A "A" Newbie's Dilemma

Terry NJ

Well-known member
I first saw my Cousin's two AA trucks on the farm in the late forties. They were wrecks by then, but they worked. Years later, when they were rusting hulks in the field, the sun would make the old radiator shells sparkle, I reflected "Old Henry" built a helluva truck (and car).

I was happily at my computer when the doorbell rang and it was a friend who was going to an auction. "Hey, there's a mod A going up for sale!"
That's all it took for me to abandon the puter! The windup was I was now an owner of a 1930 Mod A fordor. Later, I deduced it was a Town Sedan. Hell, I can restore this this thing, Mod As are simply made, nothing to it! I got it home and started by taking inventory of the stuff that came with it and what I needed. I was not daunted by the lack of an interior, or the rotten wood, some of which you could shred in your hand. Most of it was there and mod A parts are cheap. Didn't JCWhitney sell them? The engine was not seized and the radiator was full. and there was only a small amount of rust for 79 years. Floor boards and seat pans were good.
Well as time went by, I learned a few things. Liike JCWhitney is out of the Mod A business. New radiators cost about $400 engines about $3000 Yada X3.....We aren't in Kansas anymore! Wood Kit's really blew me away!
And automotive paint has gone up a tad since I bought my last quart of Centari!
Here's the report, Wheels 16", Do I want to change back to 19"?
Brakes, Juice type with frozen 29-48 shoes, Master Cyl Frozen
Frame, No Shocks
Fenders, All cracked. I have repaired the two rear fenders. I will replace the fronts with two nice welled fenders I got at Hershey for $150 last year.
Engine, Trans, Rear, all seem ok. I got the engine running and drove it around the house. Trans seems OK and the rear seems ok.
Steering, steers like a car without PS. I Felt some "clicks" in the steering box.
Radiator needs recoring
Speedometer and Dash seems OK. I made a new Ign. Key that works.
Seats, door panels, windows, Much of the seat wood is rotten. all traces of upholstery are gone. Springs are there but rusty, There is nothing left of the door panels and and mouldings. three broken or missing windows. Top wood needs replacement.
Body, Only a small amount of rust at the bottom of the cowl and a small dent in the rear detract from the body iron.
Soo! Where do I start? I want to remove the body off the frame. I will use my backhoe for lift. Is it too soon for this? Should I leave the doors in place to lift it or should I remove them?. Any suggestions are welcome!
Terry
 
Oh boy, you lucky guy! An adventure!!
Don't worry so much about the body right now. That's the hard part. Put the joy off 'til later. Save the body-off moment for some snowy Saturday this fall.
For now, fix the brakes. Change the oil. And enjoy the summer driving season, even if you just go 'round the house. Make sure you take your wife for a ride, too.
And, check out fordwood.com to start your Christmas wish list.
Above all ... have fun!
 
Very exciting.

Pictures, please. Lots and lots of pictures.

You can expect unlimited, enthusiastic help here in the barn.
 
I poured MMO in the cyls and fuel oil into the Oil pan and spun the engine with the starter. After a few days, I drained the whole mess. Engine oil was like tar. I flushed it again and let it drain. I put more MMO in the crankcase with more fuel oil, spun it with the starter and let it sit for a few days. I opened it and drained it again. More dirty filthy stuff. Again I put 2 quarts of 30 weight and two quarts of fuel oil and some MMO, spun it over and let it sit. Meanwhile, I worked on #4 exhaust valve and got it freed up. now I had some compression in all cyls. I hooked the coil up and proceeded to get it running. I ran it at Idle now and then for a week. Again, I drained the oil and replaced it with 30# this time. I then, removed the head and checked the condition of the inside of the engine. The bores were oversize by .010 at the bottom of the cyls and .036 at the top, with standard pistons. I need a rebuild with a boring...Bad! So unless otherwise advised, I will remove the body and engine and begin the ordeal of body work. The engine's going out! Any tips on taking the body off?
Terry




Oh boy, you lucky guy! An adventure!!
Don't worry so much about the body right now. That's the hard part. Put the joy off 'til later. Save the body-off moment for some snowy Saturday this fall.
For now, fix the brakes. Change the oil. And enjoy the summer driving season, even if you just go 'round the house. Make sure you take your wife for a ride, too.
And, check out fordwood.com to start your Christmas wish list.
Above all ... have fun!
 
My first suggestion is to take lots of photos before you begin disassembly and lots more during disassembly. You will need them for reference when you begin to reassemble the car. My second suggestion is DO NOT DISCARD any parts or materials until you have completed the project. My third suggestion is to purchase the book "Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards" published by MARC & MAFCA. There is a lot of information that will help you restoring your car.
You did not say if your car is a Murray Town Sedan or a Briggs Town Sedan. I have a late 1930 Murray Town Sedan and have accumulated some extra parts such as interior trim parts and rain gutters.

Don Turley
www.donturley.com

Don, Thanks for the info. I almost never discard anything anyway, No problem there! The car is a Briggs. And wouldn't you know, The main distinguishing feature between Briggs and Murray are the door frames/window mouldings which I need! I have 7 Murray moldings and the three rear Briggs mouldings but I need the ones for the doors. I listed the 7 Murray mouldings for $200/OBO or a trade for the 4 door mouldings.
I went out to Hershey last year (awesome!) and looked at shocks, which I also need. Also Running boards.
Terry
 
ok terry , Where to begin, Well right here is a good start. Great bunch of people here on the barn.Next join a local club. Lots of us retired guys looking for something to do.Also most have extra parts . Next call and order parts catalogs from all the venders.
Snyders
mikes
berts in denver has original parts also
brattons
these books show exploded views of parts and assembly

good luck Tim
 
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