A to B
- Thread starter Bill Cal.
- Start date
midgetracer
Well-known member
If you use the B flywheel housing and B style rear float a motor mounts it will bolt in place, but you will need an adapter to mount the A wishbone. So to answer your question, No it will not bolt right up.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Bill,
The first thing you should do is to put your general location, the guy around the corner may have one you could look at. I assume you are using a 1932 Model B, not the 1933-34 Model B. I did this with my '31 RDPU. I chose to keep the A transmission as it mounts the brake, clutch and wishbone. I used the Model A flywheel cover. You will need to remove the rear of the B oil pan (see photo). I left a strip of metal on the pan as I didn't want to remove the spot ends and risk a leak. I have been told you cannot remove the rear bearing to adjust the shims but haven't tried it yet. I think I would recommend using a Model A head to get rid of the 3 bolt water pump.
Charlie Stephens
The first thing you should do is to put your general location, the guy around the corner may have one you could look at. I assume you are using a 1932 Model B, not the 1933-34 Model B. I did this with my '31 RDPU. I chose to keep the A transmission as it mounts the brake, clutch and wishbone. I used the Model A flywheel cover. You will need to remove the rear of the B oil pan (see photo). I left a strip of metal on the pan as I didn't want to remove the spot ends and risk a leak. I have been told you cannot remove the rear bearing to adjust the shims but haven't tried it yet. I think I would recommend using a Model A head to get rid of the 3 bolt water pump.
Charlie Stephens
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DougVieyra
Well-known member
I LOVE that "Much Improved" 1932 Model B water-pump. Ignoring the minimial 'improvements' in the water jacket of the B head,and the improved effectiveness of the pump empellor, it is the MOUNTING of the B water-pump that makes me a great fan; for it removes the risk of breaking off the mounting tabs of the seperate "Goose Neck" required by the stock A pump .
- Doug Vieyra, Eureka, California
- Doug Vieyra, Eureka, California
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Help me out here. I thought the Model A wishbone mounted to the Model A transmission case which I assume he is going to retain. Am I missing something?
Charlie Stephens
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Jim Brierley
Well-known member
When bolting the A trans to a B engine, it includes the A bell housing. That's why you have to cut the back off the B pan.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I have Model B engines in both of my Model A's, and they have the following:
>Model A 6:1 hi-compression cylinder heads so I can use Model A water pumps and get some extra power. Model B water pumps are hard to find, they are extraordinarily expensive and pump shafts are difficult to find. The head gaskets are copper Model A items. The 2 additional coolant holes in the Model B block were left open;
>I use the Float-A-Motor front & rear engine mounts;
>The flywheel housing dust cover is notched to clear the Model B rear main bearing cap;
>On one Model A I modified a Model A oil pan to fit the Model B engine by enlarging the cutout for the rear main bearing cap, and dimpling the sides of the pan to clear the larger Model B connecting rods. On the other car I used a Model B oil pan by cutting-off its Model B flywheel housing;
>I use Model A distributors in both engines;
>Model A flywheels have been lightened by removing 13 lbs from each. Both cars have Ford V8 pressure plates with Model A clutch disks;
>Both cars have 12V alternators for extra power to spin the hi-compression motors;
>Both cars have modern starter drives to replace the stock Bendix units.
>Model A 6:1 hi-compression cylinder heads so I can use Model A water pumps and get some extra power. Model B water pumps are hard to find, they are extraordinarily expensive and pump shafts are difficult to find. The head gaskets are copper Model A items. The 2 additional coolant holes in the Model B block were left open;
>I use the Float-A-Motor front & rear engine mounts;
>The flywheel housing dust cover is notched to clear the Model B rear main bearing cap;
>On one Model A I modified a Model A oil pan to fit the Model B engine by enlarging the cutout for the rear main bearing cap, and dimpling the sides of the pan to clear the larger Model B connecting rods. On the other car I used a Model B oil pan by cutting-off its Model B flywheel housing;
>I use Model A distributors in both engines;
>Model A flywheels have been lightened by removing 13 lbs from each. Both cars have Ford V8 pressure plates with Model A clutch disks;
>Both cars have 12V alternators for extra power to spin the hi-compression motors;
>Both cars have modern starter drives to replace the stock Bendix units.
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rackops
Senior Member
Any particular reason you left the steam holes (coolant holes) open on the B block?
I have a B block and I'm converting the B head to an A head so I can use the A water pump, intake, etc. I'm done with having two sets of parts in my garage (B parts and A parts).
Last week, I went up to pick up my A block (for another car) from the engine rebuilder and he recommended I tap and seal the two steam holes in the B block when I replace the head. I never paid attention to them when I changed the head the first time, but sure enough...they are there. His thought was that the steam holes added extra risk for breaking the head gasket, and with an A head, it was better to seal them off.
Thoughts?
Dave
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Lay the Model A gasket (which you should be using with the A head) on top of the B block and see where the team holes are located. If it was me, I would plug them.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens