8BA just died

There is nothing wrong and being dumb and happy.
Go buy a Chevy 1968 coil and resister and condenser and you will be on the road.
Save the muli meter for checking battery's.
 
George/Maine said:
There is nothing wrong and being dumb and happy.
Go buy a Chevy 1968 coil and resister and condenser and you will be on the road.
Save the muli meter for checking battery's.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I will do in the morning, that is the easiest way to fix the darned thing. Thank you
 
All I could buy in my one horse town was a coil and I bought one for a 1968 chevy pickup. after installation and getting the points in working order the engine fired up. my video didn't work.

Thank you everyone
 
You need to determine if it is a 3.0 ohm or 1.5 ohm coil? If it is a 1.5 ohm coil and your running it on 12+ volts it may not last long and if it does survive, the points life will be shortened.
 
My tools will not measure this coil resistance. There is no specs on this coil at the auto parts store. I am taking it to a shop. Today, I had to go send a fax, so I decided to drive the roadster. I get almost there and the car starts to bog down, I immediately turned around and made it home. It's almost like something shorting out in the distributor. We are taking a few days to drive up to Santa Fe, and when I get back home I will get this thing sorted out. I will post again in a week or so.
Thanks everyone
 
When testing a coil with OHMS reading that to me is not a good way but quick way. I would check under power when running. You know when leaving the key on some times it burns the coil up.
This what I used on my 8Ba in my 39 ford.
The coil that fix the stock bracket was a IC 13 Echlin 68 chevy and I used a ICB 1.82 OHMS Echlin. When Running if you put across resister should read about 2x1.82=3.64 volts. Forget the ohms on coil.
less ohms means more amps.
 
OK George:
Here is what I bought, a 1968 chevy pickup coil at Autozone. All they know is that it's a 12 volt. Today I ordered CS786 contact points from NAPA, also ordered a RR175 condenser from NAPA. Tried to order a RI11T resistor from NAPA, but the number produced 3 results. This number can be 1.2 ohms, 1.35 ohms and 1.75 ohms. If I buy the 1.75 ohm resistor, I should have 3.5 volts?

I was told the resistor currently on the car is a 1.5 ohm resistor. It ran like a clock for about 1000 miles.
 
That 1.5 resister should be ok if it runs with 2 amps with volt meter about 3 volts ok.
If you have a good spark out of coil, pull cap wire to grd should snapping sound 1/2"
Do this when not running. With new points and condenser should be good for years.


If your points are not staying with the correct gap your dist bushing on shaft are worn.
With the 1.75 resister the current will be less.
 
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As a sanity check, I looked at a 68 Chevy with a 307 on rockauto site and it does use a ceramic bodied ballast resistor. Personally I use a coil that does not use a ballast, but it is what it is.

Mart.
 
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