markdtn
Senior Member
I always like a post with a resolution when I go searching. Finally I have one.
First-I do not want to say anything bad about the guy that sold me the early flywheel. He has been more than good to me on advice and finding parts and he will take this one back. He said he had just never run into that, that he doesn't deal with the flywheels, just the engines when they come in.
Second- I want to give a plug to Feltons Clutch in Chattanooga, TN. They are extremely knowledgeable about clutches of all sizes. They have a huge stock of clutches and pressure plates that they rebuilt ready to go. They had on hand the 11", the 10", and also the latest need the 10" B&B. They turn flywheels while you wait. They rebuild pressure plates (and discs) quickly- if they had not had on hand at 4:30 they would have had by lunch the next day he said. They stocked the bolts I needed. They stocked throwout and pilot bearings-and not one of them was from China. I paid about 2/3 the cost of an auto parts store clutch and at least the cores said made in USA. I cannot say enough good about how they helped me and worked with me. Anyway, if you need a clutch and are in the area, I highly recommend them.
So I took the latest flywheel and pressure plate down to them. Got there about 4:20 and was gone by 4:50. They exchanged my 10" Long PP for a 10" B&B (the last one they had) for no additional cost. They bead blasted and faced my new flywheel. I bought new bolts, but they were for a Chevrolet and were about 1/8" longer than original. I tried to clean the holes with a tap deeper, but it was going to be a struggle so I decided not. The last thing I wanted to do was to break a tap. Luckily I got the old bolts with the used flywheel. They were in good shape so I cleaned them up and put it all back together with new lockwashers.
I wanted to get the 2 halves back together as all I have to support the engine is a floor jack-that I don't trust. I supported the back half of the tractor with a jack-stand, but the front if you have the jack back far enough to balance there is no room for a stand. In 1 of the pictures I had a stack of rims which I did not trust either. This is a unique application as the engine pivots on the front axle and is a bit hard to balance perfectly. Also, the steering is not connected and the wheels want to steer in opposite directions. I was very happy when I got it together with some bolts in it. I was wary to use rod and bolts in the aluminum spacer. They are 7/16 fine thread. I cleaned the holes with a tap, they were all looking a little "fuzzy". I used 2 of my welding vice grips to pull it together. As anyone who has stabbed a transmission knows, you can't force it. You have to take time and get it lined perfectly and be patient. I use the vise grips to gently hold the 2 sides even, then rock it just a little and spline it. Usually the vise grips fall off they are so loose. Another difficulty is that usually you can put the transmission in gear and turn the input shaft to help spline it, on a tractor you cannot. I used a breaker bar on the front pulley but not much room. Would have been easier before the radiator. Anyway, after about 10 tries I felt it spline so I gently pulled it together and bolted it up. Hooked enough stuff up and fired it up. Started on about the 3rd turn. No crazy noises.
I turned it off and then hooked up the rest of the wiring and other parts that connect the 2 halves. Fired it up and now I have a clutch! I can put it in gear. Unfortunately I will not get to go for another ride until Friday due to some previous commitments, but I am confident that I am up and running now. Thank you for all of your help.
First-I do not want to say anything bad about the guy that sold me the early flywheel. He has been more than good to me on advice and finding parts and he will take this one back. He said he had just never run into that, that he doesn't deal with the flywheels, just the engines when they come in.
Second- I want to give a plug to Feltons Clutch in Chattanooga, TN. They are extremely knowledgeable about clutches of all sizes. They have a huge stock of clutches and pressure plates that they rebuilt ready to go. They had on hand the 11", the 10", and also the latest need the 10" B&B. They turn flywheels while you wait. They rebuild pressure plates (and discs) quickly- if they had not had on hand at 4:30 they would have had by lunch the next day he said. They stocked the bolts I needed. They stocked throwout and pilot bearings-and not one of them was from China. I paid about 2/3 the cost of an auto parts store clutch and at least the cores said made in USA. I cannot say enough good about how they helped me and worked with me. Anyway, if you need a clutch and are in the area, I highly recommend them.
So I took the latest flywheel and pressure plate down to them. Got there about 4:20 and was gone by 4:50. They exchanged my 10" Long PP for a 10" B&B (the last one they had) for no additional cost. They bead blasted and faced my new flywheel. I bought new bolts, but they were for a Chevrolet and were about 1/8" longer than original. I tried to clean the holes with a tap deeper, but it was going to be a struggle so I decided not. The last thing I wanted to do was to break a tap. Luckily I got the old bolts with the used flywheel. They were in good shape so I cleaned them up and put it all back together with new lockwashers.
I wanted to get the 2 halves back together as all I have to support the engine is a floor jack-that I don't trust. I supported the back half of the tractor with a jack-stand, but the front if you have the jack back far enough to balance there is no room for a stand. In 1 of the pictures I had a stack of rims which I did not trust either. This is a unique application as the engine pivots on the front axle and is a bit hard to balance perfectly. Also, the steering is not connected and the wheels want to steer in opposite directions. I was very happy when I got it together with some bolts in it. I was wary to use rod and bolts in the aluminum spacer. They are 7/16 fine thread. I cleaned the holes with a tap, they were all looking a little "fuzzy". I used 2 of my welding vice grips to pull it together. As anyone who has stabbed a transmission knows, you can't force it. You have to take time and get it lined perfectly and be patient. I use the vise grips to gently hold the 2 sides even, then rock it just a little and spline it. Usually the vise grips fall off they are so loose. Another difficulty is that usually you can put the transmission in gear and turn the input shaft to help spline it, on a tractor you cannot. I used a breaker bar on the front pulley but not much room. Would have been easier before the radiator. Anyway, after about 10 tries I felt it spline so I gently pulled it together and bolted it up. Hooked enough stuff up and fired it up. Started on about the 3rd turn. No crazy noises.
I turned it off and then hooked up the rest of the wiring and other parts that connect the 2 halves. Fired it up and now I have a clutch! I can put it in gear. Unfortunately I will not get to go for another ride until Friday due to some previous commitments, but I am confident that I am up and running now. Thank you for all of your help.
