Adding a second fuse

Fred said:
I have looked several times over in the Restoration Guidelines, J/S Area #2 & I cant find anything on FUSES or CIRCUIT BREAKERS in a Model A Electrical System ??.
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not everybody builds their cars to the J/S. JMO
 
Picture from Ralph Boling's car.
 

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Here's my lighting fuse, an in-line, sort-of-waterproof, blade style, seen down near the bottom of the picture sticking out of the not-too-authentic wiring cover. The green wire is to the alternator exciter lug. The yellow goes to the junction box and ultimately relies on the more-common fuse on the starter.


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Steve
 
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im sold on circuit breakers . they come in most sizes like a fuse . the advantage i like is .... if it shuts thing down , it will reset so you can find the problem ................ steve
 
CarlG said:
Does anyone have a wiring diagram as to how this is accomplished? I just don't want to try and re-invent the wheel!
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I'm sorry but I don't have one. One guy with a Fordor brought the Positive wire (He changed to 12v Neg ground) up under the front seat. Then he took wires from the fuse block and brought one to the horn, the light, the ignition.

It may be time consumng but not hard and in my opinion not really necessary.
 
Well I found the problem The stop switch was pulled out of the unit which makes sense as thats when the car died on me when I came to a stop. I bought a new switch from snyders and went to install it today and found that it does not mount on my ******. The stwitch that is there seems to have been modified to fit. I have no idea why. Now I wonder what the ****** is that I have since the bolt spacing seems to be wider than what the stop switch has. I also mounted the 20amp fuse off the alternator to the steering hub and it worked perfect as I had it blow. I did put a 30amp on the starter and no problems there.

Here are som pics of the ******, the stop switch and the fuse. Can someone tell why this swtich would not mount (the new one)?

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Perhaps it is a low quality reproduction switch that is not manufactured to the correct dimensions. I remember I had one of them once. When I stepped hard on the brakes, the actuating rod pulled so far out of the body of the switch that it shorted everything out inside the switch. That blew the fuse and the engine died. I rigged up a stiff spring to pull the actuator on the switch, instead of a solid link. Once the switch bottomed out, the brake pedal could go further down and the spring stretched a bit.
 
the switch I bought from Snyders seems to be the same as the one that was on the car. The one on the car seem to have had the mounting holes cut off and then rivited to another plate. WHy?? no idea other than it does not match the ****** holes which kinda makes me question what ****** do I have.

As for pulling out of the stop switch and shorting the whole car, thats what happened to me. I do have it mounted back in the car now and switch the old guts out of the with the new one I bought and used the old pull pin as it was a little longer and it seems fine. I will be adjusting the brakes later today to make sure I dont pull it out again.
 
badbones said:
the switch I bought from Snyders seems to be the same as the one that was on the car. The one on the car seem to have had the mounting holes cut off and then rivited to another plate. WHy?? no idea other than it does not match the ****** holes which kinda makes me question what ****** do I have.

As for pulling out of the stop switch and shorting the whole car, thats what happened to me. I do have it mounted back in the car now and switch the old guts out of the with the new one I bought and used the old pull pin as it was a little longer and it seems fine. I will be adjusting the brakes later today to make sure I dont pull it out again.
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Mercy! 31 posts and no one got it right! Your stop light switch does not mount properly because you do not have a Model A transmission. Thanks for the thread, it was entertaining.
Rainmaker Ron
 
REALLY???

What transmission is it that I have. Obviously I am new to this car and had no idea. I would like to know what I have for future issues if they arise. Also what issues should I expect if any?

Or should I start a new thread about this?
 
How many forward speeds do you have? The Ford F-150 4 speed with overdrive 4th was a common change made when changing to a later ******.
 
Its an "H" pattern shifting with 3 forward gears. I started another thread and someone thinks it a '39 ****** so im looking into that. I wish I could talk to the man that estored the car in '95 but hes no longer with us so I will have to find these things out as they come
 
Well the ****** has been identified as a 81A-7222 , Now im trying to find out more on this model and what the advantages and disavantages are.
 
badbones said:
Well the ****** has been identified as a 81A-7222 , Now im trying to find out more on this model and what the advantages and disavantages are.
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It probably just has a better second gear ratio and maybe a higher speed first gear and probably has syncro's in second and third. Third gear ratio would remain the same, as it's straight through.
 
My homemade fuse block has been in service for over 35 years and have never blown a fuse except when I shorted out something while working on the car. If I were to do it again I would use a modern blade type fuse block.
Bruce Davis a400usa@nccn.net
 
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