Accidental Ignition "ON"

Bob Bidonde

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
Lesson learned the hard way. If you accidentally leave the ignition "ON" for a few hours and the points were closed, the ignition coil will fail from overheating.
 
No doubt a great tip. Every once in a while you see this reported by a member. Because of this is important we double check this after we finish driving, just like we check that the fuel is turn off. Thanks for sharing.
 
With my original pop-out switch accompanied with an installed original Model B distributor on my 1930 Town Sedan, if I leave my switch on overnight, my battery dies ..... coil & points always remain OK.

When I had a toggle pull switch in lieu of a keyed switch 59 years ago on my 1930 coupe, with an original Model A distributor, if I left my switch on ... same thing ........ my battery would die overnight and coil & points remained OK.
 
The one time I had to use a charger on my car was when I forgot to push the popout---3 months later I find out---late for a show, my charger is a 3 amp 6V only charger, after 5 min I hand cranked it---started on the first pull, the coil is a "Ricks" show coil from the 80s, a normal coil with a tin cover, got a real strong spark, and is still working 20 years after the "cooking"

The generator charged up the stone dead Optima enough to start the car after a 30 min drive and went another 10 years without any charging other than driving-----still using the same points too---so I got away with it that time with just a dead battery
 
Always a good idea to check the ammeter each time you exit the car.

Besides leaving the key on, the brake light switch might be stuck on, or the lights turned on.
 
Another good reason to have and use a battery cut-off switch...although both it and the ignition switch could be forgotten!
 
X2. I know some folks are not keen on a master disconnect, but i put one in one due to memory and two to avoid an accidental electrical fire.
To each is own I guess.
 
What Tom said. I used to have a cutout that would stick every now and then...something about them getting some residual magnetism or what not. Just look at your ampmeter before you get out of the car. Until I changed out the cutout, just a thunk on it would get it unstuck!
Brian W.
 
I have a Master Cutout switch installed and find it so useful when working on the car in addition to the added security provided when parking over night or for an extended period.
 
I had my car home less than a week. Left the switch on. The coil was ruined and the hot oil from it ran down onto the terminal box and lid and they were destroyed as well.

The beginning of the learning curve!
 
The oddball thing with our 31 Tudor is that the ignition shuts itself "OFF". Driving along . . . happy as a clam . . . and suddenly the Model A stops running . . . Blonk!

As it turns out, the dash ignition switch is apparently worn, an old cheapoid junk repro and/or both.. There is not much resistance to the key barrel turning deal. Go around a corner and the heavy metal FORD script fob hanging on the key ring sways to the left thereby shutting off the ignition. If you sneeze, the car engine dies. What next? Arrgghhhh! Now how totally nutty is that scenario?

Question is . . . can I purchase a simple basic ignition switch for this A Model Ford? Want something that mounts easily. Have no interest in a pop out thing and in all these decades still have no idea why or what those things do.

And yes . . an inexpensive master cut-out switch sounds like a smart idea. Saw one advertised on Ebay the other day for about twelve bucks. Should get one of those too.
 
The same exact thing happened with my cheap repro ignition switch. I redid the switch to make it better, but will sometime install my original popout.
 
heavy metal FORD script fob hanging on the key ring sways to the left thereby shutting off the ignition. If you sneeze, the car engine dies. What next? Arrgghhhh! Now how totally nutty is that
First off, get rid of the fob. They are bad for ANY ignition switch. Secondly, installing a new switch is not really that big of a job. Call one of the parts houses and ask them their opinion on a good quality switch.
 
Use caution when installing a "NEW" ignition switch. Be sure that the terminals don't contact the fuel tank; some switches seem to be a bit too long.
 
The only time I have left the ignition switch on in my Town Sedan I got 'Lucky' and the points were in the open position. I have since installed a master S/O Switch.

In my '55 Ranchwagon I was not so lucky. I left the ignition switch in the 'on' position for ~5 minutes while working on an unrelated electrical problem.and fried the Pertronix Module. :eek: I now have a Pertronix III in the '55 that Pertronix reportedly fixed that problem with.

Be aware if you have a Pertronix I in your car. Expensive mistake.
 
First off, get rid of the fob
Click to expand...

Get rid of the nine and a half pound Ford script fob giving to me by dearly departed Aunt Hortense? Never! She even carried that fob as a lucky charm when with the Marines hitting the beaches at Iwo back in 45'.
 
Capt Quahog said:
And yes . . an inexpensive master cut-out switch sounds like a smart idea. Saw one advertised on Ebay the other day for about twelve bucks. Should get one of those too.
Click to expand...

Don't go too cheap on the Master Cut-out Switch. It may turn itself off or worse...:p:p
 
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