8BA block cracked

T

Tony Burdett

Member
I’ve just lifted the heads on by 8BA 1950 pickup and found four cracks on both banks between the bolt holes and water jackets l have been told these can be laser welded but would like an opinion on the merits of thread inserts over welding. Also could someone explain how approximately three pints of water could get into the sump oil via these cracks, thanks
 
Those cracks from bolt holes to water jackets are usually harmless. If you got water in oil you might have panrail crack? better pull that oil pan also.
 
You should post pictures of the deck surface and highlight/point to where the cracks are. There are plenty of flathead blocks with cracks between a couple studs and the water jackets - in areas that are NOT a concern.

Question: What do the tops of the pistons look like? Are any of them "washed" from water getting into the combustion chambers? Do you see any signs of water having been in the chambers?

If not, then the water in your oil did not come from a crack that allowed water to get into the pistons/chambers . . . and then down into the oil.

There are multiple ways that water can get into the oil pan . . . and as 21Stud noted, one of the more common ways is via a crack in the oil-pan mounting rail. This is usually a result of freezing.
 
There is a YouTube video putting inserts in the holes and calling it a day.You could install without pulling motor.
 
Would the pan rail crack be visible from outside the block or inside ,at the moment the engine is covered in grime but I’m washing it off tomorrow and taking the oil pan off
 
Tony Burdett said:
Would the pan rail crack be visible from outside the block or inside ,at the moment the engine is covered in grime but I’m washing it off tomorrow and taking the oil pan off
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It would only be visible (usually) if you pull the pan, clean the gasket surface, wire brush it and see if you see any cracks that run from pan bolt to pan bolt. Usually the problem is pretty evident once the pan is off and the block gasket surface cleaned.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
It would only be visible (usually) if you pull the pan, clean the gasket surface, wire brush it and see if you see any cracks that run from pan bolt to pan bolt. Usually the problem is pretty evident once the pan is off and the block gasket surface cleaned.
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Found a large crack along the block running along the sump surface and then on the inside surface of the block
 

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That sucks . . . there is no viable repair method that I would recommend or attempt to use. You'll need to find another block.
 
Tony Burdett said:
Gloucestershire U/K. Not too many 8BA blocks over here. As a matter of interest what would a good block cost in the USA?
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A known good block (one that is cleaned, pressure tested, and mag'd and this work can be proven) with a bore size at under .030", I would say between $750-$1000. Could be more now days.
 
Always remember,,,,,technology is getting better,,,,,what could not have been repaired in the past,,, might be done now ,,,or in the future .
Check H and H or some others,,,,,you never know ?
I don’t know if H and H will just sell a block outright or not ?
Good luck .

Tommy
 
Yeah, sorry Tony, That one is a no-hoper. I have a 59A here with similar damage. As you (probably) know, they do turn up on UK ebay but are expensive and are never sold as known good units. They are just as found and may have the same or worse faults. Prices for these "gambles" are ridiculously high.
Mart.
 
Mart, I was hoping you'd opine when I saw where Tony was located...thinking if anyone would know where he could find a usable block, you would!!

And, maybe in your network, you might come across one!!:)
 
Yes there are several on eBay and UK sites “ sold as seen” but I would agree it would be unwise to buy something that may very well have the same problem. It’s a shame because the rest of the engine is in good condition. I’ve still got loads of rust patching, chassis work and paint to do, hoping something may turn up in the meantime.
 
Tony Burdett said:
Yes there are several on eBay and UK sites “ sold as seen” but I would agree it would be unwise to buy something that may very well have the same problem. It’s a shame because the rest of the engine is in good condition. I’ve still got loads of rust patching, chassis work and paint to do, hoping something may turn up in the meantime.
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I've been thinking about this and, by no means, is it meant to be a fail safe repair.

Would it be possible to force some modern epoxy into the crack and clamp it all along while it sets up?
 
Tony Burdett said:
Yes there are several on eBay and UK sites “ sold as seen” but I would agree it would be unwise to buy something that may very well have the same problem. It’s a shame because the rest of the engine is in good condition. I’ve still got loads of rust patching, chassis work and paint to do, hoping something may turn up in the meantime.
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Tony... May I send you a message or e-mail in regards to a good block for you? I have a possible solution.

Sent from my LM-K500 using Tapatalk
 
Tony Burdett said:
Found a large crack along the block running along the sump surface and then on the inside surface of the block
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Hi Tony; Sorry to read about your block. You do have an opportunity to practice some porting and anything else you might like to try. One door closes and another one opens. Good luck, Craig.
 
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