adding front springs finally-check me

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Hi All,

I am going to try and install the front springs on Tuesday. So please check my procedures and let me know if I missed anything.

1) Install the spindle on the upper control arm
2) compress spring
3) Install spring in the frame-rubber frame/spring cap is already in
4) raise lower control arm and orientate the spring so the last coil sits in the arm correctly
5) bolt lower arm to spindle
6) tighten both arms down-release spring compressor
7) All doing this very quickly and safely

Mike
 
What type of compressor are you using, and ...

Never get in a hurry with coil springs. One can knock you across the room and permanently alter your dental structure.
 
The local Napa has one of the screw type for rent. It has the little flipper type arms. And yes not going to do this fast. Just safely and with a purpose as we say in the military. I just don’t like dealing with compressed springs.

Mike
 
Be careful here and make sure you have the END of the bottom coil of the spring positioned so that that end will fit into the recess of the lower control arm. You will not ba able to rotate the spring once the spring compressor is tightened nor after the installation is complete. And be sure to get the springs on BOTH sides done this way or you will have a slightly un-even ride that there is no cure for (except to rotate those springs into the recesses properly so that they are even on both sides).
Don't forget to install the big round rubber insulator on top of the spring before shoving it up inside the frame.
 
Don't know what springs you're using but I bought new Eaton springs for the front of my '54 Ranch Wagon. The springs had a white paint mark on one end to indicate which end was up. Unfortunately I didn't find this out until after I installed them. Had to remove them and and reinstall them with the correct orientation.
 
Just a suggestion: Letting people know what kind of car you're working on really helps. I know your list says '57 wagon, but sometimes people posting questions can be working on cars other than their own.

Anyway, my view is that if the springs need replacing, then it might be time to replace the control arm shafts and bushings, as well as the ball joints, too. Removing and installing coil springs is enough of a physical job (for me, anyway) that addressing as many repairs that require spring removal is a good idea while they're off. Don't know if that includes ball joints on a '57 Ford, but the springs had to be off to remove the upper ball joints on my '65 Thunderbird.


Be careful on the spring compressors. If you're cautious and work slow, using them isn't the Russian Roulette that some people imply it is, but getting and keeping the shaft as centered as you can, checking contact points for slippage and cranking the wrench from a relatively safe vantage point are all good ideas.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tips. I called Eaton springs as that is who I am using and they don’t do the flat top springs anymore. They are regular round coils and they just make it so they can go in either way. But I saw the lower arm and how a coil has to go in the indent. I Already rebuilt the front end with either all new parts or NOS parts.
Thanks and I will take pics.

Mike
 
If you are going to raise the lower A arm with a floor jack, I recommend you get a heavy chain and before pushing the spring up wrap the chain around the frame and a coil or two as insurance. This is what I did when I removed and replaced the springs in my 54 Victoria and 56 Bird.
 
I compressed the original coils to about 13-14” to remove them. So I am guessing that is what I will have to compress them to get them in. Raise the lower arm with a jack and position the coil in the arm. Attach the spindle and then release the coils. All done with a sense of urgency.

Mike
 
Paul2748-there is no engine in the car right now just a dead ******. So I will jack the arm up just to seat things. Wish me luck tomorrow.
 
With no engine you may have to add some weight to the car to compress the springs using the weight of the car. This is why I purchased the OTC spring compressor. It fits good and allows for compression of the spring with no worries of spring blow out. It has to have a hole in the A-arm for the shock absorber in order to fit inside the spring but it works on a lot of old Fords and even a fair amount of new ones.
 
They are finally in!!!! Now please tell me I did this correctly as don’t want to redo this. Thanks for all of the help.

Mike
 

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