A few questions on a 8BA

An 8BA with transmission is nowhere near 1000 lbs, so I think your appraisal of your chain hoist being worn out is correct.

I got a "Cherry Picker" about 30 years ago and it has been an invaluable tool during that time. Mine is not a "fold-up-for-storage type", but I'd sure try one if I need another.

The best thing is that you don't need anything to hang it on.:D
 
tubman said:
An 8BA with transmission is nowhere near 1000 lbs, so I think your appraisal of your chain hoist being worn out is correct.

I got a "Cherry Picker" about 30 years ago and it has been an invaluable tool during that time. Mine is not a "fold-up-for-storage type", but I'd sure try one if I need another.

The best thing is that you don't need anything to hang it on.:D
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We have a fold up cherry picker and it's great. In my opinion for what you're trying to do and on a budget I see them for sale frequently on Craigslist and Offerup for very reasonable prices or for trade. I think a 1000 lb. lift would work just fine. Just make sure you're on good concrete and take things slow.
 
tomcarman said:
We have a fold up cherry picker and it's great. In my opinion for what you're trying to do and on a budget I see them for sale frequently on Craigslist and Offerup for very reasonable prices or for trade. I think a 1000 lb. lift would work just fine. Just make sure you're on good concrete and take things slow.
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I think Tubman is right, my 1 ton chain hoist is wore out. I bought it off of FB market place used. Is very handy to have around, but with a flathead & transmission it just spins around like a stripped gear or something. Will lift just the engine fine though.


I see the engine cranes on marketplace all the time pretty cheap.

The wife engine blew up 2 weeks ago and been searching for the used crane and nothing available. Story of my life :mad:
My plan is to buy the crane this month and next month a engine.
If nothing shows up by the end of the month, will go to harbor freight and buy the 1 ton crane. Just call it a day.


Thats why am working on the 8BA now. Next month will need the engine stand for the wife engine. Trying to get it disassembled and put away. Figure out what it needs to put it back together and later this winter work on it some more.
The crank cleaned up easily. I spent yesterday with gasoline, wire brushes, scotchbrite, vacuum cleaner, compressed air .... I believe with more cleaning, the rotating assembly can be used as is. For a good running used engine.


I set the crank back in and installed the timing gear, trying to turn the valve train.
I have a few stuck lifters.
 
The crank cleaned up easily. I spent yesterday with gasoline, wire brushes, scotchbrite, vacuum cleaner, compressed air .... I believe with more cleaning, the rotating assembly can be used as is. For a good running used engine.

I set the crank back in and installed the timing gear, trying to turn the valve train.
I have a few stuck lifters.


So now am really stuck. I want to remove the valves/valve guides as a assembly.
I do not have a K-D 918 tool.
I do have a 2 piece valve guide with the mushroom stem.
Even with the tool I may not get them all out. Without the tool seems the only way is to cut the stems and drive the guides down and replace all of it.
A quick google search looks like $1k to replace it all?



Just convinced it was rebuilt and in good condition when parked. The fuel pump was missing and may be the cause of why it was parked.
Crank turned 10/20, bearings are excellent along with the rings, has a few new valves or not oem. Pistons are standard the cylinders hone out nicely but coated in oil for now.

There was very little sludge in it, very little carbon build up. Each cylinder one valve had a small amount of black & the other valve was cocoa brown. The motor ran great the last time it ran.


I just cant bring myself to cut out $1k worth of good valves over a few stuck lifters.
Thinking to use my map gas torch to heat them up and then soak with oil.
Just not confident in success in this approach. Which one is stuck?



If I cut them out, I can remove the lifters and then just concentrate on the remaining stuck lifters.

I just need to think about it and figure out what I want to do with the engine.
 

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In your last post, you said "I do have a 2 piece valve guide with the mushroom stem". I have never seen two piece guides and mushroom stems on an 8BA. I have seen the 8BA pieces used in an earlier engine, but not the other way around. Perhaps someone had the earlier parts and used them in a late engine to save money.

The usual practice is to use the 8BA valve setup in all flatheads, as it is better all around and easier to work with.
 
tubman said:
In your last post, you said "I do have a 2 piece valve guide with the mushroom stem". I have never seen two piece guides and mushroom stems on an 8BA. I have seen the 8BA pieces used in an earlier engine, but not the other way around. Perhaps someone had the earlier parts and used them in a late engine to save money.

