Yes, but at a cost. Recall earlier I mentioned that the horn wiring looked blackish and had apparently been overheated at some time in the past, possibly from some knucklehead running a 12volt battery through it. Well, testing the reconditioned horn rod with a 6volt battery connected yesterday, it worked for a couple seconds and then nothing. Kind of a burning electrical smell wafted up into my nostrils. RATS! Like almost everything else on this %&%#* car, even the horn is on its last legs. I'm afraid the horn needs to be rewired. I checked with guys who used to rewire them, but two are dead and I haven't heard back from the third guy.
I watched a video on how to re-wire a horn and I think I could do it - even with my limited electrical skills. I just need to find a source of #20 insulated wire. The label on the spool in the video gave EIS as the manufacturer. I checked their website, but it's hardly user friendly. Is this #20 a difficult wire to find? Would a company like Grainger's have it?
Another problem arose with the horn rod while testing the horn and functionality of my repairs/cleaning. Where the rod tube attaches to the light switch head underneath was a little wobbly when I pulled it out of the steering shaft (which had NO nut on it, by the way!). The tube let loose while I was testing the horn and separated from the switch body, dangling by the wire running through the center. I tried soldering it back, but no go. Has anyone else experienced this and how were you able to put the two pieces back together enough to withstand the lateral pressure exerted up on it when the light switch is activated?
Jeez, this is getting old!
Marshall