8BA timing

[40cpe]

I did the test through the spark plug hole and it verified my TDC mark. This crank pulley has a pronounced dot near the TDC mark. I hope you can make it out on the picture. It has the holes for the crank mounted fan like a '40, and it came to me in my '40. So I set the original mark with the head off by bolting a bar across the cylinder. I've checked it using a tie wrap through the spark plug hole. And it is reasonably close to a factory dot on the pulley. I'm pretty certain the TDC mark is correct.

 

[rotorwrench]

I've never seen where Ford marked any of the older pulleys prior to the 8BA era. It's likely a coincidence or perhaps some mechanic did it in the past. The front mounted distributors were fixed. Distributor internal timing was the only way you could change it. Most adjustment procedures didn't include a timing light.

 

[Ronnie]

Are the first marks in 2 deg increments. If so they appear to be marked after tdc
What mark is tdc?



R

 

[40cpe]

The TDC mark is on the left, then the raised dot, then 10 degrees, the first small mark is 18 degrees. The space between 20 degrees and 30 degrees is marked int 2 degree increments. What I'm really concerned about is the misfiring over 2500 RPM when the total timing is set at 18 BTDC all in at 2000. When I bring total timing down to 12 BTDC it runs smooth at that RPM and higher. It doesn't miss or ping driving at any speed. I just don't want too much timing to damage the pistons or bearings. The surging, racking, bucking, on deceleration when slowing to a stop below 1200 rpm also goes away with decreased initial timing (L100 cam). Your thoughts appreciated.

PS: The pulley is turned 180 degrees from the pointer in the picture so as to get a photograph of the raised dot. The dot was on the pulley when I bought the car in 1985.

 

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

My experience with flatheads is they seem to run best at factory settings. Stock initial timing
And around 25 total all in.
I'm using a duel point Mallory with a Pertronics
Conversion. Eliminates dwell issues with the points, and it works great.

I second that comment!!

 

[Pete F]

So here is my question
When the Engine was built was the cam degreed in , over the years guys have complained about performance with aftermarket cams and gears but have never checked cam timing.
An advanced cam needs retarded ignition timing , a retarded cam needs advanced ignition timing.
If it wasn’t checked your guessing on everything.
So if you haven’t checked it you probably will be tuning by ear.
Not that tuning by ear is a bad thing especially since every Engine reacts differently and altitude with fuel mixture can change what works for one Engine and not another.
Make one change at a time and see what the results are before you go crazy.


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[40cpe]

No, I didn't degree the cam. The specs say 4 degrees advanced. I'm not complaining about performance, it is peppy for what it is. I just don't want to give it more advance than it can use.

 

[Pete F]

No, I didn't degree the cam. The specs say 4 degrees advanced. I'm not complaining about performance, it is peppy for what it is. I just don't want to give it more advance than it can use.

There is two ways to hurt a Engine
Number one detention will melt ring lands or knock out rod bearings
Number two
Late timing will kill performance and overheat the Engine and exhaust
Both can take out head gaskets
The last flathead I did when I degreed the cam in using Cloyes timing gears and Schneider cam there were one tooth off from being 0
If the cam is advanced it will have great bottom end but will require the timing to be retarded.
If the Engine runs good ,doesn’t ping and the plugs don’t show signs of speckles run it.


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[40cpe]

There are no aluminum specs on the plugs. It is set now at 0 initial, 12 mechanical, and 4 vacuum. It is 94 degrees here this afternoon. I'm going to take it for a long ride to see if the engine temp stays where it has been.