8ba 275 carb options

miniceptor86 said:
Excuse my ignorance. What is JWL’s book?
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"JWL" is John W. Lawson, a most-knowledgeable and experienced flathead guy, whom unfortunately, we just lost this past year. You can get the book at Amazon, or at Mac VanPelt's site. This is THE flathead book!

Coop


d3c44adac785180771026f13437ea155.jpg
 
Ok so far here’s the plan/build
C1ba(8ba) block, 4”crank, 3 5/16 pistons .030 over, EAB-A camshaft(not sure what the “A” stands for), ford 8ba aluminum heads, (I have one eab head lying around but could never find the other side), adjustable lifters, stock ford intake(for now), stock distributer(for now), looks like I can rob an aluminum cam gear from one of my other engines
Anything I’m forgetting? Il be checking the piston to head clearance tonight
 
This gives 280 Pus ci. I have the same engine in my truck, along with the EAB cam as well, Intake is a merc with 2GC carb and a chevy distributor. Rear axle is a spicer 44 with 3.73 gears and posi. Trans is a T170 with 3 spd OD In a 47 Int KB1 Took the truck to the Weston, Andover hill in VT and drove the truck up in OD to the top of this 14% Maintaining 50 MPH. Unfortunately, The speed droped to 43 MPH over the top engine was turning 1300 RPM The torque of this engine is un believable. Truck is fore sale
Gramps
 
Ol' Ron said:
This gives 280 Pus ci. I have the same engine in my truck, along with the EAB cam as well, Intake is a merc with 2GC carb and a chevy distributor. Rear axle is a spicer 44 with 3.73 gears and posi. Trans is a T170 with 3 spd OD In a 47 Int KB1 Took the truck to the Weston, Andover hill in VT and drove the truck up in OD to the top of this 14% Maintaining 50 MPH. Unfortunately, The speed droped to 43 MPH over the top engine was turning 1300 RPM The torque of this engine is un believable. Truck is fore sale
Gramps
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And for a driver torque is more desirable than hp?
 
Alberta50fordor said:
And for a driver torque is more desirable than hp?
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Oh YEAH! Torque is the force that makes your face look pleasingly-funny as you get on it. In other words, torque is what causes your butt to be plastered into the seat as you accelerate through the gears.

Coop

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It is known that Torque and Horsepower are always equal at 5252 RPM. Given that even a reasonably modified flathead will never approach the RPM, what do you think?

Real Racers need not respond; That's a completely different set of circumstances.
 
pulled a piston out and found the rod bearings to be the floating style(one bearing for two rods) is this good or bad? connecting rod journals have two oil holes, short skirt(for a flathead) 3 ring pistons
 
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tubman said:
It is known that Torque and Horsepower are always equal at 5252 RPM. Given that even a reasonably modified flathead will never approach the RPM, what do you think?

Real Racers need not respond; That's a completely different set of circumstances.
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Horsepower was an early sales gimmick so that prospective buyers of steam power could relate the the steam engine’s power to the familiar horse.
 
Torque without engine speed is useless. I can apply whatever you want with my arm and a long enough bar. Physics tells us that power moves and accelerates things including our Fords.
 
JayChicago said:
Whaaat?! Never heard that before. Please explain.
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As "miniceptor86" said in an earlier post : "Horsepower was an early sales gimmick so that prospective buyers of steam power could relate the the steam engine’s power to the familiar horse." Horsepower is an extrapolation from the torque reading, calculated by a formula. Since it is a merely a calculation, there is always one value where it will be equal.
 
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In my 41 Pickup with a 4 speed ****** I have a late block 276 CID with an L100 cam, 3-97's, Offie heads and crab ignition. It runs great with good pull thru the gears. Drive it around town often. I wouldn't change a thing.
 
Tubman & Coopman
Thanks for the explanations. I learned something. I get the 5252 RPMs isn't meaningful, is just a number-crunching value in the formula. What is meaningful is: "Horsepower is an extrapolation from the torque reading, calculated by a formula." I did not know that.
 
When building an engine, consider the application. This usually cost less, and gives better gas mileage.
Gramps
 
Ol' Ron said:
This gives 280 Pus ci. I have the same engine in my truck, along with the EAB cam as well, Intake is a merc with 2GC carb and a chevy distributor. Rear axle is a spicer 44 with 3.73 gears and posi. Trans is a T170 with 3 spd OD In a 47 Int KB1 Took the truck to the Weston, Andover hill in VT and drove the truck up in OD to the top of this 14% Maintaining 50 MPH. Unfortunately, The speed droped to 43 MPH over the top engine was turning 1300 RPM The torque of this engine is un believable. Truck is fore sale
Gramps
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What air cleaner do you guys run on the 2GC? I'm considering trying that carb with merc intake out first(i lucked out and found an aluminum merc intake at a swap meet) is there anything else I need to look for/modify? how do you have your throttle linkage set up? I just put in a stromberg e-fire distributor the other night so ignition system is covered does anyone make a phenolic spacer for the chevy carb or have you guys found those ones don't boil as bad?
 
I use this unit from Speedway Motors or Amazon. On the chance that it might be restrictive, I ordered another element and made a longer center stud and run two elements stacked one on top of the other. It looks good, works good, and still fits under the hood of my '51 with good clearance. (Sorry about using a link rather than a picture; for some reason I can't attach a 250K .jpg this morning after doing it successfully for years.):confused:

https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Cleaner-Barrel-Carb/dp/B075NQR3M4?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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jimvette59 said:
FYI, I have a 67 327 300 hp SBC with a wcfb that the primaries are 15/16 the same size as a 94
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The last production 327/300 small block Chevy was in '66, and they came with Cater AFB carbs since the first one in '62.
I assume your '67 had come parts swapped.

Sal
 
tubman said:
I use this unit from Speedway Motors or Amazon. On the chance that it might be restrictive, I ordered another element and made a longer center stud and run two elements stacked one on top of the other. It looks good, works good, and still fits under the hood of my '51 with good clearance. (Sorry about using a link rather than a picture; for some reason I can't attach a 250K .jpg this morning after doing it successfully for years.):confused:

https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Cleaner-Barrel-Carb/dp/B075NQR3M4?tag=atomicindus08-20
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sweet thanks, i should've taken you up on your offer a while back about going into detail about your set up, what do you have for throttle linkage? how did you bore the intake out? just a die grinder or something more precise?
 
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