Acoustishield kit from QuietRide Solutions

J

JayJay

Well-known member
Has anyone recently used the complete body sound/thermal insulation kit from Quiet Ride Solutions? Any comments? I did some searching and found some older posts.

I'm building my '30 Town Sedan and was going to do my own insulation using sheet DynaMat and a thermal insulator yet to be named. But it seems like a pre-made kit, although a bit pricey, might save me some grief. The instructions seem thorough and indicate that they seem to have really thought this thing through.

I'm already committed to their firewall insulator for the car. This would be for the rest of the car from the cowls back and up.

Thanks for the input.
 
Not sure if it is the same brand, but my car came with that in the floor. It seems to help with the temperature control but my car is still noisy. If you decide to go that route, put it everywhere: doors, floor, roof, walls, etc. The engine compartment on my boat has something similar and it helped with the heat. A sheet of lead embedded between layers of foam rubber will cut down the noise quite a bit. It doesn't look like this stuff has the lead sheet. Lining the inside of the skin of the doors will provide a more solid sound and feel when shutting the doors.
 
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I used a different brand of sound deadening on the inside of the body panels when I redid my interior and it made a great difference. I forget what brand it was. Much quieter but not like a new car. I added some to the floor wood as well which also helped.
I did not use the insulator on the firewall and have wondered how that works.
I looked up the order and I used Vibro Solutions 2mm thick damping mat. I covered pretty much every square inch I could. You must remove the stuff that Ford put in the doors that looks like squished cow patties.
 
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Hello, I put the firewall insulation on my car , it’s like a molded plastic with matting on back , don’t know how well it works, still restoring car . I personally like the tinny sound of the doors when you close them .On a 31 with indented firewall had to move gas tank out so it could fit without cutting.
 
The attachment is an article describing what I did to reduce noise in my Model A.
 

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Bob Bidonde said:
The attachment is an article describing what I did to reduce noise in my Model A.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob. That’s pretty much the way the Quiet Ride kit installs, except that they use Dynamat instead of roofing starter, and likey a different foil/insulation product.
 
I'm in the middle of installing the complete Quiet Ride kits in my 31, with the firewall insulator and cowl insulation complete so far...did notice an improvement from that area of my car. Working on the sides and rumble area now. I am anticipating overall improvement, but don't expect it to reach the level of quiet that a new car has. Main improvement seems to be no more "tinny" sounds...with noise more muffled.
 
clifforddward said:
I'm in the middle of installing the complete Quiet Ride kits in my 31, with the firewall insulator and cowl insulation complete so far...did notice an improvement from that area of my car. Working on the sides and rumble area now. I am anticipating overall improvement, but don't expect it to reach the level of quiet that a new car has. Main improvement seems to be no more "tinny" sounds...with noise more muffled.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Cliff, exactly the feedback I was looking for. This is for your cabriolet, right? Does the QR kit add any insulation to the top (I would not expect so)?
 
I installed the firewall insulator while the engine was out. I did not need to remove the fuel tank. I laid the insulator on the cardboard box it was shipped in, traced the outline, and cut it out. Then I messed around with the cardboard template which weighs is easier for one person to handle. Result: Much less heat being radiated (conducted?). No longer feel like I’m being roasted. I still get heated air swirling around, but i haven’t figured out where it’s coming from. It is a roadster, after all.
 
I painted the underside of the floorboards on my Tudor sedan with Scorpion heat and noise reducer. It is a latex paint product, so it doesn't add any bulky insulation padding etc.. I only did the floorboards as my wife was complaining of hot feet. I have used their products and was impressed. I do not work for them, just sharing my experience.
My problem with the acoustishield type kit are the bulkiness and the weight.
 
wyankee said:
I painted the underside of the floorboards on my Tudor sedan with Scorpion heat and noise reducer. It is a latex paint product, so it doesn't add any bulky insulation padding etc.. I only did the floorboards as my wife was complaining of hot feet. I have used their products and was impressed. I do not work for them, just sharing my experience.
My problem with the acoustishield type kit are the bulkiness and the weight.
Click to expand...

That’s a great solution for the floor boards. Thanks for the tip. I was also concerned about adding bulky insulation to the floor boards.

David Serrano
 
David in San Antonio said:
I installed the firewall insulator while the engine was out. I did not need to remove the fuel tank. I laid the insulator on the cardboard box it was shipped in, traced the outline, and cut it out. Then I messed around with the cardboard template which weighs is easier for one person to handle. Result: Much less heat being radiated (conducted?). No longer feel like I’m being roasted. I still get heated air swirling around, but i haven’t figured out where it’s coming from. It is a roadster, after all.
Click to expand...

There are 2 ways for heat to get into your passenger compartment: 1) hot air blowing in from under the hood; 2) heat conduction through all the metal surfaces (firewall, etc) from the hot engine compartment and under the car.

Seal up holes and gaps to reduce #1. Apply insulation to reduce #2.

On a Roadster (and Phaeton), look at the places where the firewall and upper floorboard meet the cowl on each side. There is a gap. You have to remove the kick panel to see down in there. Put a bright light under the hood and then look from inside the car for where the light is showing.

Hot air comes from the engine compartment up into that area, and then in behind the kick panels. Then it swirls around your feet and legs.

Seal up that gap from inside and then put the kick panels back on. It makes a big difference.
 
Bruce of MN said:
What do you recommend to seal the gap?
Click to expand...

I used foam backer rod, available in several thicknesses at any hardware store. Others have used spray foam, but that is permanent and can be quite messy. And this applies to all cabs, not just open cars. There are spaces at the bottom of the cowl panels as well, but be careful with the wire harness that runs through this space on the drivers side.
 
Jim/GA said:
There are 2 ways for heat to get into your passenger compartment: 1) hot air blowing in from under the hood; 2) heat conduction through all the metal surfaces (firewall, etc) from the hot engine compartment and under the car.

Seal up holes and gaps to reduce #1. Apply insulation to reduce #2.

On a Roadster (and Phaeton), look at the places where the firewall and upper floorboard meet the cowl on each side. There is a gap.
Click to expand...

Don't all Model As have that gap, my Town Sedan does/did. I filled it.

JayJay said:
I used foam backer rod, available in several thicknesses at any hardware store.
Click to expand...

JayJay, I like the Foam Backer Rod idea. What diameter did you use?
 
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JayJay said:
I used foam backer rod, available in several thicknesses at any hardware store. Others have used spray foam, but that is permanent and can be quite messy. And this applies to all cabs, not just open cars. There are spaces at the bottom of the cowl panels as well, but be careful with the wire harness that runs through this space on the drivers side.
Click to expand...

I asked Google about foam backer rod and it indicated that it contains open cell foam:

” . . . Open-cell foam allows air to pass through the backer rod, which allows the sealant to cure faster. It will absorb water, so it should primarily be used indoor.”

Would this cause a problem when it rains or when you wash the car?

David Serrano
 
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