83 yr old Technology , the Front axle

Up date , I checked The ball seem's ok , no tear & not worn , but seems soft .
I removed the 15x6 205 /75/15 and replaced with 16x4.5 550 R 16's .
Test drove , still shimmies around 60 mph ,
Check the front end again , No prolblems found ,
Check the box , .025 thousands play at pitman arm end , " sector shaft " measured the play at the very end where hole is ,
And .010 thousands play "mesh at worm " side to side "
Adjusted , I can not beleave How much better it steer's , not chaseing the steering Now
But still Shimmy's at 60 mph ,
In the next week or so , I will be changing the Axel to One that is set at 0 on the camber,
To see if that solves the shimmy
 
As Ron said King pin inclination or SAI causes 50% of shimmy with beam axles cars
check your scrub radius
 
TIE ROD ENDS, TIE ROD ENDS !!! You stated that they had no play, but you may not feel any play. Remove the split pins and disassemble each end and make sure all the correct cups and springs are inside and assembled correctly. Read the ford parts book for the correct order. Fit new kits and springs if required. Those springs should be bloody strong and over the years they can become weaker. Don't forget the drag link ends as well. Regards Kevin.
 
19ED30 said:
I have been reading about death wobble , when these cars were engineered and Built there was no paved roads they weren't Driven at 50 and 60 mph on smooth roads .
I want to know if I can get a Stock 1932 front axle , stock wish bone to drive like the
Cross steer 4 bar on my 1930 , I need to check the ball on the wish bone , that the only thing I have no checked,
I do Not have death wobble, A shimmy , car feel like it's following the seams in the road ,
But no seam seen,
Click to expand...

My dad used to tell about how his friend pegged the 90mph speedometer on his '32 3-window on a freshly-graded West Virginia S.R. 259. No "death wobble". It's like everything else on our beloved Flatheads...if they're not in good shape, they have problems. If they're in good mechanical shape, they are absolutely remarkable vehicles which can easily do things that are astounding!
 
I had death wobble and found that A small bit of play in the box and a loose wheel bearing set up a oscillation in the wheel .I tightened the wheel and it went away .Ted
 
rt34 said:
Check your tie rod ends. are you ret rod. also check all shackles and bushings
Click to expand...

As I've been reading this thread, I kept tryingto remember the "panhard bar" term. I think you got to have one if the shackles are not set up real tight from the spring to the axle...

When I set up my front end, I thought I was going to go for a dropped axle. I've decided not to. As a consequence, I am running about 9 or 10 degrees camber. I like it. Am also running a VW super beetle front steering shock.

I've had it up past eighty, solid as a rock.

Karl
 
I was So surprised , That little as this movement in Box
Was a Jurassic change in Chaseing the wheel while Driving & Hard Steer!!!
I was Ready to Pull Box & Rebuild ,

CHECK YOUR BOX
Mine was , .025 thousands play at pitman arm end , " sector shaft " measured the play at the very end where hole is ,
And .010 thousands play "mesh at worm " side to side "
Adjust
 
19ED30 said:
?????
correct cups and springs are inside and assembled correctly
What is Koates referring to ??
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I am referring to the type of tie rod ends that were fitted to fords from the model T to 1934. I see you don't know what I am talking about as it seems you have later ball joint type ends on your tie rods. Your car is a long way from being anywhere near an original 1932 ford. Its now a hot rod in which case it could have any type of components fitted. Im sorry but I tend to think of Fords the way they were built when new. This forum is not really directed to highly modified cars. Good luck with your project. Regards, Kevin.
 
koates said:
I am referring to the type of tie rod ends that were fitted to fords from the model T to 1934. I see you don't know what I am talking about as it seems you have later ball joint type ends on your tie rods. Your car is a long way from being anywhere near an original 1932 ford. Its now a hot rod in which case it could have any type of components fitted. Im sorry but I tend to think of Fords the way they were built when new. This forum is not really directed to highly modified cars. Good luck with your project. Regards, Kevin.
Click to expand...

My 30 has original style end's.,

I do not think the 32 is Highly Modified ,
Full Fenderd all steel 32 with 32-40 Ford & Ford style Reproduction Part's ,
It's A Modifie ,
 
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With a radial tire, balance won't always solve problems like tread or belt separation. You can balance on a spin machine but it still won't roll straight. If you can take the tire/wheel off the car and test roll it by itself you may find that it won't track straight when you roll it across a flat surface. This is a good test for tread or belt separation. They will get a little puffy spot that will cause the wheel to wobble when the puffy spot hits the ground. A lot of times you can feel these spots with your hands.

