Add thermostat???

Banky

Senior Member
Hi all,

So I want to do some cold weather driving in my 30. Pretty much all stock.

How are the original 4-bangers in cold/cool weather?

Has anyone added a thermostat? If so, how? I'd assume at the neck on the block, but there's no grove for it.

Thanks,
Banky

P.S. I'm all for keeping these A's original, but I want to increase drivability as much as possible.
 
The vendors sell a thermostat that is welded in to a tube. The tube & thermostat go in the upper radiator hose. You can get them in 160 & 180 degrees. They work well.

There is also an vendor that makes an replacement for the neck that bolts to the head. The thermostat goes in the adapter.

thermostat_housing_angled.jpg Their website is: http://vintageprecision.com/products/thermostat_housing/index.html
 
Lots of info here about thermostats. Do a search and you'll probably find more than you want to know.
 
Partly cover/block the radiator. Watch the motometer. Open it up some if it starts running too hot.
 
I've been using the upper=hose 160* F stat for a year now ( several thousand miles of touring)... runs fine... warms-up quickly and still did not overheat in the hot summer.



It is the cheapest and easiest way to get a thermostat in the Model A.

Additional info:

I added an under-dash mounted mechanical temp gauge in May of 2010 ( temp sensor in the water outlet on top of the head ) , and come fall of that year, I noticed the engine ran really cool - took 1/2 hour of driving to break 140* F. This was when I decided to add the 160* stat.
 
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I stuck an old 160 in hose tstat in mine years ago, now the motormeter only reads radiator temp ---it will still warn of overheating, I can run a leaner mixture, gained a couple of mpg, no negatives.
 
Most engines will run more efficiently when operated at CONSTANT optimal operating temperature. And, the opposite is true about an engine that runs cold. So, it makes sense to run a thermostat. The question is ...what temp thermostat. In my opinion, a 180 will benefit an engine most year round. However, if your engine is prone to running hot from rust accumulation/sludge/plugged radiator,etc.. mabe best not to run one. A 160 is available also from vendors.
 
I run 180 all winter, but remove it in the summer. In South Georgia we need all the water flow we can get. Helps the manifold heater work sooner after startup.

You might want to add a stainless strap clamp on the outside of the hose at each end of the thermostat to keep it steady inside the hose. It will leave marks on the hose when you remove the clamps.
 
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I just drill two 1/8" holes in an ordinary thermostat, then slip it into the hose and push the barbed part of a plastic fitting down the hose to hold the thermostat in place. The fitting costs less than a buck and I hacksaw off the barbed part to use. You want the stat as close to the head as possible. With the barbed fitting, no extra hose clamp is needed. On my 28 Phaeton I used a two inch long piece of radiator hose that fits tight inside the top hose to hold the thermostat in place. Either way works fine and neither one needs any extra clamps.

BTW, be sure to install the stat the right way. The wax pellet faces the engine.
 
Here's the vintage way of doing it. This one has the heater option. I have seen them with an adjusting knob to change the temperature


thermostat.jpg
 
It is usually pretty warm where I live. It hasn't got cold enough to kill all of the flowers here yet. I have never felt the need for a thermostat and really didn't want to run the risk of a thermostat sticking in the closed position and causing more work and problems. With this damn sorry ethanol enriched gas, a thermostat may be a good idea!!!
 
It is usually pretty warm where I live. It hasn't got cold enough to kill all of the flowers here yet. I have never felt the need for a thermostat and really didn't want to run the risk of a thermostat sticking in the closed position and causing more work and problems. With this damn sorry ethanol enriched gas, a thermostat may be a good idea!!!

Not to quibble, but I would replace "ethanol enriched gas" with "ethanol adulterated gas".
 
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