A differential question...

J

jeep44

Senior Member
Back when I got my old Fordor, one rear drum was rusted to the brake shoes, so in getting that drum off, I removed the key in the shaft, and replaced the drum without the brakes for the time being. Now I've got it running again, but I have a question: Without that key in one of the rear brake drums, will the car move or not when it's in gear?
 
Actually, I was puzzled why the car wouldn't move when I shifted it into gear while it was running, and then I remembered the missing key in the real wheel. I'm hoping that is the only problem.
 
Well, like the poster above said, hoping isn't going to get me anywhere, so today I replaced the backing plate and brake assembly on the drivers side, and replaced the key. Everything looked good, so I started it up, and put it in gear-nothing! I pulled the drum on the other side, and the keyway on the axle shaft was broken out. Back when I bought this car a few years ago, it had been sitting in a pole barn for 40 years, and the owner had dragged it out. one wheel was locked up, and he still just dragged it until that tire blew. Who knows what else is busted in the drive line-now I have to start digging into that. I guess I should have known it wasn't going to be easy.:(
 
well a busted keyway like that gurantees you need a new/replacement axle which means pullign the rearend and banjo apart. likely find your culpret in there.
 
its pretty straight forward nut and bolts, be VERY careful around the rear spring, treat it like a loaded gun and dont EVER stand over it until its off the axle and tension relaxed.
 
I'm very wary of that spring-I've taken them off before. You really don't appreciate how much tension it's under until you see it in the unloaded state.
 
SeaSlugs said:
well a busted keyway like that gurantees you need a new/replacement axle which means pullign the rearend and banjo apart. likely find your culpret in there.
Click to expand...


If all you need to do is replace a damaged axle, you do not need to pull the rear axle assembly out of the car. You do need a spring spreader and some jack stands to set the rear of the frame on. Remove the rear wheels. Put a floor jack under the banjo. Spread the spring and remove the left shackle bolt. Remove the nut from the large bolt at the front that holds the radius rods together. The bolt should come through from the right, so all you have to do is remove the nut. Remove the brake drum and the axle key from the right side. Lower the jack slightly. Remove the ten banjo bolts from the left side. On the left, the axle housing with the left brake drum and radius rod attached can be removed from the car and set aside. Grab the left axle shaft and pull it straight out. Both axles and the ring gear attached to the carrier will all come out together. Take the axle assembly over to a work bench and cut the safety wire on the nine carrier bolts. Separate the carrier halves and both axles can be removed. Replace the damaged axle and put it all back together and slide it back in to place into the right axle housing and banjo under the car. Reassemble as you took apart and you are back in business. Be sure to replace the banjo gasket(s) on the left side with the same thickness as was found on disassembly as this controls the pre-load and back lash.

Tom Endy
 
Post-mortem, and an embarrassing admission from me: I'm an idiot.
I pulled the shafts and carrier out without too much trouble. The banjo was full of water, along with a lot of sludge, so it's a good thing I looked into that. Both roller bearings are going to have to be replaced, so this work was not wasted effort.
I was talking to a knowlegeable Fordbarner on the phone, trying to diagnose why I could still turn the pinion gear by hand when the car was in gear-we were puzzled, and I figured I would have to have another look at the universal joint. So, after I got off the phone, I took the top off the transmission, and the access cover on the bell housing,too-why is everything turning when it's in gear????
I reached over to press the clutch pedal and it's like a big light bulb lit up over my head! I had pulled the engine and clutch housing when I rebuilt the engine, reset the clutch finger height-everything by the book. But when I put the engine back in, I never adjusted the pedal-too busy with other things-there was no freeplay, and all this time, the clutch was engaged! Of course it would never move. D'oh! D'oh! Well, like I said, just as well I had pulled the rear end apart, to change those rusty bearings, but I sure felt stupid.:o
 
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