7 tooth steering bottom bearing question

B

bwaii64

Junior Member
Trying to put the lights back where they belong, but the ring that the light box fits into spins. What's supposed to hold it still when you turn the wheel?
 
This may help.

Bob
 

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Here is a 7 tooth parts break down.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Content/uploads/7-Tooth-Steering-Box---New-Website-link--3688.pdf

You need the spider with the spring and spider retainer on the shaft, that connects to the light switch rod. You then assemble the light switch and hold in place with the bail.
Part number 30 that holds the bail has a notch at the bottom that holds the housing from turning.

This is similar how the light switch body attaches.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Content/uploads/LIGHT-SWITCH-BODY-MOUNTING-A-1165567-3958.pdf
 
my problem is that part #30 spins. The 4 bolt flange stays the the "ring" with the slot turns. (this ring is part of the bearing retainer on the 7 tooth box) The 2 tooth only has 2 bolts and the ring is separate as in the picture in this thread.

Is there a notch to hold it or do I need a spot of weld?
 
There is a notch at the bottom of #30 There should be 4 bolts that hold part #30 on a seven tooth steering box.

Post a picture of what you have on the end of your steering box where the switch box goes so we can see what you have.
 
bwaii64 said:
my problem is that part #30 spins. The 4 bolt flange stays the the "ring" with the slot turns. (this ring is part of the bearing retainer on the 7 tooth box) The 2 tooth only has 2 bolts and the ring is separate as in the picture in this thread.

Is there a notch to hold it or do I need a spot of weld?[/QUOTE

Snyders doesn't appear to sell that anymore, Brattons have it #5379 -- $72.50, I did weld mine, if you do weld it make sure the notch is pointed exactly downward 90 degrees, before welding, if not the switch handle will not be centered at the steering wheel, just a few tacks will do, in addition be sure the oil hole at the top is pointing up, ------ I added a thin layer of epoxy around where it was welded it may leak a little.
Click to expand...
 
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I just re-built my 7 tooth and have the same problem and mine leaks Pen-rite steering box fluid at that seam. I called Steve Becker at Berts and he told me that those two pieces are supposed to be peened together and not spin. I am going to silver braze(silver solder) the two together. I am using the silver braze because it doesn't take as much heat but is really strong and hopefully will not deposit as much material in the weld joint that might interfere with the light switch. Just my opinion.

Marc
 
Original. It doesnt spin easily but if you really try it will move. I put in the little sector seal and it works really good but even as thick as the Penrite is it will leave a little drip on the engine tin.If you don't check it once in a while it migrates to the end. Kind of makes a thick film. Granted my car is no cream puff but I don't like it to be a greasy mess If I can help it.
 
I've had to fix the same problem on a couple of customer's cars.
I made several punch marks with a center punch to lock the parts from turning.
 
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