Accelerator issue - alignment with floorboard

[Mark from Indy]

I'm fairly new at Model A's , mine being my first. I made new floorboards for it and the top hole for the accelerator rod didn't line up to the specs. The previous owner/restorer I noticed solved that issue by just whittling out the hole bigger. However as one of my goals was to have less hillbilly airconditioning, I wanted to see why it didn't align. I notice I can push the rod by the firewall over toward the passenger side and it aligns. As it is now the lower bend of the rod actually hits one of the bell housing bolt heads, until I move it over. I looked at the assembly itself and see the "stop" on the rod on the drivers side I can push it too, but nothing evident to actually pin it there. It has to rotate so I suspect something like that on the two posts as it were they rod goes through. Its not evident that there are screws or pins although there are holes in the top of the two "posts". I will attach some pics to show the drivers side that I see and the rod from inside the cab. Can anyone help as to what may be missing, unscrewed, or broken here? It looks to be a real beyatch to get to to take it out if that's what's needed. Thanks for answering a newbie question!

Like the one poster said - another Mushroom job for me

Mark

 

[Aok]

The holes on top are for oil. There should be a spring on the passenger side

 

[Mark from Indy]

Yes - there is a spring, and is what is helping to push the assembly toward the drivers side.

 

[d.j. moordigian]

Mark,

I haven't taken any of the later style throttle assembles apart, but you need
to take yours out of the car....it could be bent!
I can't tell if it has the correct spring.
It's only 2 bolts to remove plus the toe kick(top of the floor board).

Also look at this post.... Second version of the throttle assembly (

1 2 3 4 view all)

 

[Mark from Indy]

Thanks for the tip D.J.

After staring at it some more, and looking at the link you provided as well as

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/throttlecontrols.htm

as well as courtesy of Snyder's

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/uploads/A9737Instructions-10290.pdf

I think the spring is not installed right per these last directions. If you look at the last pic I posted you can see the spring snaked down the arm farther than any of the links views. I will take the assembly out tomorrow and try to do as per the Andrews directions. Hopefully the spring hasn't , well, sprung too much ... It looks correct to the pictures, the long leg of the spring is a little bent out more than those. Will post a followup

I can paint the thing at least to get it more correct that way - lol

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

The part of the rod that fits through the hole in the wood should have an arc, so it follows the hole center and doesn't scrape the wood. It looks flat in your picture.

 

[Mark from Indy]

Thank D.J. for the link.

After staring at the assembly for a while and also looking at this link

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/throttlecontrols.htm

as well as thanks to Snyders this article about the spring

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/uploads/A9737Instructions-10290.pdf

I think the spring has - sprung - and/or is not installed correctly. I was able to remove it and the long arm is perhaps pulled out slightly more that the photo of the new.

If you look at the last pic I sent the spring has snaked down the rod more than is indicated by the drawings and photos in the articles. Thinking on this, that may be must be why there is no pressure toward the drivers side to keep the rod assembly at its stop

Since the job is easier than I envisioned to take it off, I will attempt that tonight and reinstall as per the Andrews article.

Tom, I have nothing to go on as far as the correct geometry of the rod, but while I have it out I will see if I can figure that out.

At least I can paint the thing to make it more a original looking! lol

 

[wrndln]

I have a couple of original floorboards and both show where someone or wear enlarged the hole for the throttle assembly. I think that Ford slightly misjudged the hole size or position when they made the drawing. I found that when I made new floorboards for my 28 coupe, the hole was slightly off and I had to enlarge it a little to keep it from rubbing on the wood when the throttle was moved back and forth.
Rusty Nelson

 

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Mark, this is not as hard as you might think. Keep a watch out for the two "horseshoe" shaped shims between the clutch housing and engine block. Sometimes they stay put, and other times slip out. Theses are ness. for transmission alignment. Take the linkage off and unscrew the two mounting bolts. (Obviously the toe board must be removed as well) Compress the accelerator down toward the bracket and pull the assembly down and out from behind the firewall. Once you have it out, put it in a vice and have a good long look at it. If not straight it can easily be bent back to where it should be. (cold bend, slow)The return spring can be demounted and cleaned up, the top rod cleaned and oiled up for smooth operation. With a little trial and error the accelerator foot rod can be bent to accomodate the hole without rubbing the board, and not hitting the bell housing bolt. Just remember to compress it before install and removal as it makes it easier.
Good luck!

 

[Mark from Indy]

Thanks for the tips - after staring at it for a while and looking at the drawings on the fordgarage site and the instructions for the spring on Snyder's I think the spring is - well - sprung. If you look at my last pic the spring has snaked its way down the arm more than the illustrations show. I think that is preventing the side pressure to hold it against the stop on the drivers side

I'll pull it out tonight and redo the spring and see if that helps. I can even paint it now to make it more original lol

Mark

 

[Big John]

they tend to bent thru the years... do some fine tuning and you will be fine...john

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a picture of my 1928 linkage showing the slight arc where the rod goes through the floorboard.

 

[figment]

I have bent the part that goes thru the hole in the floorboard with it in the car. Just remove the toe board and use a box end wrench and bend it just a little then try the toe board until it lines up good. You have to remove the accelerator cap first.

 

[Mark from Indy]

Thanks for all the suggestions and tips. I thought I would followup with some picture showing what I described. Farrell was right taking it off was nothing at all - my visual look at it made it harder than it was - Oh that all the things I have done on this and all cars was this easy - lol
Taking off the spring and moving the rod to its designed spot shows a nicely cleared spot on the rod from who knows how long. You can also see the way the accel arm has been bent here and there out of spec. Looking at the throttle linkage link diagrams at fordgarage it clearly has been shall we say farm fixed in its life. You can compare and see how it has been bent.
As Tom noted the bend needed has been removed.
The spring is a problem and will just have to be replaced at the next Snyder's order. After a while of futzing with it and a few "words of encouragement" I got it bent enough to stay I hope for a bit. Now it actual does what it is supposed to do.
Bending the accel arm should not be a problem and I will just sloowly work it back. The carb side arm has a definite wiggle, and I am not sure I'll even tackle it - it may already be too work hardened to take much.

Hope this help someone else also!

Thanks!

Mark

 

[al's28/33]

There is an old thread I posted on this same issue. It takes lots of trial and error to re-install, adjust, re-adjust and remove re-install again to make sure your movement is good and true. Check the hand lever too, making certain nothing gets stopped on the firewall or back of block and above all else don't bend anything to abrasively you might break it!