AA Frame 157" straightening

S

Scott Owens

Senior Member
I have started a '30 AA restoration. The frame on the truck is straight, but is pitted. I purchased a donor chassis for parts and the rails are as smooth as new, but the front horns are bent. Does anyone have any input on the difficulty or expense of straightening the smooth frame out to use?
 
If the horns on your pitted frame are good maybe you would be better off using them to replace the bent ones.
 
Perhaps you could take it to a Blacksmith. Put the "horn" end over the furnace until red hot and then quickly move it to an anvil and pound on it. Repeat until straight.

If the horns are extremely bent, it may be easier to cut the straight ones off and weld to the good rails.

You could also take it to an Automotive or Truck Frame shop and let them work on it.

If the pitting isn't extreme on the straight frame, fill the pits with MIG welding and grind away until smooth.

Those are my suggestions.
May your results be good. Let us know how it goes.
 
Copied from a post I made about 6 months ago-

I had an accident about 30 years ago, bent a left horn in 20° and down about 3 inches. At the time a good friend well versed in frame work advised me to block the frame from a garage ceiling joist with a stout piece of lumber and bend the frame horn cold. We worked the bent horn up with a floor jack and some brute force and used heat later to smooth out the ripples. I'm not saying it must be worked cold, only that it worked for me very well.
 
Hi Scott,

Humble Opinion:

1. First assumption is: Regardless of your past experience with metal wok, you would "personally" like to try straightening the smooth frame.

2. Second assumption is: You would like to correctly do the work "yourself" and achieve near original precision first time around.

3. It can be done.

FWIW:

A. First suggestion: Before beginning any big hammer work, hydraulic press work, cutting/welding, or applying extreme force, suggest:

(1) From your "Bent frame", develop an "Existing Plan A" with drawings and/or cut-out cardboard patterns illustrating the incorrect "Bent Frame" with damaged conditions and incorrect dimensions; and,

(2) From your "Straight Frame", develop a "New Plan B" with drawings and/or cut-out cardboard patterns illustrating the "Straight Frame", without damaged conditions and with exact correct dimensions.

(3) After comparing "Existing Plan A" to "New Plan B" you can not only see "what" has to be corrected; but "where" it has to be corrected; and also get a better idea of "how" to best correct it properly the first time around.

(4) Complete failure and a trip to the dump is always guaranteed without analysis and
carefully planning one's intricate detailed work.

Hope this helps you to make correct decisions ...... not that difficult.
 
I have sent a message to Admin. I am getting a message, "Unable to upload. A security token is missing". Any suggestions?
 
I don't know what the token thing is, but since I set my 4.1 megapixel camera on medium jpeg resolution I can download the pictures to my computer, then make sure my post is in the "advanced" mode, and I go down to "Manage Attachments" then click on the picture in my computer, and click on "upload attachments" and the thumbnail will post OK.
 
I have decided to replace the front of this chassis with the front from the original chassis. I think from about 2 inches in front of engine mounts.
 
Man, that sucker sure took a severe hit. Too bad a good frame isn't close by. A guy near me cut up a good AA frame 5 years ago and hauled it in for scrap. He claimed no one would want a truck frame. I would have saved it.
 
Hi Scot,

FWIW:

1. With the frame stresses endured after such an accident, one thing worth checking in final setup is the frame's diagonal measurements from corner to corner of the four (4) corners of the frame.

2. Will the rear axle be parallel to the front axle after completion such that the rear wheels follow the tracks of the front wheels and not apply stress on wheel bearings and wear tires rapidly ?

3. Also, new or good used fenders, hood, doors, body parts, and sheet metal will not fit very accurately on a frame is shaped like a parallelogram.
 
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Thank you for that tip. I will check that before making the decision of using. Rust pits are the only issue with the original frame. I could always skim all surfaces with filler. This is for a good, nice driver anyway. AND this truck will be used on his farm.
 
I agree with Tom. From the picture I would bet the "tweek" to the frame goes farther back than the engine mounts.
 
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