94 accel pump linkage

wga

Well-known member
On the photo, the link to the accelerator pump is loose in the cam.
What is the fix for this?
Also, in one of the 94's that I have, there is an additional spring inside the pump housing under the wiper. Slightly less than the pump bore diameter,
and light in tension, Is this spring necessary?
 

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There must be a spring on the accelerator pump piston on the "94" carb for it to function. However which spring can be a problem. The stock springs ,in my experience, are a little too weak to properly work with the new rubber piston seal cups. They cause a lag in the pump function when first depressing the throttle.till the spring is compressed enough to over come the piston drag. This will give an audible snap when the pump starts working.The weak spring is compressing at the wrong end of the stroke. I reciently looked at two rebuild carb and they had slightly longer and slightly stronger springs in then, along with a replacement cap on top of the spring to hold it. I found a replacement spring that was the correct outside diameter,as stock, a little stronger but a little shorter and stretched it to the length of the original. Problem solved.
 
First of all you should NOT use the cone shaped spring under the accel. pump that are on some of the later 94 carbs.You use a helper spring on the round pump rod and cut to the right length to help pull up the pump when you ease up on the gas pedal. Also i would never use those rubber accel. pumps in the first place.Use a correct length leather cup one.Call me on the link problem. ken ct.
 
No the round rod that pushes the pump up and down,sounds like you dont know much about 94 carbs.ken ct.
 
As far as I know all "94s" have a flat blade on the acc. pump plunger. The round rod is part of the acc.pump linkage. For your information I've been driving, building and racing flatheads for almost 51 years. All carburated with holly "94s".
 
Yes your right on the pumps themselves,im talking about the what you call the linkage part,a spring of the rite diam and length can be added to the rod to help it bounce back up.Thats all i was saying.I would never use a rubber type AP there garbage with this gas today. ken ct.
 
Re the link.

You should be able to grab it at the top pivot with a pair of pliers and pull it out. A bit of oil and wiggling may help if it appears stuck.

Once out you can carefully bend it so it engages the throttle cam holes in a more positive manner. It may be bent the wrong way and requires straightening to work better. New links are available if necessary.

Thanks to the above for the pointers on springs - I never thought about those before.

Mart.
 
Penitratin oil the heck out of it. They seem to come out better if you place the endof the flat blade and pry it up with a sharp movement,it will pop out.Theres good leverage if you place the screw driver right.Assuming theres no small hair clip holding it in. Its just held in there by a small ball and spring. ken ct.
 
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