8BA Carb and loadomatic Distributor.

Phil Gillespie

Phil Gillespie

Well-known member
So just recently have parted ways with my 38 Barrel Nose. Replaced it with
an Australian 1951 Ford Twin Spinner, coupe ute. Was rebuilt approx 10 yrs plus in Australia and imported by previous owner, who I know some 10 yrs ago.
Going through a few things and the 8BA engine is running the 8BA model Holley 94 to the original loadomatic distributor.
Checked timing, vacuum line disconnected, and got 7 degrees btdc, rpm 420. vacuum 18". Adjusted intial timing from 7 to 5 degrees btdc using vacuum gauge which gave me 19". Rechecked with vacuum line connected to verify total advance, Running the engine up got full advance of 24 degrees Coming all in at 1200rpm, and there it stayed at this advance up till 2500rpm.
Seems to drive ok at this. I think the distributor has been serviced in the past so cant comment on any internal adjustments or mods internally with springs etc.
Jets as fitte to carb are 50"s with a 6.5 PV. Plugs looked ok, Champion H10 but went with NGK B6L.
I'm feeling this present set up is fine. Its running the original fitted Mercury diff. 3.92. At 60mph its not screaming its head off. Running 205R 16C radials front and back.
The main query being distributor set up operation. I believe how it is is fine.
Nil electronics or mods been fitted. Still running origiinal 6v system. New battery fitted.
Interseted in any observations and advice.
Many thanks,

Phil NZ
Twin Spinner 1.jpg

Twin Spinner 2.jpg

Twin Spinner 5.jpg

Phil Nz
 
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Phil Gillespie said:
So just recently have parted ways with my 38 Barrel Nose. Replaced it with
an Australian 1951 Ford Twin Spinner, coupe ute. Was rebuilt approx 10 yrs plus in Australia and imported by previous owner, who I know some 10 yrs ago.
Going through a few things and the 8BA engine is running the 8BA model Holley 94 to the original loadomatic distributor.
Checked timing, vacuum line disconnected, and got 7 degrees btdc, rpm 420. vacuum 18". Adjusted intial timing from 7 to 5 degrees btdc using vacuum gauge which gave me 19". Rechecked with vacuum line connected to verify total advance, Running the engine up got full advance of 24 degrees Coming all in at 1200rpm, and there it stayed at this advance up till 2500rpm.
Seems to drive ok at this. I think the distributor has been serviced in the past so cant comment on any internal adjustments or mods internally with springs etc.
Jets as fitte to carb are 50"s with a 6.5 PV. Plugs looked ok, Champion H10 but went with NGK B6L.
I'm feeling this present set up is fine. Its running the original fitted Mercury diff. 3.92. At 60mph its not screaming its head off. Running 205R 16C radials front and back.
The main query being distributor set up operation. I believe how it is is fine.
Nil electronics or mods been fitted. Still running origiinal 6v system. New battery fitted.
Interseted in any observations and advice.
Many thanks,Phil Nz
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588622
 
First off, I really like your Ute. I was never really sold on the loadomatic distributor on the stock 8ba in my '39 p/u so years ago I went with a Chevy distributor that Buba (RIP) converted. I'm sure that many will say that a properly maintained loadomatic distributor is fine but I'm still sold on the Chevy unit. The only thing I don't like about the Chevy unit is the large window cap. I considered having a Mallory dual point converted by Charlie NY but for the cost I live with the window cap. JMO.
 
Phil, nice looking Shoebox Ute. That bed wood looks great too. I ditched the Load a Matic in my 49 stock 8Ba. Converted to 12v, with a alternator. Using the Mallory dual point with great success. Had it checked by Bubba as well. I'm sure someone has a distributor machine in NZ that can dial in the advance. Also using a Bosch coil, B6L plugs, same carb and jets. Just drove it 250 miles, and no issues. Fires up each time, barely touch the starter button and it is running.
 
Your Ute looks fantastic.

I drive three Early V-8s - two 1950 Fords and a 1951 Mercury. They each have stock engines with stock carbs and stock Load-O-Matic distributors. I drive them thousands of both local and highway miles and see no reason to change the stock distributor.

Ken
 
This is a good link for ignition timing details for the 8BA family of engines.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_tuneup49-53_239-255.htm

Mercury cars were a bit different due to the shrouded 885 Holley and a bit more cam for improved torque but not much difference in timing overall. They had a little dimple on the crank pulley at 2 degrees. This was the initial timing with the vacuum line removed and plugged. Stock flathead V8s didn't need a lot of advance due to the way the fuel charge enters the combustion chamber. It's like a tornado in there.

A change in ignition is really only needed when doing performance modifications such as higher compression heads, multiple carburetors, and higher lift cams & such. The Load-O-Matic system only works with the matching Holley carb anyway so changes in that respect render it useless for higher performance. For stock applications, it works fine.
 
