8BA stroker kit
- Thread starter 3twinridges
- Start date
Well said and agree. Each person needs to do what they feel most comfortable with. Truth be told, I would have gone .125" over if I hadn't gone through 5 blocks and the only good one was already at 3 3/8ths.
In the end, it's only time and money. Eventually, we'll all run out of one of them.
Are you talking about Kenny Kloth's stock bodied Merc that ran 145.3 at Bonneville with a 267 c.i. motor? I think we're talking 30-40 years ago he did that. I have no idea if he still holds the record or what ever happened to the car.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Hey Hank: There is a LOT that you can do with Henry's stuff - up to a point. You can stroke a 4" crank to 4 1/8" - past that it would be a "welded stroker". This isn't too popular these days, but there were lots of folks doing it "back in the day". My friend Joe Reath did a lot of them, Speed-O-Motive, etc.. Very few folks could afford a custom billet crankshaft - then or now, so there is only so far you can go with Henry's parts.
Connecting Rods: Same deal --> you can only go so far with 21A rods before they become a weak link. Also, the softer 'Cadmium-Silver' full-floater rod bearings are really tough to find today - so it is rougher than ever to build a stroker like we used to.
Cost: By the time you buy a NOS set of 21A rods, have them shot-peened and prepped and find the right bearings, you're over the price of an H-beam rod set (which are a lot stronger) . . . so pick your poison.
Even back in the 50's there were guys making custom connecting rods. Today, the typical "H-Beam" rods that SCAT and EAGLE sell are pretty dang good up to probably 400 HP or so. Beyond that, you're probably looking at one of the "big boys" like Carillo, Crower, etc..
For unblown street applications, you can go a long way with Henry's parts -- when you get to all-out competition it is the same as it was 70 years ago ---> how much money do you have and how fast do you think you want to go!
Connecting Rods: Same deal --> you can only go so far with 21A rods before they become a weak link. Also, the softer 'Cadmium-Silver' full-floater rod bearings are really tough to find today - so it is rougher than ever to build a stroker like we used to.
Cost: By the time you buy a NOS set of 21A rods, have them shot-peened and prepped and find the right bearings, you're over the price of an H-beam rod set (which are a lot stronger) . . . so pick your poison.
Even back in the 50's there were guys making custom connecting rods. Today, the typical "H-Beam" rods that SCAT and EAGLE sell are pretty dang good up to probably 400 HP or so. Beyond that, you're probably looking at one of the "big boys" like Carillo, Crower, etc..
For unblown street applications, you can go a long way with Henry's parts -- when you get to all-out competition it is the same as it was 70 years ago ---> how much money do you have and how fast do you think you want to go!
I'm not following. You asked about a Merc that ran near 150. What does the Chinese or Chinese parts have to do with it?
Tim.
I did not ”ask” about a Merc going ’near’ 150.
I ’say’ it was a Merc going +150 years ago.
I’ll just say ( its my ’personal’ feel ) this engines should not has Taiwan parts in them and and it do works all Ok for streets and also over 300 HP go Henry, thats my point ( in thread.
-Who has real 300 HP on rearaxle in this ?
I did not ”ask” about a Merc going ’near’ 150.
I ’say’ it was a Merc going +150 years ago.
I’ll just say ( its my ’personal’ feel ) this engines should not has Taiwan parts in them and and it do works all Ok for streets and also over 300 HP go Henry, thats my point ( in thread.
-Who has real 300 HP on rearaxle in this ?
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Bore&Stroked.
I has no question about billets or new quality rods and bolts, and as a machinist for 40 years I say Yes.
In my new NHRA stocker 426 Hemi ( over 9K ) I has a Sonny billet crank and Verdi rods with inconel rodbolts )
Before I run std Chrysler crank then Crower and Crower rods with L-19, but this is high RPM and hevay rotating and no argue on price
-I’ll just say NO to Asian stuff in a Henry.
I say a big no - but thats just me, but all do what they like.
You shore is right on babystroke and the 21A rods, but lets be honest, find a Merc crank, let it be cleaned and inspected and grinded and Merc rods and new bearings and maybe balance it, and who need more in this aplication, its then a soul in it.
But if one like make a Taiwan car, just do it ( this is is just my thoughts )
I has no question about billets or new quality rods and bolts, and as a machinist for 40 years I say Yes.
In my new NHRA stocker 426 Hemi ( over 9K ) I has a Sonny billet crank and Verdi rods with inconel rodbolts )
Before I run std Chrysler crank then Crower and Crower rods with L-19, but this is high RPM and hevay rotating and no argue on price
-I’ll just say NO to Asian stuff in a Henry.
I say a big no - but thats just me, but all do what they like.
You shore is right on babystroke and the 21A rods, but lets be honest, find a Merc crank, let it be cleaned and inspected and grinded and Merc rods and new bearings and maybe balance it, and who need more in this aplication, its then a soul in it.
But if one like make a Taiwan car, just do it ( this is is just my thoughts )
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Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Hank: I think we're on the same page. Henry has given us plenty to work with - it is just a question of which parts, what modifications and how big of cubic inches are we working toward.
You can easily build a nice 276 or 284 cubic inch street engine that will run extremely well, will be reliable, will sound great and will move an early Ford down the road in fine fashion.
As that is what you're doing - I say GREAT!
You can easily build a nice 276 or 284 cubic inch street engine that will run extremely well, will be reliable, will sound great and will move an early Ford down the road in fine fashion.
As that is what you're doing - I say GREAT!
I has nothing to say by build cars and engines with aftermarket parts, and it’s all good it’s out there.
