"A" model rear wheel bearing conversion.

O

Oldcarbearings

Senior Member
G'day,
From North Warrandyte,Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.Through one of your members (Arnold Chivers),
We've come up with a modern conversion to replace the origianl HYATT wound journal roller type.It's a metric conversion part number;NU1010,
Dimensions are: ID: 50 MM,
OD: 80MM,
W: 16MM.These SHOULD be available from your local bearing company in MRC/RBC/TORRINGTON (KOYO) or INA/SKF,
IF not we can supply them POA,
Check out our website: www.aabearings.com.au
 
3 NU1010's in each hub. Their load rating is enough to carry a Sherman tank. I've done this conversion and the cheapest place I could find to buy the bearings was this crowd. They also have the seal you'll need.
BTW, I have no interest in this company.
 
It has taken a lot of years but a weakness in Henry's hardening process is showing up now. The process didn't harden very well at the axle nut end of the hub so the hardening wears through - I'm sure most have seen it.
The standard repair is to put a sleeve on the end of the trumpet and in the hub, then use the smaller V8 rollers. The problem with that repair has been discussed a number of times here and in another forum. The sleeves for the trumpet tend to be soft and the rollers of poor quality. I have heard of a number of ways of using other over the counter bearings with varying degrees of success. So far no problems with this conversion on my car.
 
Synchro909 said:
It has taken a lot of years but a weakness in Henry's hardening process is showing up now. The process didn't harden very well at the axle nut end of the hub so the hardening wears through - I'm sure most have seen it.

The standard repair is to put a sleeve on the end of the trumpet and in the hub, then use the smaller V8 rollers. The problem with that repair has been discussed a number of times here and in another forum. The sleeves for the trumpet tend to be soft and the rollers of poor quality. I have heard of a number of ways of using other over the counter bearings with varying degrees of success. So far no problems with this conversion on my car.
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Yeah, I am not sure where this is coming from. To begin with, Ford did not make the hubs, ...Kelsey Hayes did. I have both Ford's and K/H drawings on the A-1116 hub (11456 is K/H #). The print specifies the hub to be a forging from 'EE' steel with a 'BB' heat treatment. It calls for a 51-55 Rockwell. If the bearing alone was kept saturated in good quality grease, these would have gone a lifetime. Matter of fact, type 'EE' steel is a medium carbon steel and when forged, it likely would have given many miles of service without the heat treating process.

But on to the root problem. Most owners did a poor job of keeping the hub bearings lubricated which is why the hubs wear. I have a plug we machined that allows to check the wear of the hub. Many hubs are worn out-of-round and/or on a taper. Machining for a sleeve only wears thru the case hardening. That is why replacement hubs are manufactured to keep everything within factory tolerances.
 
Bruce of MN said:
Boy, Amazon has a big range of prices for those babies: $610 to $35!
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What are "those babies"? The hubs or bearings or NU 1010 bearings?
I can't remember exactly what I paid for the NU 1010 bearings at this company but I'm a tight @$$ so it wasn't much.
 
I DON'T KNOW WHY FORD DIDN'T insist on designing/engineering (or Ruckwell) the rear axle assembly to take TAPER ROLLER bearings when just about EVERY major/minor USA car, commercial (trucks NOT pickups/utes) ,even tractors specified&used Timken EXCEPT for GM! :(.
 
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