A few 1929 CCPU questions

I could easily do that Fred, I am not a "points" person. I am going to go to napa in the morning and see if they have a cast engine paint. I would like it alot better than what it looks like now and to remove and repaint it is not much work.
 
I've had good luck and like the looks of VHT brand high temp paint called "NEW CAST". It looks just like a new cast iron piece.

The generators with two wires and cooling holes came on the Fords built right after the Model A. Lots of people use them on the Model A, and they would take the same cutout. The one wire is for the field ground and is fastened under the cutout mounting screw.
 
Thanks for that info about the generators Tom, I appreciate it. As soon as the weather breaks, I am going to start on the cab corner and get the top done. Can't wait to be driving this baby.
 
got a good look at the damage done to the driver side roof and cab. Started taking off the metal roof to see what wood was damaged and it looks like a need a new front header (bows are good) and a side rail that is toast! Looks like the rear header or crossmember is still good. What do you think? Driver side door jamb is also cracked about 3-4 inches down from roof side rail. Who should I use to get these three pieces and are they going fit right with my existing wood?

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Don't know if you need it or not, but I have a metal cross member that goes across above the windshield. When I installed a Huckster body on my 29 CCPU, I did not need this part. So I still have it and if you need this, if I could get it to you somehow, would give you a good deal on it. Also, if I remember, I have a couple of little "plate" type parts that go on the top of the window posts. Also a good deal if you need them. Just though I would memtion these if they can be of any use to you.
 
It would be good to check the wood at the front header on the passenger side also, those areas have a low survival rate for the wood.

You will most likely have to do some fitting of the new wood to the old wood pieces where the new meets the old. They might be very close fit, you won't know until you get the new pieces. If you are able to buy a new front header, driver side door header, and door jamb wood pieces then you will only have to fit the wood in two places - At the front header to passenger door header, and the rear header to driver’s door header. Those should be easy areas adjust the fit from new to old. There is one small trim piece under the door header that you might also need, it holds the door seal at the top of the door.

There is a mortise and tenon between the door header and the door jamb piece that should fit fine if you buy those pieces new from the same place. I have wood from Classic Wood and the pieces are dimensionally close to the original wood.

You may be better off in buying a complete top wood kit.
 
I am going to call classic wood and see if I can order the parts from them. I really want to keep whatever wood I can so I do not think I need the full wood kit as the passenger side looks really good.
 
Well, I was wrong. Looks like I am going to end up replacing the entire top wood. I got the steel top off today and decided to just replace it all. What is good has bad spots and tons of nail holes. The top the farmer put on was an old cut in half Coca Cola sign, bummed me out because I also collect soda signs and a Coca Cola sign that big is worth quite alot. Here are some pics from today.

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I bought my wood kit from Howell's in Texas. It actually fits pretty good. You do need to do some final shaping but it wasn't that bad. Howell's has a really bad reputation on delivery. If you buy through their Ebay store you will get it much quicker. I bought a complete wood kit for the truck including the 'B" pillars and it is going together quite nicely. Short story about my cab corners. I bought new ones from Mac's. Mainly because of the shipping delays with Howell's.They took about a month for them to show up. When the did arrive one of the stampings wasn't formed quite right. I also noticed that they came direct from Howell's. I talked with Mac's and sent them pictures and only asked that they replace the one that wasn't formed right. They tried to get a new one from Mac's but like alot of us have found those people aren't the most customer friendly. Finally Mac's just gave up and credited me in full for both corners. I was able to fix the bad stamping and I am using them on my cab. They actually fit pretty good.
 
I have an original cab corner that I am using to repalce the bad one so I know it will fit correctly. Now I am trying to decide who to go with as far as the wood kit. It is between Classic and Ford wood. Going to call them both tomorrow. I like the fact that ford wood offers free shipping. I looked into getting the kit from Snyders because I get most of my parts from them but they want 55.00 just for shipping.
 
Decided to go with Classic wood, it was not cheap but you guys praise them so we'll see when the parts get here. I ordered a complete top and two new door posts. The one is still good but I figure if I have the cab that apart, I might as well replace it.
 
Had some time today after work to pull the damaged cab corner and see just how out of whack the cab it. I am pleasantly surprised that the cab is rust free and very original. The damage does not go past the cab coner. The top bracket is bent pretty good but I can straighten it out. After replacing the door post and top, and fitting the new original cab corner I have, the cab should be back in shape. The seats are in great shape too but forgot to take a pic of those.

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Looks like a little "fuel" on the floorboard in the first picture above. Looks great and like you are having fun with it. Good luck.
 
Another good day after work. I grabbed my original cab corner I bought and it is mint except for some damage at the bottom so I cut the area out and replaced it with a section of the cab corner that came off the truck (the bottom was super nice). Decided to test fit it and it fit like a glove, even all the original holes to mount it to the center panels lined up. I also test fitted the donor door and the gap is great. Just the swap of the cab corner and door reduced the beltline misalignment by more than half. Shimming should take care of the rest. In the last pic, you can see how the impact of the accident pushed the rear wood crossmember over about an inch, which is what dented the top of the passenger side as it slid over. Wood will be here tomorrow so time to become a carpenter!



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Alot of work was done this past week. All new wood top and door jambs have been installed and the body shimmed properly (thanks guys for the shimming help) and I could not be happier. I never showed pics of the driver side because it looked so bad but after today I can show pics of it and be proud. Door alignment is spot on, even without the strikers in place, gotta love that. I only used about 1/4 of the hardware kit I bought, tried to re-use original hardware whenver possible. Next is redoing the cobra long grain top and then it is on the the motor swap and drive it!

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