90% Oil Filtering Fitting

D

Don W/Norfolk

Senior Member
Not long ago during a discussion of how to achieve 90% oil filtering, someone posted the attached figure.
I'm considering having the fitting made by a local machinist and I would like the dimensions of the fitting.
Can someone help?
Thanks,
dw
 

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You don't need any special components to do this operation. There have been several articles published on line and in books (Mine) that explain the easy way of doing this. Just install a set screw in the passage way between the two lines. This will permit the oil to go directaly to the filter and return to the oli system of the engine. Simple.
 
U.S. built flatheads need to have the inboard vertical oil port drilled and tapped to provide the extra passage from the filter, and tapping the horizontal passage for the grub screw that isolates the outflow from the inflow can be easily done at that time, since the engine is out of the car. The Ford Canada built flatheads already have the inboard passage drilled and tapped, thus a fitting to isolate the "in" from the "out" without drilling or removing the engine can be designed such as this one. Ford Canada used a thin brass sleeve that projected down from the outboard vertical passage about 1.25" to block the horizontal flow, and it was part of the fitting that connected the 3/8" ID line to the filter so that if the filter was removed and the ports blocked to run with no filter, the horizontal passage was clear and no possibility of forgetting to remove a blocking device. The full-flow option could be provided quickly by the dealership without machine work and little possibility of problems caused by later removal or change to a bypass system. ..B.
 
I'm aware that I could drill and tap the inside passage for a set screw. i'd like to make this modification without needing to drill and tap with attendant risk of contaminating the oil system. I'm not in the process of rebuilding the engine or anticipating doing same. The beauty of the "plug" I inquired about is that it appears it could be inserted without any need to drill and plug.
If I were reworking the engine I would certainly do the drill and plug procedure, but I'm just trying to get better filtration without needing to tear the engine down.
dw
 
Don W/Norfolk said:
I'm aware that I could drill and tap the inside passage for a set screw. i'd like to make this modification without needing to drill and tap with attendant risk of contaminating the oil system. I'm not in the process of rebuilding the engine or anticipating doing same. The beauty of the "plug" I inquired about is that it appears it could be inserted without any need to drill and plug.
If I were reworking the engine I would certainly do the drill and plug procedure, but I'm just trying to get better filtration without needing to tear the engine down.
dw
Click to expand...
And how do you intend to install the vertical hole for return oil without contaminating the system?
 

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Don, you're aware that the second vertical hole will still have to be drilled and tapped unless you have the Canadian block that already has that hole?
 
There is a guy in Canada that makes that grub screw just like the one in the pic. Cheaper than having a machine shop make one. There is a rubber O-ring that seals that inner passage, you can see it in the pic. Someone on here has his name and no. Walt
 
The fellow that was selling the plugs shown is
Bryan Buckley
5649 Marlatt Ave
Powell River
British Columbia
Canada V8A 4E6
His Email is bbb@prcn.org

All this info is dated so I hope it is still currant.
 
AAdams said:
The fellow that was selling the plugs shown is
Bryan Buckley
5649 Marlatt Ave
Powell River
British Columbia
Canada V8A 4E6
His Email is bbb@prcn.org

All this info is dated so I hope it is still currant.
Click to expand...

Does anyone have the Tell. no. for Bryan Buckley ? I called him a few yr's ago and bought one of those plugs. Walt
 
I've always drill and tapped those holes 3/8 pipe thread, But I've seen the Canada ones are drill only for 1/4 pipe thread, I guess you have to get a 1/4 fitting with the biggest hole that you can find and it will get enough oil through to feed the engine. Walt
 
There was a post here 2/3 years ago, about a guy who drilled, taped, and added the threaded set screw to his block as necessary to have the 95% FF system. He wanted to fire the engine for its initial start up without the oil filter and lines plumbed, so he just blocked off those rear ports with threaded pipe plugs. He fired the engine, let it run for awhile, took a ride and the engine seized. Bearings and I believe some bearing journals were damaged. Problem turned out to be no oil flow to some or all main and rod bearings. If he had done this using that Canadian plug design and removed the plug until he was reading to install the filter and lines, this would not have happened. It was a tough and costly way to learn
 
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JM, I remember the historical post you are referring to and I seem to remember the problem was caused by the grub screw being in place in the passage. (from a previous oil filter conversion). the problem wouldn't have been averted by a plug like above (unless you are referring to removing that type of plug).

Mart.
 
I have a motor that is out of the car and on a stand. Doesn't need to be rebuilt and runs fine as is. Would it be a mistake to try to perform this modification without taking the motor completely apart? What about partial dis-assembly, if the chance of oil contamination with metal shavings is an issue? Magnetic probe after tapping? What about temporarily blocking the oil passages until all the necessary machining procedures and appropriate cleanup has been satisfactorily completed? Perhaps I should leave it as is, but it would be a worthy mod to do if I could eliminate a total tear down/reassembly from the process. What do the FB gurus think?
John M
 
Mart said:
JM, I remember the historical post you are referring to and I seem to remember the problem was caused by the grub screw being in place in the passage. (from a previous oil filter conversion). the problem wouldn't have been averted by a plug like above (unless you are referring to removing that type of plug).

Mart.
Click to expand...

You are correct Mart. The attached pictures that 51 merc posted are not like what I remember that would have allowed some oil to bypass, thus keeping the bearings lubed w/o the filter and hoses plumbed. I believe the picture that Don posted initially is what I was referring to, but will check my files to make sure.

EDIT: Well, I went back and found the thread I was thinking about. As it turns out, on the Canadian system and plug with an o-ring, you would need to removed that plug, same as would the grub/set screw if that method was used, if you wanted to run the engine before the filter and lines are install, and if those holes were plugged.

Here is the post with lots of reading but some very important reading for those who are planning to do this type of 95% FF oil filter system.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38439&highlight=oil+filter&showall=1
 
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JM 35 Sedan said:
You are correct Mart. The attached pictures that 51 merc posted are not like what I remember that would have allowed some oil to bypass, thus keeping the bearings lubed w/o the filter and hoses plumbed. I believe the picture that Don posted initially is what I was referring to, but will check my files to make sure.
Click to expand...

There is a Canadian setup that used an external "H" type of fitting that is probably what you are thinking of. It also has a pressure relief valve in it. I have no idea how it would work if the diagrams of it are correct because it also allows a direct bypass through the block passages, but never really worried about it either!
 
Hey all, have any of you done this on a 21 stud engine? I have a 36 and was reading the past threads and after looking at my block on the stand it does not have the convenient flat spot in the casting like the later engines. Finding the oil passage is easy but I am concerned that due to the curvature of the casting in that area I will not have enough material depth to get a good set of threads cut for the second fitting.
 
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