When a stock axle is dropped, it changes the design a bit so a person has to sometimes change the caster and the steering linkage symmetry to get stuff back in to a good working order but it can been done successfully with just the right tweaking of parts. Whom ever drops the axle should be getting the camber into a good spot for the intended spindles to be used. Some Lincoln spindles have to have special camber adjustments to make them work correctly. Most of the dropped axles are set up for round back & square back Ford type spindles.
 
You say it is better but still wants to shimmy @ 60mph.
You may want to look into dyna-beads for balancing your tires.
Little ceramic beads that go inside your tire. I use them on my 34 Kelsey Hayes wheels. Big trucks & rock crawler jeeps use them. Seem pricey but you you only need to do your wheel tire once. They have a web site.
Best of luck getting your problem solved.
B-O-B
 
Krylon32 said:
I've built many 100's of straight axle chassis, with bones, hairpins and 4 bars. Mostly with Vega steering box's. I tell the customer to set the caster from 5 to7 degrees with 1/8 toe with radials and 3/16 with bias tires. I have always assumed the camber was correct on a new axle? Always a panard with cross steer but not with stock style side steer. Over the years I get no negative feedback on death wobble from my customers. If everything is adjusted right and tight there should be no problem. The only car I've experienced death wobble with was a fresh 32 roadster with Schroeder side steer, dropped CE axle, hairpins, and Excelsior radials. Everything was new and I adjusted and adjusted and could not get it to stop. I leaned toward what many on here refer to as a crutch and installed a P&J front stabilizer. WaLa the car went straight with no death wobble at any speed. I am seeing more and more cars with some brand of stabilizer at shows the past couple of years. Right or wrong they do help in certain instances.
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A Nother Up date , now with 16x4.5 wheels Radial Excelsior tires ,
Befor I installed a drop axel, I whent threw checking & adjusting steering & components, No problem found , I made up a pan bar ,
I thought I solved the death wobble , WRONG !!
But now I could Execrate threw the death wobble , ( when it occurred @ low speed's)
So I installed the drop Axel, and reused all part's , Test drove No death wobble or shimmy so far ,(up to 80)
The only thing I can see that is different is the wheel scrub ,
Camber from PLUS 1/4 ( Original ) to 0 or Neg 1 degree On new axle .
Now it seem a little darty , so I moved the drag link from the top of the the sterring arm to the bottom , It help a lot ,
By changing the drag link from top to bottom , it changed the angle 6 deg's ,
The darty feel might be because of the rake now , It seems that rear of the car has raised up 1 1/2 inches now , ( bigger gap between fender & tire )
I will try to dearch rear spring & take a few leafs out ,

Does any one know the correct clocking of the spokes for 1932 ford sterring wheel ?
I have checked Greenbook , 32 restoration book & Internet ,
Should the Spokes be @ 10 -2 -6
12 -8-4
1- 5-9
:confused:
 
In my opinion, if everything is correct:, there is no trouble.
My STOCK 32 front end, with a dropped axle, lever shocks
will run to 90 mph (as fast as I've ever had it). No issues at all
Very stable, no funny issues
Flathead powered 2 door sedan
 
Kahuna said:
In my opinion, if everything is correct:, there is no trouble.
My STOCK 32 front end, with a dropped axle, lever shocks
will run to 90 mph (as fast as I've ever had it). No issues at all
Very stable, no funny issues
Flathead powered 2 door sedan
Click to expand...

Now there is no issue, ( shimmy / death wobble ) A stock 32 Axel has a PLUS .250 thousands/ 1/4 inch of Camber ,Built into the Axel from Ford ,
A stock 32 axle that has been dropped or a aftermarket ONE has a 0 zero or a minus 1 degree of Camber with = equals Less Wheel Scrub
 
To your question about steering wheel orientation. Both 10 -2 - 6 and 12 - 8 - 4 are correct as Ford had 2 steering wheel vendors who placed the keyway in opposite sides. David G will know if this is an early /late issue or not.
To find center, use the key on the shaft for position.
My opinion
 
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