8ba oil filter parts ?

B

bk53

Senior Member
Hi, I've looked in the swap meet and everywhere else on the internet.

I have a long standing leak from my 8ba where the oil filter line connects to the back of the block. I want to change out everything associated with this.
The motor is fresh built and this is the only leak I can find. It leaked here since forever I guess.
from the ford trucks 48 - 56 parts catalog, I came up with the following numbers. These are my descriptions. I couldn't find ford's descriptions.
Does anyone know what thread counts and etc? I know I can tear it down and find these things out but i'm trying to avoid more than an hour of down time and maybe fit the repair into my next oil change. I figured out the vacuum lines using 3/16 brrake parts. I'm wondering if I can do the same with common 1/4" fittings?

None of the NOS guys I called have anything like these part numbers except for the 1ba-6073.

Thanks for your time,
Bill

358238-s (male to female adaptor, block to flare nut)
87971-s (filter housing adaptor to flare nut)
357763-s (adaptor where oil returns to block)
87943-s (flare nuts)
1ba-6073 (oil pressure t-fitting) (the only thing that isn't leaking)
 
This is a photo of my home made 8BA flathead block oil fitting set up. I am very sure the block threads are 1/8-27 NPT (National Pipe Thread) brass Weather Head fittings. All these brass fittings are from NAPA. DO NOT TRY TO USE ANY OTHER THREAD SIZE! AS PIPE THREADS ARE TAPERED.
Here's more: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=722488
 

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all that I have torn down have common brass fittings available at a napa or oreilly parts house. The only special fitting is the orfice fitting going into filter housing.
Tony
 
19Fordy said:
This is a photo of my home made 8BA flathead block oil fitting set up. I am very sure the block threads are 1/8-27 NPT (National Pipe Thread) brass Weather Head fittings. All these brass fittings are from NAPA. DO NOT TRY TO USE ANY OTHER THREAD SIZE! AS PIPE THREADS ARE TAPERED.
Click to expand...
Sorry to say, as pretty as your set up looks, threaded brass pipe with no ability to flex is just a disaster ready to happen, it's just a matter of time (probably when you least expect it)
 
BK53 have you tried wraping a small bit of string around the fittings. That as best I can recall is what we in did back in the day.
 
Weatherhead used to supply even the special T with restriction...I would guess it is gone now, but you can replace it with a standard T and just tap&plug the lead in to the filter of a regular T with a threaded section of bolt drilled through somewhere near to .060.
Everything else is certainly standard stuff, but you may need to find a store willing to let you dig through their fitting cabinet with your old parts in hand.
 
Thanks guys! I may just try that string trick. Otherwise i guess I';ll pull this apart and head over to the last napa guy who still carries weatherhead around here. Thanks much.
 
34PKUP said:
Sorry to say, as pretty as your set up looks, threaded brass pipe with no ability to flex is just a disaster ready to happen, it's just a matter of time (probably when you least expect it)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I never even gave that a thought. It's been on there for 14 years.
Now you've got me worrying. Maybe there's a way I can make it all shorter and still incorporate the oil pressure sender and the electric fuel pump sending unit.
 
Truck parts houses ,Napa too I suppose,have tube of hardening Teflon pipe dope..We use it on oil lines,airbrake fittings...They are hard to get loose but work great...I use it on anything I don't want to viberate loose....Seals good....
 
19Fordy said:
This is a photo of my home made 8BA flathead block oil fitting set up. I am very sure the block threads are 1/8-27 NPT (National Pipe Thread) brass Weather Head fittings. All these brass fittings are from NAPA. DO NOT TRY TO USE ANY OTHER THREAD SIZE! AS PIPE THREADS ARE TAPERED.
Here's more: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=722488
Click to expand...

What do you have on the top and left? Looks like two pressure senders.
 
19Fordy said:
Thanks, I never even gave that a thought. It's been on there for 14 years.
Now you've got me worrying. Maybe there's a way I can make it all shorter and still incorporate the oil pressure sender and the electric fuel pump sending unit.
Click to expand...
Just a suggestion, would need to fabricate a custom bracket to mount the sender/pump switch to a couple of intake bolts. Then 1/4" steel line to block fitting.
 
Russ/40 said:
What do you have on the top and left? Looks like two pressure senders.
Click to expand...

The round thing on top is the oil pressure sending unit that goes to the gauge on the instrument panel. The round thing on the side is an oil pressure shut off sender for the electric fuel pump. The theory is that in case of an accident where the engine shuts off, the oil pressure shut off sender will "sense" the drop in oil pressure and shut off the electric fuel pump. The wires on top of the sender are for a toggle switch under the dash that allows me to turn the electric fuel pump "ON" and "OFF" manually.
 Also, thank you all for the helpful suggestions re: my brass fitting arrangement. Perhaps I can make a "stand off" bracket to make it rigid.
 

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19Fordy said:
The round thing on the side is an oil pressure shut off sender for the electric fuel pump. The theory is that in case of an accident where the engine shuts off, the oil pressure shut off sender will "sense" the drop in oil pressure and shut off the electric fuel pump.
Also, thank you all for the helpful suggestions re: my brass fitting arrangement. Perhaps I can make a "stand off" bracket to make it rigid.
Click to expand...
I opted to go with an "impact" switch instead of an oil pressure switch.
The reason being that in the event that you have a head on impact and the throttle sticks with the engine racing ( I have seen it happen) the oil pressure switch will not shut off.
 
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