79 granada engine noise

F

Ford coupe

Senior Member
79 granada with engine rebuild new bearings rings and lifters TWICE ..Engine startedout with what sounded like lifters so thinking i may have got bad ones replaced those to no avail. it now sounds like no oil up top but after removing top pan i find lots of oil at an idle and oil pressure is very good.. Now the only thing i did not replace was the cam and bearings as they seemed as new..It is not rod or mains i am sure but what sounded like a slight lifter noise when started is getting worse and i can now hear it in the car so getting a bit scaryIt is the 4.1 in line 6 by the way..So i will sign off and hope some specialist sees this and gets back to me...Thanks in advance..
 
Engine started out with what sounded like lifters so thinking i may have got bad ones replaced those to no avail. it now sounds like no oil up top but after removing top pan i find lots of oil at an idle and oil pressure is very good.. Now the only thing i did not replace was the cam and bearings as they seemed as new..
Click to expand...

Did you check lifter lash at re-assembly? Better yet, did you keep the push-rods in proper sequence when removed?

Valve lash is determined by push-rod length in this hydraulic valve-train design. There is a STD length push-rod and 0.20 O/S and U/S lengths.

Varying length lifters and push-rods were also used in this series.
 
KULTULZ said:
Did you check lifter lash at re-assembly? Better yet, did you keep the push-rods in proper sequence when removed?

Valve lash is determined by push-rod length in this hydraulic valve-train design. There is a STD length push-rod and 0.20 O/S and U/S lengths.

Varying length lifters and push-rods were also used in this series.
Click to expand...
That's why I always keep lifter,push rods and rockers in order that they were removed from the engine
 
All push rods were meticulusly put back in place where removed from..timing chain well within specks new tappet rod and tappets seem tight seems like lots of oil up top so a head scratcher..Also head was donewith new guides seals and valves were needed so???
 
Ford coupe said:
All push rods were meticulusly put back in place where removed from ..timing chain well within specks new tappet rod and tappets seem tight seems like lots of oil up top so a head scratcher.

Also head was done with new guides seals and valves were needed so???
Click to expand...

The push-rods (STD-U/S-O/S) are how the final valve lash is arrived at in this type of hydraulic valve-train. Re-use and same position placement of the take-out push-rods has no bearing on arriving at proper valve lash with new tappets and the head re-done.

It is one of three things (IMO), incorrect valve lash, insufficient oil pressure and/or a bad camshaft.

We went through all of this a few months ago didn't we?
 
Yes we did go through this but before he installed new lifters as he and i thought he had got a bad set of chinese lifters ..But changing them did not help...I really dont see any way of adjusting valve lash other than the lengh of the push rod so?? Might have to look at the camshaft...Thanks so much I feel like a nuisance...Harry
 
Flat tappet cam. did you use the zink additive mixed with the oil on start up and run at proper speed for a length of time? New lifters on an old cam can wipe out the cam lobes, and if it's getting louder, that sounds like the problem.
 
Ford coupe said:
Yes we did go through this but before he installed new lifters as he and i thought he had got a bad set of chinese lifters ..But changing them did not help...

I really dont see any way of adjusting valve lash other than the lengh of the push rod so?? Might have to look at the camshaft...Thanks so much I feel like a nuisance...Harry
Click to expand...

WELL, NO.1 you are not a nuisance. You want to know something and you asked.

The only thing I know to do at this point is to verify cam lobe lift and lash.

How did he rebuild an engine without a manual?
 
It may be time to drain the oil and cut open the oil filter. Run a magnet through the oil and see what sticks to it. Read up on how to dissect an oil filter and what to look for.
 
The only thing I could do is copy the pages from the WSM and mail them to you as my copier has a case of no-go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top