8BA in a 36 Ford
- Thread starter 3wmike
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JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Michael, I did this way way back as a teen working on my first old Ford ('35 3w coupe). I used a cast iron bell housing from a pickup truck, and truck wide belt pulley water pumps for correct fit of front motor mounts. I had to make rubber sleeves that fit over the necks on the thermostat housings so the larger ID top radiator hoses would fit. Now today you can buy thermostat housings with larger hose diameter connections. As I recall the biggest problem was coming up with a cooling fan that would work in the space confinement of engine to radiator. I made some type of modification to a 59 series fan/generator mount assembly that worked, but with very little clearance between fan and radiator. There have been many posts here on this same subject in the past that you can find by doing a search in the archives. Good luck!!
Oh, ps, I believe I had to change the oil pan for clearance of steering rods.
Oh, ps, I believe I had to change the oil pan for clearance of steering rods.
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V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Like those above have said..............FAN!
Using an 8BA has been a problem in '35-'36 Fords since the first time some hot rodder did the deed way back in the '50s. That radiator leans back, and there ain't room for squat! Well, my buddy Heard and I finally solved that problem by designing and building a mechanical fan assembly that would allow us to 'trash-can' that wussy-fied electric fan someone thought was the answer. Read the article we posted with pictures and explanations....click the link below! More questions...PM me! I have dozens of pictures. DD
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1578749&postcount=12
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Hi
Thank you all for pictures and information about the swap, it´s very helpful to me for planning the work.
"mfagan" it should be very kind if you can send me some pictures on the solutions you did on your car.
Unfortunatley can I not send any PM:s to you since I´m rather new here on the Fordbarn and the rules don´t allow anyone to send PM:s before they put in 10 posts here
my e-mail is mickael.er@telia.com
Thanks again Mike
Thank you all for pictures and information about the swap, it´s very helpful to me for planning the work.
"mfagan" it should be very kind if you can send me some pictures on the solutions you did on your car.
Unfortunatley can I not send any PM:s to you since I´m rather new here on the Fordbarn and the rules don´t allow anyone to send PM:s before they put in 10 posts here
my e-mail is mickael.er@telia.com
Thanks again Mike
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Hey Mike......You're getting close on the number of PMs necessary to be "whole". A couple more posts about the weather at your house, and the color of paint on your car and you're set to 'bark' along with the rest of the big dogs. If you need my e-mail, just post here. I'll help any way I can....pictures/details! I can make-up all kinds of good stories! DD
blucar
Well-known member
The installation of an 8BA engine into an early Ford V8 is quite simple if you use a truck and/or or '49-50 Merc bellhousing. You will also need '49-50 Merc or 49 later truck water pumps with '49-50 Merc motor mount spacers. See attached pix.
The fan can be a problem, however, an electric fan will solve this problem.
Another solution is to use a side mount generator and a cut down '39 generator for an upper pulley.
The 35-36 log exhaust manifolds will work perfectly on the 8BA engine in lieu of the later model manifolds.
Attachments
Aarongriffey
Well-known member
Over size thermostat housings are available now so the hoses can fit without sleeping them.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
'
Hey "3wmike" ...... One more thing that CAN occur in swapping an 8BA into a '35/'36 is the possibility of the drag link hitting the oil pan when you make a hard turn, especially to the left. Some folks seem to be able to overcome this problem (if it exists) by bending the Pitman arm downward. I ran into a FordBarner that has tried that, even going to a longer '37-'40 Pitman arm, to no avail. Most guys that have switched-over to the '37-'48 steering boxes don't seem to have this problem because the Pitman arm sets lower in relation to the chassis than with the stock '35-'36 steering box. Just something to be aware of. A relatively simple fix would be to perform this mod to your oil pan, like below. DD
Hey "3wmike" ...... One more thing that CAN occur in swapping an 8BA into a '35/'36 is the possibility of the drag link hitting the oil pan when you make a hard turn, especially to the left. Some folks seem to be able to overcome this problem (if it exists) by bending the Pitman arm downward. I ran into a FordBarner that has tried that, even going to a longer '37-'40 Pitman arm, to no avail. Most guys that have switched-over to the '37-'48 steering boxes don't seem to have this problem because the Pitman arm sets lower in relation to the chassis than with the stock '35-'36 steering box. Just something to be aware of. A relatively simple fix would be to perform this mod to your oil pan, like below. DD
'
Hey "3wmike" ...... One more thing that CAN occur in swapping an 8BA into a '35/'36 is the possibility of the drag link hitting the oil pan when you make a hard turn, especially to the left. Some folks seem to be able to overcome this problem (if it exists) by bending the Pitman arm downward. I ran into a FordBarner that has tried that, even going to a longer '37-'40 Pitman arm, to no avail. Most guys that have switched-over to the '37-'48 steering boxes don't seem to have this problem because the Pitman arm sets lower in relation to the chassis than with the stock '35-'36 steering box. Just something to be aware of. A relatively simple fix would be to perform this mod to your oil pan, like below. DD
Good ideas here. Even simpler plan is to use ‘37 Willy’s dropped tie rod ends. Someone is repopping. I’ll try to find a link to them.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Hey Tim....These are probably the ones you're talking about, like the early '37-ish Willys tie rod ends. These are listed for Late Ford pick-ups,, but same 11/16" X 18 as early stuff....and 7º tapers, too.
