8BA - drilling for "steady rods"

malpais

Well-known member
I read in this forum about drilling an 8BA bell housing and engine for the anti-chatter/steady rods. I tried that and man, the material to be removed is HARD. My drill bits barely touch it! Is this normal? Must be cast steel rather than cast iron? Cast iron is pretty soft.

Unfortunately the engine/bell is already in the truck. Is it easier to build brackets that go on existing bolts?

Thanks,

Gordon
 
Are you using an enclosed drive line? Do you really need the rods? And yes, the block metal is hard to drill (and tap)!!!
 
I used a couple of spring shackle straps. Attached one end with a bell housing bolt and the other to the rod. Worked great.
 
It's probably a matter of how the drill bit is dressed (ground) for speed and material. Drilling different materials can be a science unto itself. Hopefully someone with know-how like Ronnie can chime-in.

Lonnie
 
There was a thread a while back showing a company that makes brackets you bolt to the 8BA block for the steady rods.
 
I am using a closed drive shaft.

Have read a lot of discussion on
needed/not needed, but figured
they were easy to get to right now,
so may as well put them on.

I can make or buy something that
goes on one or two of the bolts but
drilling sounded easy.I may try re-angling
a bit or buying a better one.

Thanks for all the ideas - wonder if I really
need 'em...........

Gordon
 
I've got an 8ba in my '39 p/u with a closed driveline. It had only one steady rod when I bought it. Not much chatter but the trans was not the best. I replaced the trans and choose not to reinstall the rod and only have a very little bit of chatter in reverse when its cold. You might try going without them.
 
Donhunt, I put on straps as you mentioned. Easy job once shoulder on rods ground off. Great idea!

I'm guessing you have determined the straps don't bend? I can reinforce them if needed.

Bill W. Appreciate the reference to Epay!

Gordon
 
1936 roadster 59 Merc engine, I built the engine for a friend, he installed it, the outer bolts on the 8BA bell line right up the rods, he drilled the holes and added a little to the rods and bolted them right up. Walt
 
Walt,

I see the holes (bosses?) that do line up perfectly. If the setup donhunt recommended doesn't work, I'll go get a super drill bit and try again. I extended the rods, but today I ground off the shoulders, extended threads and installed the spring shackle straps as he described. Seems like it will work fine.

I have to investigate where the mount bolts get positioned - the slots in the ****** mounts give me enough room to screw it up.

Thanks, Gordon
 
We had a discussion about driil bits on the "Ford Flathead 32-53" forum. Here is a post I made :

"I have done a bit more research on drill bits. What Doug said about titanium coated bits is the same as what I've found; they are good until they need to be sharpened (or the coating wears off), and the you have just another HSS bit even if you do sharpen it. I've looked a little harder at cobalt bits, and to me, they look like the answer. Cobalt bits come in 4 types; coated, M32, M45, and M56. The coated bits have the same problems as the coated titanium bits as they are just coated. I don't think we have to concern ourselves with M56 bits as the are very hard and brittle, expensive, and difficult to find. I believe they would be overkill in our garages. This leaves M32 and M45. These are both cobalt/steel alloys, so they can be sharpened and not lose their hardness and heat resistant qualities. The M32 bits are 5% cobalt, while the M45 bits are 8% cobalt. The M45's, having a higher percentage of cobalt are a little harder and more heat resistant than M32's. This also makes them more brittle and prone to breakage. Cobalt bits usually have shallower flutes and a more robust shafts than regular bits, which makes clearing chips a little more difficult. Also, they work best when used in an environment of controlled speed and pressure (think drill press)."

"Moderators : Delete the following if deemed too commercial."

"After looking around, I am going to buy a set of USA made M45's by Chicago Latrobe from Amazon. They are spilt point 135 degree bits. All of their sets have stellar reviews (21 reviews with 19 5's and 2 4's in one case). Their set of bits from 1/16 to 1/2 in 64's increment is $169.50. This is a lot of dough, but if it's the last set I buy, it'll be worth it. More than one reviewer said you'll probably wear 'em out before you break 'em."
 
Thanks for the education! Will help me know what to look for. Wonder if Granger might have the ones I need...

Hope your in the Keys this week instead of up North.

Gordon
 
Of course there is something to be said for having a good drill bit for the job. However, one big issue with drilling anything that is out of position is being able to apply proper pressure. It is always better to begin with a smaller diameter and work up to the final diameter.
 
In the original thread on the other forum there were several replies from seemingly knowledgeable people who pointed out that technique (proper speed and pressure) are as important as the quality of the drill bit.

And Gordon, I am in the Keys now. (It was -16 in Breezy Point yesterday morning; I am too old for that).
 
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I use a carbide insert masonry drill dressed like a normal drill, tough enough to drill through a file.
Probably not tight enough on the tolerance to tap though.
 
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