8BA compression issues

B&S, These are the best pictures that I can get with my phone. There are some residual bits of the head gasket on the walls and the pistons which I haven't removed.
 

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Hey Mr. Laser - do you see any hone cross-hatch marks in the cylinders? I don't think I can make any out (might just be the pictures)? As this engine is new - was wondering if the rebuilder did the "normal" stuff that we always do . . . which is all about getting the new rings to seat.
 
B&S, it doesn't appear that there is any significant cross hatching. As I mentioned above, the records of the build were lost by the movers and the builder has passed away. I did notice a significant jump in compression, on repeat testing, with added oil. From 65 psi to 90 psi. What would you suggest might be my options? Thanks for your help.
 
It's a bit frustrating, coming at the end of an 8 year restoration project. But. As they say "you need to play the hand you've been delt"
 

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If you're running close to 90 lbs on all cylinders button it up and start it. as long as there is not much over 5 lbs difference between cylinders. Once the motor is run and warmed up the compression will be even higher. Also the elevation plays a slight role in compression. The compression will be slightly lower a say 5,000 ft. as opposed to sea level.
 
That’s a beautiful car!!!...what ever it takes to get to the end result.......will be well worth all your efforts.....Congratulations!!!......Mark
 
If you're getting 65 - 90 lbs at cranking speed, I'd get it back together, get it started (check for leaks and retorque the heads) and then I'd put it under highway load as soon as possible. It will be key for the rings to seat and it kind of looks like there isn't much cross-hatching or honing in the cylinders.

Don't make the mistake of letting it idle/run for a long time in the garage - get it on the highway and do some heavy acceleration runs. The last thing you need is to glaze down the cylinders - the rings will never seat and you'll have perpetually low compression and low power.

Once you've done that at least a half dozen times, then drive it for a good length of time (couple hours) - with varying speeds and accelerations. Then take it home, let it cool down and do another compression check - you'll then know if things are in good shape or not.

Best of luck - you've been working your butt off on this - we're all hoping for a great outcome!

B&S
 
B&S has the same opinion as I do...Get everything ready to drive, fire it up, do a quick check for leaks,noises and check the ignition timing. Then get on the road and drive it as suggested. Nothing wrong with fairly heavy load for short bursts-it'll help seat the rings. Idling is bad so keep that to a minimum at first. Monitor the gauges and enjoy the ride!



Terry
 
Thanks everyone for all your help and suggestions. I will keep posting with any progress. Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 
With that being a fresh engine and I might assume a reground cam or new it may be wise to use a break in oil in the beginning. Due to the lack of Zinc in today's oils. And add a dose of additive at each oil change. I realize flatheads don't have the valve spring pressure a ohv has but it is good insurance. I myself use Royal Purple break in but I'm sure there are other brands just as good. Just be sure it states fortified with a healthy dose of Zinc
 
Will do. I am hopeful that there will be a need for the break in process. I appreciate everyone's thoughtful suggestions and help. I have learned a lot.
 
Sorry for the radio silence. I'm away for the Thanksgiving holiday. I will definitely report my experience asap. Thanks for your concern and curiosity.
 
I am getting ready to attempt to start the motor. The engine is installed in a '51 Ford. Everything is stock including a positive ground, 6 volt system with a 1 year old Optima battery. This was the first year of the later, more common key start ignition. During prior attempts to start the engine, the rate at which the starter turned the motor over seemed somewhat slow. Utilizing a 6 volt boost charger helped somewhat. Others have mentioned using a 12 volt battery to provide a faster rotation to facilitate starting. If I were to do that, would I connect the battery directly to the starter, or put it in place of the 6 volt battery. The only 6 volt accessory which is supplied with continuous, non switched, power is the clock. The coil is a new 6 volt variety supplied by one of the early Ford suppliers. Would it likely have an internal resistor? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
I have a '51 Ford with a 255" Mercury and Edmunds heads, which should be as hard, if not harder, to spin over that your engine. An Optima spins it over just fine. Before resorting to a 12 volt jump, I would spend some time inspecting and cleaning ALL of the connections, Including grounds. A 12 volt should not be necessary.
 
Many times with a rebuilt flathead the first time you try to start they crank slowly. This is usually because of the seal on the oil pan. Once you do get the motor started and it runs for a short time it will loosen up when the seal wears in. If you are concerned about 12 volt to your gauges etc. on the starter solenoid on the side from the battery you may see a other wire on that solenoid post also. If you remove that wire off that post (approx 10 ga.) that pretty much cuts power to the gauges radio headlights heater etc. You will need to then hot wire the ignition and cross the solenoid under the hood. The cable that goes from battery to solenoid. That post on solenoid to the small post on solenoid. If your coil is hooked up proper hotwire goes to - post on coil. Just stay away from the dist. side of coil so you don't cook points. Once the motor has run for 5 minutes or so it should start easily on 6 volt and remember not to let slow idle. You need to break the cam in.
 
You can use a 12volt but just hook to starter, you don't want 12 volts going to the rest of the car. If it turns slow when cold it will probably be worse when warmed up. Was the starter rebuilt?
 
Are the battery cables #00 gauge, very heavy duty? Common cables carried in auto parts stores are #2 or #4, made for 12v systems, nowhere near up to the 600 amps a 6v car draws in cold weather.
 
Thanks for the input. I will , of course, try with just the 6 volt alone and possibly with the 6 volt boost. I did notice, before the latest tear down, that the compression readings were 10-15 PSI greater when the 6 volt boost was applied. That's why I wondered about the use of 12 volts to aid with starting. The cables are less than a year old and were purchased from a major early ford supplier. Unfortunately no description as to the wire gauge was listed in the catalog. They were, however listed for the '50-'53 V8. I will check on all the connections prior to attempting to start the engine. Should it actually start, I will only run it for a few minutes since the rings are not seated and it will not be under varying loads.
 
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