8ABA engine distributor?

Derek, I think you should slow down and do a little more reading and researching about what you are trying to do. If you really do have 80 lbs of oil pressure at cold idle like you said in another thread here, that's a problem and you should find out what's going on there before you worry about your ignition.

A word to the wise.
 
As for a distributor, first decide if you want vacuum over mechanical advance, or just mechanical. You then get a suitable SBC distributor (either GM or aftermarket) and send it to one of several guys on here who convert these distributors for use in a flathead, "Charlie ny" is the one I have used and he is A number 1. I would actually discuss with him what you want to do and he can probably recommend or supply the proper distributor core that best fits your needs. Then have him do the conversion. If you are a glutton for punishment, get the Pertronix kit of your choice and have that installed (or do it yourself).

When he does the conversion, he will set up a good standard advance curve that should work just fine in 99% of the cases. Fine tuning beyond that will be in your hands. There is excellent aftermarket support for weights and springs for SBC distributors, so you should not be hurting for any parts you might need.
 
derek costello said:
OK tell me where I can buy a modern mechanical advance distributor for a 52 mercury flathead ? It must have adjustable advance and have provision for electronic spark control (Pertronix) and have the supported bottom bearing shaft
like the original..........
Click to expand...

Try Mallory Unilight. I used one for years in my Pontiac 462” with zero issues. Around $350.
 
"Bubba" - I didn't mean to ignore you, I just thought you were enjoying your well-deserved retirement. If you still have your hand in this (even just a little bit), it's to everyone's benefit.:)
 
I just looked at the Barns converted GM distributors and they look pretty good...

But am I to under stand the shaft that has the gear is cutoff and doesn't extend down into the 8BA bearing??
 
derek,
As with Bubba's sbc conversions mine have the shaft that extends past the gear. If your timing cover does not have the lower bushing just chop off the extension. Additionally as received his and mine will work in ANY timing cover.....we are both very
non exclusionary.
Charlie ny
 
The conversion I bought very early after these became available had the extended shaft but it was too big for the lower support hole in the aluminum cover. I eventually cut the extension off. Without the extension, the distributor tried to "wallow" around in the cover unless the hold down bolt was really tight. Fearing a lot of stress was put on the aluminum distributor, I sent it to Charlie to install a new shaft with the extension machined to fit the cover's lower support hole. All the instability disappeared with the new shaft. The aluminum cover with the lower support hole doesn't provide nearly as much support/stability in the upper section as an iron cover without the lower hole provides.
 
OK that is what I wanted to here is that the remanufactured distributors HAVE

the extended distributor shaft lower support bearing.

This seems very necessary for gear engagement and stability.
 
I like the aluminum timing covers. You can polish them and they weigh 5 lbs less than the cast iron cover. I run 'em when I can find 'em.
 
I actually wasn't suggesting the use of the cast iron cover. I haven't used one to base an opinion that one is better than the other. I was only saying that I had distributor wobble in the aluminum cover until the bottom support hole was utilized.
 
Last edited:
I'm trying out a Mallory Unilite hooked up to a CB Performance black box. I can control everything through a laptop and most importantly, I can pull the timing down as the boost comes up. The motor should be back in the car this weekend and ready to roll in a week or two!!
 
jrvariel48 said:
I'm trying out a Mallory Unilite hooked up to a CB Performance black box. I can control everything through a laptop and most importantly, I can pull the timing down as the boost comes up. The motor should be back in the car this weekend and ready to roll in a week or two!!
Click to expand...

This post tells me something. "jrvariel" has a specific purpose to his build and knows what he needs. "Derek Costello", on the other hand, has not given us any information about the vehicle he has or it's purpose : Sunday Cruises or Bonneville racing? I think we know he has a '52 Mercury engine, but beyond that, we don't have any idea of what he is trying to accomplish. Given this situation, I don't see how we can provide any meaningful advice beyond a few generalities.
 
Sorry bout that........ Quick street use........ engine is in a 1934 ford pickup with a

mustang 5speed T5, and 3:73 Ranger rear-end, Triangulated 4 bar, and

conventional ford leaf spring front-end. all steel , full fendered, all steel, un-cut

pickup.....
 
I am waiting on a new aluminum timing gear, when it is installed I will restart the engine with fresh 20-50- VR1 oil and all new valves and seats hopefully next week.

I will then get a new reading on my oil pressure gage, both cold and warmed up
( my last report disturbed some members at 80psi). so I will see what happens this time......................
 
I got an aluminum gear in mine since 1949-51 Mercury advertised truck powertrains for quality and performance in some back in the day sales brochures and it's noisy! The original set, aluminum and steel was all pitted from years of rattling as well and when I tear my 255 down for new gaskets and seals after 35 years of use AND if the gear is shlonged I will throw a fiber one in!! They worked in the Fords and what got me is I would hear a rattle at 62 miles per hour! Ignition preignition, loose engine components?? Finally I realized its that stupid gear perhaps resonating or rattling at certain engine rpm's and I hear this accelerating before I shift. As for the distributor, a 6 volt battery, positive ground of course, a GOOD brand of points and condenser, and of course make sure the bushing is in good shape and not worn and sloppy. The advance springs can be checked using a timing light as well and tweaked. China ain't allowed in my 70 year old Mercury as well! The only thing know to work from them is Corona!
 
I would be careful about using a fiber timing gear. There have been reports that the replacements currently available fail in as little as 2000 miles. If you can find a NOS gear, you may be OK, but there is no way I would put a used fiber timing gear in an engine I cared about;

In addition, I have aluminum timing gears in two engines and am disappointed in the fact that they are no more noisy than a stock fiber gear. I you sure there wasn't some other problem?
 
I agree with Tubman. I've been running and for 25 years and don't hear any extra noise. If you're hearing bad noise, you've got some other problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top