. So you are likely just fixing lots of none problems. It is best to spend your time making sure you properly restore the parts to factory. Then worry more about when you are going driving next with your car cause it just keeps running with no problems.
Click to expand...

I always have trouble understanding why people think that nothing could be better than the way Henry did it. He built things to a price. He did it well but to say that everything he did could not be improved upon makes no sense to me. The congested layout on the RHS of the engine for example is quite poor.
I drive the wheels off my Phaeton and want it to last as long as I can. Even now, if I could find one, I'd replace the bell housing. The bolts that hold the A frame ball coupling are VERY sloppy. I think I'll have to machine the holes out and fabricate something new.
 
I've made spacers to fit the bellhousing bolt pockets, and these are just long enough to make up for the worn away cast iron.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I've made spacers to fit the bellhousing bolt pockets, and these are just long enough to make up for the worn away cast iron.
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I did that already but it needs attention again. This time, I think I'll bore out the bolt holes and put a sleeve in them bringing the top up to the correct height at the same time.
 
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