8BA tooling.

Ol' Ron said:
I can't afford one at present. However, I would assemble one at no labor charge in stock form, if I could dyno it.
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I like the idea. I usually machine the first sample casting even if it isn't sellable, just to dial in machine programming. So far, every fist block I have ever made, even if not sellable, has been buildable for testing.


I was thinking of cutting an intake port in plastic and letting you flow it. I can do that first and then while we check the port I can be cutting tooling that need cut no matter what changes may need made to the port, if any.


Tod
 
Intake Port: One thing to consider is potentially lowering the guide and associated horseshoe clip retainer groove say .187 to .250 inches. Many of us run Chevy valves (or can) anyway and this would help us increase the spring pressure (without a bunch of shims) and would give you more room in the floor to make a better sweeping transition into the port.

The stock port has a lot of flow issues in the bottom/back and how the shortside turn has to transition. There is not much room to do much with it (due to water both above and below the port). I can see no reason for not removing the water on the intakes all together.

Also, look how little material we have to work with in the back of the bowl - is an area that a lot of 'newbie' porters cut through.

Here is a cross section of a stock port - sure looks like a few key modifications could vastly improve it's flow potential - which would help any of us that want to build performance engines (and the guys paying for this block would surely include a lot of those types of guys).

PortCutaway_CloseUp.jpg

Here is a 'manually' hacked up image to kind of show the new bottom:

IntakePortWithMods1.jpg

I would still profile the stock guide to match the port floor in the new (lower) floor area where I removed the water. Hopefully you get the idea.

NOTE: Per Ol' Ron's post below - I only showed some proposed work on the bottom (for an example). I totally agree that the top (short side) work provide a lot of benefit - and potentially MORE than the bottom. I tend to raise the top as much as possible and am extremely mindful of that dang water up there! Would surely like to see it removed on the intake side.
 
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This is a good example of how different builders configure their their porting as well a other parts of the engine. In my case I raise the top & bottom of the port. eliminating the water jacket around the intake port would allow us to widen the top of the port to the size of the intake valve. In my case the 1.72 chevy valve for street and up to 1.8 for racing. unfortunately the bowl is the biggest problem and the only way to cure that is to eliminate it all together. The far side of the bowl takes air from the bottom of the port and shuts off the air from the top of the port.
Unfortunately I no longer have a flow bench so I have to use some computer programs run by my grandson. I I have an idea on how to eliminate this, however it has nothing to do with the block casting. Old age and bad eyesight has prevented me from proceeding with this project. I now have a crank assy and am filling a block wit plastic steel around the intake port. If, a big if this works I should be able to dyno this engine to prove a point.
Only time will tell.
Gramps
 
I would be interested at that price range.
Will make me keep my boat anchors around a while longer to see how it works out :)
 
The best flow I found(with intake ports without water) is a 3 1/2" radius from the straight section into the 60 degree cut below the seat in the bowl with 1.780 valves. Upper end of block port at 1 3/8", at intake manifold, tapering to 1 5/16 at the beginning of the 3 1/2" radius.
 
Tod said:
I will be starting to cut new 8BA tooling soon. Just for the sake of reference, how many people here think they might want a block when I have them available?

Tod
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Here's a harebrained idea! Hold a 'porting challenge' to find the best port shape:

Tod casts the upper portion of one cylinder with OEM bolt locations, centerlines, valve locations, etc., but with extra meat around the ports. Set up a contest like "Engine Masters". Each contestant gets a dummy cylinder and has at it, using their own valves and chunk of cylinder head. On a set date, all the cylinder/head assemblies are taken to one location(like the college where "Engine Masters" is held) and tested on the same flow bench. Winner gets a prize, maybe a new block. Make the entry fee high enough to cover costs or maybe get a sponsor.
Here's a chance for porters (backyard or professionals) to show their stuff. Plus, this new block will get the latest, best port design!
For the ambitious, maybe also cast interchangeable exhaust runners (end and center) to bolt to the cylinder to see what improvements show up here.
Or mold it out of clear plastic. A club or association or sponsor could handle the details of when, where, how much, etc.
"Knowledge is power!" "Put your money where your mouth is!" "Put up or shut up!" Etc. Etc.
 
Sounds like a great project. I agree with Ron about the bore size, there are plenty of 8BA blocks around that will go with small bore. I would add mounting holes for stablizers bars used on 32-48 cars.
 
right now I think the point of this block is to replace the original. Everybody, including me have their own little ax to grind. However the truth is no racing body will except it in competion, and it wouldn't pass for an original replacement block in an antique inspection.
I think Tod is in a great place if he makes a block to suit everybody that just need a reliable replacement BLOCK. The obvious choice would be a 27 bolt casting with all the necessary bolt holes to satisfy everybody. This would have an 8BA bell housing. Ford makes adapters to convert to post 49 engines. Any head & intake will fitl. What this will accomplish is: at a reasonable a stock type engine can be reproduced for everyone. The added use of the block if some of the other improvements are made without trying to produce an LS version of the Flathead. Lets get it built. Having worked for a company that pores 200 tons of cast iron a week (Small ant) , I understand some of the problems getting the casting from a liquid state to a machinable chunk of metal.
 
dmdeaton said:
put me on the list, where do we sign up?
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I will probably come through the thread and jot down all screen names and then contact you all by Private Message. I think there are at least 20 that can be sold right out of the gate. I will be meeting with an iron foundry this week to go over various castings I need until I am ready to pour stuff in my own foundry.


Tod
 
Started cutting the driver side intake port core box for the new 8BA engine block today. The picture is of the beginning of the finish pass. I have a lot going on so I will be pecking away at this until it is ready to cast a first sample.


Tod
 

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Keep going Tod - I love seeing the progress and the fact that you're undertaking this effort and hopefully members of the Barn can step-up and buy some of your resulting blocks!

THANK YOU!
 
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19Fordy said:
Tod, you are amazing. Thanks for what you are doing.
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Let's not over-state things. I'm just an every day, ordinary guy. I just happen to do this for a living.


On another note, I finished cutting the driver-side intake port core box today. A late afternoon meeting with a couple of people stopped me short of pulling it out of the machine, though. Almost!


Tod
 
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