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rotorwrench said:
This is a good link for ignition timing details for the 8BA family of engines.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_tuneup49-53_239-255.htm

Mercury cars were a bit different due to the shrouded 885 Holley and a bit more cam for improved torque but not much difference in timing overall. They had a little dimple on the crank pulley at 2 degrees. This was the initial timing with the vacuum line removed and plugged. Stock flathead V8s didn't need a lot of advance due to the way the fuel charge enters the combustion chamber. It's like a tornado in there.

A change in ignition is really only needed when doing performance modifications such as higher compression heads, multiple carburetors, and higher lift cams & such. The Load-O-Matic system only works with the matching Holley carb anyway so changes in that respect render it useless for higher performance. For stock applications, it woks fine.
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Yep my setup is stock. But noted in Van-Pelt info showing a max advance of 11 degrees where as my set up is giving 24 degrees max advance. Since this loadomatic is only vacuum advance I would think the modification of springs internally is allowing this extra advance. I consider it runs fine and will continue to observe. The "extra" advance I am able to get is what I should like comments/observations on. The 38 barrel nose I just sold had an 8BA in it with one of Charlies Chev distributors, mechanical and vacuum advance this ran at 24 degrees max advance. Hence why I consider my existing set up is fine. Have a spare carb with the vacuum connection so will rebuild and go with 51 jets and 6.5 PV.
Thanks
Phil NZ
 
I always heard the maximum advance for a flathead was in he low twenties. Yours sounds fine, especially if it runs as well as you say.

All together now : "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.":D
 
tubman said:
I always heard the maximum advance for a flathead was in he low twenties. Yours sounds fine, especially if it runs as well as you say.

All together now : "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.":D
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Yep thats my thinking, stock standard gear. All running to date on the flat but with the Mercury rear end 3.92 should be fine. The rear guards extended out to accomodate the wider mercury rear end. Following models blended this into bodywork better.
Phil NZ
 
I have the "loads of magic" distributor and Holley 94. I put a lot of effort into rebuilding the carb, fuel pump, and getting the timing right in my 51 Custom. It starts instantly and runs smooth and reliably now. The only reason I would change is to go with a more modern carb or a twin carb set up. The engine pulls a rock steady 20" of vacuum. Now that it is running good I can concentrate on suspension, wiring, and a few cosmetic issues. Engine performance upgrades can wait.
 
Steve51 said:
I have the "loads of magic" distributor and Holley 94. I put a lot of effort into rebuilding the carb, fuel pump, and getting the timing right in my 51 Custom. It starts instantly and runs smooth and reliably now. The only reason I would change is to go with a more modern carb or a twin carb set up. The engine pulls a rock steady 20" of vacuum. Now that it is running good I can concentrate on suspension, wiring, and a few cosmetic issues. Engine performance upgrades can wait.
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That again is a good endorsement for ensuring existing distributor and csrb are set up best for best operation. The carb on it was done some years ago, runs fine. Have a good spare carb and have kit on the way. Plan to rebuild it with 51 jets and 6.5 power valve. All the best with your vehicle. Always like to have a vacuum gauge fitted for setting up carb/distributor.
Phil NZ
 
Phil be sure the power valve is correct in the kit you have coming. Many kits have the wrong valve. They use a Holley power valve that is incorrect. It will fit nicely but will not seal as it is not made correctly to suit the 94 style carburetor.
 
KiWinUS said:
Phil be sure the power valve is correct in the kit you have coming. Many kits have the wrong valve. They use a Holley power valve that is incorrect. It will fit nicely but will not seal as it is not made correctly to suit the 94 style carburetor.
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I second this statement. The issue is where the threaded portion meets the body of the valve. This is a radius and not a sharp 90 degree angle. The radius rests on the edge of the hole it screws into preventing a tight fit on the gasket. In newer carbs the edge of this hole is slightly larger allowing the radius to fit inside the hole. It is my understanding that old style valves are not available but there are sources for modified valves where this radius is removed. I did it myself with a small square file, patience, and a light touch. I suppose a thicker gasket may work but none of the ones in the kit where thick enough.
 
Steve51 said:
I second this statement. The issue is where the threaded portion meets the body of the valve. This is a radius and not a sharp 90 degree angle. The radius rests on the edge of the hole it screws into preventing a tight fit on the gasket. In newer carbs the edge of this hole is slightly larger allowing the radius to fit inside the hole. It is my understanding that old style valves are not available but there are sources for modified valves where this radius is removed. I did it myself with a small square file, patience, and a light touch. I suppose a thicker gasket may work but none of the ones in the kit where thick enough.
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Daytona Carburetor have the correct valves and kits with correct valves.
 
KiWinUS said:
Daytona Carburetor have the correct valves and kits with correct valves.
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Thanks Tony Will go with PV from them. Do have a few to check out here also.
Got a kit on the way from local source so will ensure I have correct PV.
She runs good on the flat. Will get the real test to West Coast. Porters Pass, Arthurs Pass and Otira are a great testing ground of a vehicles performance.
Phil NZ
 
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