8ba in 32 ford ?

Sturgis 39, the 39-41 single belt sheave is usable but the fan extension may have to be removed for a 32 installation with the original cross member. The 39-41 pulley is a little harder to find than the 42 -48 types.

32Gnu, The 42-48 pulley had a seal surface on the rear extended portion and the 8BA type has a press on spiral grooved seal sleeve.

The 28-48 Ford Chassis Parts catalog lists the 8BA-6303 crankshaft as a replacement crankshaft for the 39 thru 48 engines but the end result was to use insert type connecting rods instead of floaters and it has an overall length of 26.03". The original crank for the 29A/59A series was 29A-6303-B. It was listed at 26" overall length.

334Charlie, the RT pumps are the 8RT truck type pumps used from 1948 thru 1952 in most all truck & pick up installations.

Kerby
 
rotorwrench said:
Sturgis 39, the 39-41 single belt sheave is usable but the fan extension may have to be removed for a 32 installation with the original cross member. The 39-41 pulley is a little harder to find than the 42 -48 types.

32Gnu, The 42-48 pulley had a seal surface on the rear extended portion and the 8BA type has a press on spiral grooved seal sleeve.

The 28-48 Ford Chassis Parts catalog lists the 8BA-6303 crankshaft as a replacement crankshaft for the 39 thru 48 engines but the end result was to use insert type connecting rods instead of floaters and it has an overall length of 26.03". The original crank for the 29A/59A series was 29A-6303-B. It was listed at 26" overall length.

334Charlie, the RT pumps are the 8RT truck type pumps used from 1948 thru 1952 in most all truck & pick up installations.

Kerby
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Kerby

What do you mean by the fan extension?
 
Technicaly the 39 has two different pulleys. The 39 standard still had the fan on the gen, so I am now figuring you are refering to the standard type. The 39 deluxe had the fan on the crankshaft but it is still a single sheave type. The deluxe is the one I was refering to. In 1940, the generator driven fans were history. Even the 60 HP was set up for a crank mounted fan.
 
The 39-41 left, 42-48 on right, Zeke
 

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shown below is the 32-39 short fan, i belive they made 3 different lengths. you will not have enough rough for the newer style fan assemblies.



the stock aluminum that you see in my pictures as an adaptor was somthing i turned out real quick just so i could move on to mounting my motor mounts andd fitting the center crossmember. it can be avoided by making the slots on the fan longer, but the blades will be pretty close to the belt. its roughly 3/4 of an inch thick, and i made both of them at .5 and .25 thick because my truck and the lathe were in 2 different places and i wanted to be prepared to adjust accrodingly to the spaced allowed behind the radiator. in the end i may just use 1 spacer .5 thick with the center alignment collar and 4 holes bolting the aftermarket fan to the pulley i have linked in my previous post.
 

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There is going to be so many problems when trying to put an 8BA in 32 Ford Roadster. To name a few will be regarding crank shaft, bearings and most importantly a two piece valve retainer. It is one hell of a task to complete and I hope all the best for you. And also if you need an expert advice or have trouble on the way, I strongly recommend you to read a book, it’s called “Blown Flathead”.
 
regular truck = RT.... Call Speedway they have them and will know what you are talking about. Or there are some guys on here that can help.. little bird told me to stay away from Drakes pumps..
 
Revisiting this thread I was curious & posted this very question in another posting...... I have a 38 crank pulley to replace my 8BA pulley to hopefully refrain from trimming my 32 front crossmember. The 8BA uses a collar directly behind the pulley that rides on the seal area of the timming cover. Is this collar normally retained & the 38 pulley trimmed an amount as needed for belt alignment or is the collar removed & the 38 pulley used as is ? I understand the fan mount on the pulley may need to be removed if interference is encountered, just for clarification I'm using a stock 32 "K" member & original 32 front motor mounts. Thanks, Ron
 
Thanks Flat Jack 9, I'm also of the opinon that the 8-BA collar would be problematic to remove in an assembled engine with no room for a puller as I see it. I don't see the trimming of my 38 pulley requiring any lath work provided the cut is true & square...... any thoughts ?????? Thanks, Ron
 
Its definatley easier in a lathe. If you could cut most of it out and grind the top uniform it should work...
 
OK...pulleys from 1939-48 go right onto the later crank, and vice versa. 1938 and back for the short crank lack the forward extension added in '39 to bring pulley out to where the bolt and washer live...a '39 type single sheave has a collar roughly 1" long ahead of the single sheave, earlier ones lack this. The '39-41 fan type and '42-48 double ones cut back to that area where the washers seats are essentially the same thing as the semi-rare late single sheave.
The seal area on all '32-48 and also 1949 pulleys is integral with the pulley; it is an extra piece from 1950-53. If your crank has the seal piece on it, you need to remove it to install a pre 1950 pulley. I once spent a LONG time in a very dark garage learning this the hard way...
All pre-1949 pulleys have the first sheave very close to the block and require early pumps and early distributor to go together easily.
Normal way to remove that seal piece is to pull the timing gear...if assembled on the car you can either cut the seal part off of any earlier pulley (there is a perfectly clear parting line to mark the cut if no lathe) OR (naughty, naughty!) dirtball mechanics have been known to cut into the seal piece from above with a sharp cold chisel, blade of chisel fore and aft axial to crank. If you pound fairly gently (rough pounding here would be realdamnstupid) you can slowly gnerate a groove less than all the way through that will expand the thing a touch.
 
sturgis 39 said:
Could you bore the 39 t0 48 pulley to fit the 49-53 crank? Are there keyways involved? What is the difference in diameter between the two cranks? I do not know how much meat is on the 39-48 crank shaft pulley.

If the 39-to 48 intake manifolds will bolt on the 49 to 53 then the generator problem might disappear. I think the 39-48 manifolds are better looking and you do not have the breather tube on the oil fill tube which makes a cleaner looking engine.
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All 39 to 53 cranks have the same snout and the same thread in the crank snout.
 
I have an 8BA in my 32 Roadster. It's in a stock 32 frame with a 39 trans. I used wide belt pumps I bought from Speedway, I think they are truck pumps. We shortened the front pulley and notched the stock front crossmember by about 2.5". I'm using an early style Powergen alternator that looks like a generator. We added a 2" spacer to line it up with the pumps. I put on an aluminum pulley that takes an early V8 fan. I also used a Mallory dist. Everything clears no problem. The only cut was on the front Xmember. Almost 3K on the car now. Did the same exact setup on my 32 Tudor on a stock frame. I substituted a 56 Chevy 265 for the 8BA . No problem with the firewall just notched the front Xmember just like we did for the flathead.
 
Ol' Ron said:
The biggest problem is the front cross member. By using a custom craNK PULLEY AND A SET OF SKIPS 59awater pumps, this problem goes away. Use truck or Merc oil pan.
Good luck
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Sorry to hyjack this thread. Why the truck or merc oil pan?
 
Bringing up this thread.
Going through the research to install a 39-41 Merc in a 32 pickup.
 
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