I'll talking more about a feeling, and going FH and old trans/rearend it does feel odd to me that not use Henry stuff.
But who see a crank ?
When I started my project I'll bought a 32 std frame but could not find a 32 3W body, so I asked on advise get parts to set up a Brookville 3W but as I can’t do metal I bought a 29 roadster and payed deposit ( idea was then search for a std 3W ) but I went to a hotrod meet and saw two 29 roadster and one Henry and one Brockville. I direct realized it was no soul in the new body.
Even if the idea was old school I thought I could use a new body ( for a while = but no..
After that I realized I need search for a Henry and this 5W came up, but it shore was pricy and need work, but I guess this is how I see it.
From an engine perspective I use the 21A rods and this make really no sense but its era correct, but what I ‘mean with both the feeling and price is Henry had decent parts that still can be found. I had a 4" crank I that got for free ( guy bought a Scat ) but it needed be grinded and I bought a set of rods for 175 dollar. But sold it and found this old stroked 4", so with NOS rods and new bearings I payed 610 dollar.
-The Merc story is just an example, maybe not a good one but it show what a std bore and a std 4" crank and std rods can do.
After all, the reason to use a FH is not more than a feeling, as common sense is use a CSB or LS1.
I hope that those read this understand I talk more about the feeling.
I balance cranks in my work and on the 80's it was just old std iron maybe a billet if hard core racing but in 2000 it came more China cranks and now its seldom a std crank walks in. Right now I install heavy metal in an old 'big daddy' KB Mopar crank, it’s a monster at 85 LBS.
On the Merc 41 block I has I has not decided if I will bore it max, and get more cubic’s out, it’s a cool block and it will work as it is but it’s a process get it to Sweden so maybe a bad idea even if sonic test showed .25” now at 1/8 over according from seller. But in general the block is more or less to be seen as repaired and can be play with. If I had more a street rod and a very nice std bore 41 Merc block I never would bored it. My coupe is a race car or moderate used, seen more as time capsule to look and just rew it up some.
I'll talking more about a feeling, and going FH and old trans/rearend it does feel odd to me that not use Henry stuff.
But who see a crank ?
When I started my project I'll bought a 32 std frame but could not find a 32 3W body, so I asked on advise get parts to set up a Brookville 3W but as I can’t do metal I bought a 29 roadster and payed deposit ( idea was then search for a std 3W ) but I went to a hotrod meet and saw two 29 roadster and one Henry and one Brockville. I direct realized it was no soul in the new body.
Even if the idea was old school I thought I could use a new body ( for a while = but no..
After that I realized I need search for a Henry and this 5W came up, but it shore was pricy and need work, but I guess this is how I see it.
From an engine perspective I use the 21A rods and this make really no sense but its era correct, but what I ‘mean with both the feeling and price is Henry had decent parts that still can be found. I had a 4" crank I that got for free ( guy bought a Scat ) but it needed be grinded and I bought a set of rods for 175 dollar. But sold it and found this old stroked 4", so with NOS rods and new bearings I payed 610 dollar.
-The Merc story is just an example, maybe not a good one but it show what a std bore and a std 4" crank and std rods can do.
After all, the reason to use a FH is not more than a feeling, as common sense is use a CSB or LS1.
I hope that those read this understand I talk more about the feeling.
I balance cranks in my work and on the 80's it was just old std iron maybe a billet if hard core racing but in 2000 it came more China cranks and now its seldom a std crank walks in. Right now I install heavy metal in an old 'big daddy' KB Mopar crank, it’s a monster at 85 LBS.
On the Merc 41 block I has I has not decided if I will bore it max, and get more cubic’s out, it’s a cool block and it will work as it is but it’s a process get it to Sweden so maybe a bad idea even if sonic test showed .25” now at 1/8 over according from seller. But in general the block is more or less to be seen as repaired and can be play with. If I had more a street rod and a very nice std bore 41 Merc block I never would bored it. My coupe is a race car or moderate used, seen more as time capsule to look and just rew it up some.
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3twinridges
Well-known member
I was able to find a merc crank. The SCAT looks pretty good also, looks well made. I am going to let the machine shop decide which one they want to use.
JB
JB
3twinridges
Well-known member
Parts are here and taking them to Tommy tomorrow at Goza Machine to see what he wants to use in this rebuild. Schneider 248F cam, EAB cam, Scat 4” crank, and a Merc 4” crank. Got some nice standard bearings also. Leaning towards the Schneider cam and Merc crank but we will see what he recommends. I like the original USA stuff as the above posts mention and that’s always close to my heart.
JB
JB
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
For todays flathead, a street engine should be bored to 3 5 /16! any 8ba or 59 block will do
csm should be a stock 8ba any one
heads should be 8ba angle milled for .o5o" over the valves
Now tou have a 258 ci engine with over 8:1 CR
With a single carb will d but a
Chev dist
Results: an inexpensive, long lasting engine with adaquit power great mileage.
Ahd it looks almost stock
Your biggest problem will ne tuning it, very few people know how!!
Gramps
csm should be a stock 8ba any one
heads should be 8ba angle milled for .o5o" over the valves
Now tou have a 258 ci engine with over 8:1 CR
With a single carb will d but a
Chev dist
Results: an inexpensive, long lasting engine with adaquit power great mileage.
Ahd it looks almost stock
Your biggest problem will ne tuning it, very few people know how!!
Gramps
3twinridges
Well-known member
I ended up having to use the SCAT 4”. The mercury crank I bought ended up being a 3 3/4 ford. When we unboxed it at the machine shop last night I was skeptical due to the big throw length less than 6” but they checked it this morning hoping it would measure out to 4” and it was a no go.
JB
JB