BUT - certain components of this arrangement "didn't age well" and open circuits abound.
Such as:
1. Ground from headlights back to car frame (done via "structure" only - rust and/or paint can obstruct this.)
2. Headlight bayonet plugs (in reflector) issues.
3. Headlight conduit attachment (similar to bayonet plugs)
4. Headlight switch itself. (Should be a 4-contact switch but maybe something jury-rigged.)
This is certainly only the beginning of a comprehensive list.
This link is to a full electrical system pdf document you can download to your hardrive. https://www.lionsgatemodelaclub.com/Reference Info/2018 Reno Electrical System Alex Janke (1).pdf
It has a lot of info on the lighting system and switches. It has the H type light switch and the three contact triangle switch that replaced those earlier types included so you can see how they work. The brake light circuit is more independent so it will function with lights on or off.
As mentioned, it could be a bad bulb or bulbs, loose connection, deteriorated wire, or compromised ground plane. A test lamp is a good tool but a small inexpensive multi-meter is better.
Do you have one of those fuse holder that’s mounted to the starter motor ? They are notorious for causing problems, check for voltage on both sides of the fuse .