The problem on '35-'36s is the drag link hitting the pan....not the tie rod. Quite possibly you could utilize these to make-up a NEW, lowered drag link. I like the pan mod, or the late steering box.
Speedway dropped ends....$54.49/pair.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Truck-Dropped-Tie-Rod-Ends,50152.html
40cpe
Well-known member
From my experience, this isn't a problem in the '36 only. I have a truck pan on the 8CM engine in my '38 coupe. After I had the engine in, bolted down, and running I discovered the pan/steering mismatch. With steering straight ahead there is clearance. As the steering is turned, the arc of the pitman arm brings the drag link closer to the deep part of the pan, causing interference in the area of the relief in the pan in post #9. I didn't take the drag link off to see if the pitman would hit the pan if turned to the left.
The confusing thing to me is that I had a '40 with an 8BA engine and a truck oil pan with stock steering and no interference. I never considered that I would have a problem with the set up in a '38.
The confusing thing to me is that I had a '40 with an 8BA engine and a truck oil pan with stock steering and no interference. I never considered that I would have a problem with the set up in a '38.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
These last few posts just go to show what you MAY encounter with an 8BA. For some reason, it doesn't necessarily mean that every swap is going to end-up with this drag link/pan clearance problem. Below is a pic of a buddy's '36 3-w coupe with 8BA and a 39 steering box (which lowers the Pitman arm). Everything clears nicely! I've seen several of these combos over the years where the guy used a '49-early '51 Merc oil pan to give enough clearance, but if you don't already have the Merc pan and it's requisite, unique oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly, it's way too expensive (and rare) to begin sourcing the pair. The pick-up assembly is crazy-rare....usually $4-500 IF & WHEN you ever find one. DD
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Hey Tim....These are probably the ones you're talking about, like the early '37-ish Willys tie rod ends. These are listed for Late Ford pick-ups,, but same 11/16" X 18 as early stuff....and 7º tapers, too.
The problem on '35-'36s is the drag link hitting the pan....not the tie rod. Quite possibly you could utilize these to make-up a NEW, lowered drag link. I like the pan mod, or the late steering box.
Speedway dropped ends....$54.49/pair.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Truck-Dropped-Tie-Rod-Ends,50152.html
Ah, yes. Thinking the wrong “rod”. Thanks for correcting me.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Pitman is same from '37-'40. They have a "78A-" prefix. '41 is a one-year-only..."11A-" prefix. '42-'48 has a "21A-" prefix. DD
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
I WOULD NOT start another thread, as this stuff is really all relative.
I posted this picture in the past, yet had to search for it for two hours this evening. Below, I show four distinct pitman arms from left to right. The first one on the left is '35-36 and should have a "48-" prefix. The second is a "78-" prefix which is for '37-'40. The third is a "21A-" which is '42-'48, and the taper in the drag link hole is opposite the rest of these arms. The arm on the right is an "11A-" which is '41-ONLY, and also the Ford service replacement part for "78-" arms. Remember, the direction of drag link taper is reversed on the '42-'48 (21A-) arms. although ANY of these arms will fit the splines on your steering box. Maybe this will help a little! DD
flatjack9
Well-known member
What is unique about this pickup?These last few posts just go to show what you MAY encounter with an 8BA. For some reason, it doesn't necessarily mean that every swap is going to end-up with this drag link/pan clearance problem. Below is a pic of a buddy's '36 3-w coupe with 8BA and a 39 steering box (which lowers the Pitman arm). Everything clears nicely! I've seen several of these combos over the years where the guy used a '49-early '51 Merc oil pan to give enough clearance, but if you don't already have the Merc pan and it's requisite, unique oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly, it's way too expensive (and rare) to begin sourcing the pair. The pick-up assembly is crazy-rare....usually $4-500 IF & WHEN you ever find one. DD