The usual practice is to use the 8BA valve setup in all flatheads, as it is better all around and easier to work with.
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I have never worked on one before ... I admit to being ignorant about them. Honestly I just do not know. This looks like a mushroom stem to me.


And what Tubman is saying is what I am reading. Yet I think I have older valves and this engine came out of a 1951 F1
 

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I think (not 100% sure) they are rotator valves. The mushroom valves were not used (by the factory) in an 8BA.
If you look at a lower angle you should see the valve stem is a smaller diameter where it contacts the lifter.
Mart.
 
I think you're right, Mart. When I look at the valve on the right, I think I can just see a glint of the valve stem, and it looks like a regular stem. I think he is seeing the rotator mechanism.

I think that the later valves are quite bit cheaper than the "mushroom" pieces, so I would check prices on the later assemblies; you might be pleasantly surprised.
 
Mart said:
I think (not 100% sure) they are rotator valves. The mushroom valves were not used (by the factory) in an 8BA.
If you look at a lower angle you should see the valve stem is a smaller diameter where it contacts the lifter.
Mart.
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I appreciate your input there mart and am a subscriber to your videos.


When I say I am ignorant, not saying I am stupid, I simply do not know what I have and learning as I go.
I am ignorant because I do not have the knowledge to know what am working with.


I am pretty sure Mart would not jump in and cut these valves out.
My only logical move will be to buy the k-d 918 tool and hope for the best.


I do have a bar and can pop the keepers loose ... and pull the clips out of the top. Just not want to commit to that approach if I have to cut the valve stems.
 
Hard to get a photo, is it possible I have the later style valve?
Either way still looking for ideas to remove them without the K-D 918 tool or to not destroy them during removal.
Chances look slim & none at this point.
 

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You should not have to cut the stems...those are definitely late style valves and retainers. Compress the springs and remove the keepers, shoot some lube on the stems and work the valves up and out. Then you can remove the springs, tap down the guides and pull the clips, and will have access to work with the stuck lifters.



Terry
 
tubman said:
Here's a link to everything you would need to replace your valves for $249.99; a quarter of what you mentioned. There are packages like this all over the internet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1424693797...R2ytdDRmbWZPEn_61G4Fo2pa9t69UHgMaAvvjEALw_wcB.
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Thanks Tubman, that is a more reasonable approach then H&H flatheads or other speed shops selling parts. I have to think on it before going further. I can see me putting it back together for a reasonable price.
I still think oem parts may be better then what are offered today.


I am just lost and no idea what to do with it.
I know many have bought engines and built a car around them.
My original goal was to save the motor from the scrapyard, I paid $100 for it.
I am just stuck with removing the valves ... I almost wish I found the block cracked and junk. I would be done with the problem.
Seems to be better then expected, yet needs more work with the lifters.


Just saying if someone showed up today and wanted the engine, I would give it to them.
I have a 1949 dodge with a 6 cyl flathead and runs decent ... I just really need to get my ocd under control. Anyone want a 59Ab block, come get it. I am done wasting time on it .... for now.
Even if I fixed it, what would I do with it ... stick it in my dodge?
I honestly need to get rid of this engine before putting money into it.
 

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From what you've posted here, I agree with "cadillac512". It should come apart with a little effort. Follow his advice and you'll have it apart before you know it. Spread your effort over several days, and if you get to an impasse', stop for a day or two and do something else.

It always seems to work for me.
 
Los, thanks for following the channel.

You're worrying about something that is probably not worth worrying about in your case.
These are more conventional valves than the old mushroom type and as such are much easier to remove.

A conventional valve spring compressor can be used to compress the spring so the keepers can be removed. The valve can then simply be withdrawn straight up and out. The guide can be knocked down just enough to remove the horseshoe clip. Hopefully knocking it down a bit will break the bond and it can be pushed up and out with a pickle fork tool.
If that doesn't work, I'm not 100% sure, but if you can wiggle the spring off the valve, you might be able to knock the guide all the way down and out into the valley area.
I've only dealt with split guides lately so am a but hazy on later guide removal.

All the above supposes the guide has not been able to be removed with the conventional pickle fork method. For reference that method id engage the tool in the slots in the guide, pull the guide down, remove the horseshoe clip and push the whole assembly up and out.

Any questions just ask.

Mart.
 
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