A brake problem has me stumped

[harleytoprock]

When using Teds floater you have to make sure the brake adjusting shafts(at the top) are not binding in the bores. You should be able to easily push the rear brake shoe forward and the front shoe backward. See that Teds wedge is moving completely back and forth. I put a hand on each shoe and while pressing the shoes together gently, I rock the shoes front to back and check the adjusting shafts movement.

 

[harleytoprock]

Quote:
Originally Posted by ian Simpson View Post
When I rebuilt my front brakes two years back, I had the problem noted in #11. t was caused by oversize ends on the reproduction Front Brake Shafts (Part # A-2077-B and # A-2076-B in Snyders Catalogue) binding in the king pin cups.
how did you resolve it?
I re-shaped the repros with carefull grinding and sanding. I used an original as the sample pattern and looked at the amount of material around the push rod socket as a guide.

 

[ian Simpson]

When I rebuilt my front brakes two years back, I had the problem noted in #11. It was caused by oversize ends on the reproduction Front Brake Shafts (Part # A-2077-B and # A-2076-B in Snyders Catalogue) binding in the king pin cups.[/QUOTE

]

how did you resolve it?

Sorry, I meant to add that I solved it with careful grinding and filing to get them to the same shape as the originals. The front side was particularly oversize and that was what was jamming the action. Care is needed as the end result is fairly thin and it would be easy to go too far.

Also, I could not use the originals as a previous owner had drilled out the cotter pin holes to accommodate oversize bolts.

 

[sphanna]

I have finally desided to do the following:

After discussing the problem with all on FB who were so very helpful and with Snyder and Bratton's techs, I have ordered parts:

1. New shoes with oversized lining installed and arched to drums of 11.060 diameter.

2. Set of pills if needed.

3. Oversized clevis pins. 11/32

4. Set of short shoe return springs.

The right front brake seems to be OK with the .030 drum turn.

Oh Yah, I also purchased the Mitchell hub puller. I have pulled the rear hubs twice before by loosening the nut slightly and driving a couple of miles. Then I was able to use my completely inadequate gear puller to pull the hubs. Will do it right this time.

I hope this works. I'll let you know in a week or two as I finish my post season check and prep.

I really appreciate you FB guys. You have made the difference for me. I could not have enjoyed this hobby and become fairly proficient in the care and feeding of my beloved Fordor without the FB resources.

 

[Roserock49]

Here is a pix. showing how to install the centering gauge

 

[FlatheadTed]

There are people here that most likely know more than me about brakes but I thought I would comment ,In picture 16 you can see the lower wedge sitting low with the eye showing ,by adjusting the top adjuster the shoe s will slide down and squash the wedge so it will pop up ,this may bring the clevis forward maybe more than 15 % so the rod has to be let out. So its a balancing exercise between the top and bottom adjustment ,If you drums are worn and lining to thin or the A2042 adjuster links are chewed of the ends then you may run out of adjustment .The same applies to the king pin rod if its to short the clevis will be less than 15 % ,you can add weld to these that can compensate or get the thicker linings or new drums .If the king pin brake shaft binds up in the head a 3% bend can be put in the top of the rod ,Final adjustments are done on the road with wheels on the ground and by checking the drum heat with your hand , the front should be hotter than the rears .If the rears are to tight they will cancel out the action on the front were you want most of the braking force .All parts a precision machined and I have lengthened the top adjusters 3mm so it helps installation but with no hex head to keep costs down , so you will need to use pliers .These are just a few tips .Ted