8ba engine tuning help needed

Here is an update. I pulled both carbs and went over them again. Block sanded the surface flat, new accelerator pumps, new balls, steel needle and float seat, cleaned all passages.
Reinstalled the flathead distributor with pertronix. Opened gap to .035”. Increased fuel pressure back to 3psi. Took off the cheap chrome air filters off and have stacks on with screens.
I definately have a miss. If I hold the rpm at any rpm there is a consistent miss. No backfiring or pooping. Doesn’t matter where I adjust the distributor to. The lifter make tapping noise until it is warmed up.
Things to recheck : if the cam gear is stamped wrong, valve lift ( cam going flat, but I think I would have more lifter noise), bad coil( I have tried multiple coils,
 
Ok here is a bit of an update. I pulled the timing cover and gear and checked against the 2 other I have. The marks are all in the same spot. So that is verified to be correct. Checked the valve lash and they were all within .001”. Confirmed with kiwi l-100 spec of .016”. Then I noticed something. I went to roll the car back and the engine almost died. So I shook the cowl and it died. Fuel was pooling in the intake. Re check float levels and they were fine. Re installed carbs and it still did it. Pulled the carbs ad set the float lower. Re installed and it idles great now. No hesitation when driving either. I think Iam dealing with multiple problems. Still at WOT I get a rev limit type hesitation. Like the spark isn’t keeping up or lack of fuel. Iam going to install 4.5 power valves and install an air fuel gauge this week to see what’s actually having. I will try some more advance too
 
Look at 94 pv leaking if you have pooling. you wonder why guys tooled under cars ever night. multi carbs. fuel will natural pool at idle over time on a 2-3 carb setup.



Have you street tested this motor. you need some load on it.... open it up. Roast some tires or drive it hard for 10/20 miles. Its not going to hurt it, even **** timed flathead will run more then you think.



8ba is the easiest to time. could be spark... any hot motor will like more advance.
 
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May try solid core plug wires and not the suppression style, if your still running the points in the distributor.
 
The engine is running a lot better now. Increased the timing as much as possible without pinging. It will light the the tires up now through 2nd gear. I hooked up and air/fuel gauge. Sitting at 14:1 at idle now. While driving and under acceleration Iam 13.2 to 13.8. Iam running 51 jets. Should I bump it down 1 or 2 jet sizes? At high rpm I still have a rev limit feeling. Maybe I don’t have enough seat pressure on the springs? Iam running new stock springs and a .060” shim. Or is it points float on the sbc distributor?The air fuel mixture isn’t going lean so I know it’s not a starvation of fuel.
 
So it's driving okay now with some advance? drive it. Second gear scratch is good. What you looking for?
 
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A combination of things seemed to help. Float level, 4.5 power valves, advance, plug gap, and adjusting mixture screws. I drive the car everyday it doesn’t rain. Iam just trying to tune it as best I can, why stop at “it runs ok”.
 
ModelTbucket said:
A combination of things seemed to help. Float level, 4.5 power valves, advance, plug gap, and adjusting mixture screws. I drive the car everyday it doesn’t rain. Iam just trying to tune it as best I can, why stop at “it runs ok”.
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I'm saying, drive it. Sometimes people get apprehensive at a bit of trouble. Tune away.
 
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