6v to 12v

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Pvmt-Pndr

Member
1950 merc mostly original. 3 on the tree with OD.
Most of the wiring in the car is shot, I've fixed/patched/repaired but I'm beyond that point now. I recently bought a 6V rebel wiring kit to redo all the wiring in the car front to back. I want to go the 12v route for a few different reasons. I have been looking at kits and was wondering if there is a go to kit for this conversion.
I've been looking at this kit from vintage auto garage, it's a little pricey but appears to come with everything. Whats the difference between an alternator and powergen unit? I like the look of the powergen over an alternator.

If theres something else out there i should be looking at please let me know.
https://vintageautogarage.com/1949-...-flathead-v8-5-8-pulley-powergen-kit-f4958pg/
 
If you have already bought a new kit from Rebel Wire why will it not work if you convert to 12 volts? That kit should be just fine for 12 volts.
 
What I said must have been misleading, the 6v kit I have no issues with. I was just stating that I have it. My questions are more based around a kit for converting to 12 volt.
 
You probably don't need a kit to convert your car to 12V, just a lot of careful searching for the correct bulbs, ignition coil, overdrive relay, heater blower motor, etc.


I have to ask, why are you considering converting to 12V? Once you have a nice new wiring harness 6V will work for you very well. What problems are you trying to solve by changing to 12V?
 
Just re read your post - difference between an alternator and the Powergen?
They are both alternators, think you are looking at the GM 10Si alternator used on millions of cars and trucks, it was popular years ago, because it was the only alternator readily available.
The Powergen is an alternator made to look like the Ford generators. It bolts in place
of the generator.
I changed my shoebox woodie to 12V about 15 years ago, and have zero issues. If you make the change the generator charge wire on your gauge cluster needs to be reversed
as it passes through the loop, since you are going from positive ground to negative ground.
I run my 6V starter on 12 volts. Also used the Ron Francis 12V to 6V solid state voltage regulator. I mounted it on a metal panel about the driver's side kick panel. Ran the 12V power into it and ran the 6V output gauge cluster.
 
The car will be wired with the 6v kit, then I'll be going to 12v.

38 coupe, that's what I'm trying to get away from doing. Not enough time in the day. A kit will save me a lit of time. My 6V is just fine, I don't have problems I'm trying to cover up by going ro 12v. I do like the idea of brighter lights all the way around, I've had quite a few people tell me they have a hard time seeing my tail lights when it's bright outside. I run stupid bright LEDs on my other classic.

Wga, thanks for the links. I'll read them shortly.

EDIT: wga thanks for the explanation and suggestions. Ill definitely be doing that. That's what I figured it was, I like the generator look.
 
I'll never go back to 6V. SVO alternator, electronic ignition and a full time electric fuel pump thru a bump/impact switch. Also updated the carburation to a 4GC and 30R7 fuel hose.
I got tired of futzing with points, carburetor issues and running a 6volt dead trying to get fuel to the carburetor after setting for a few month.
Sure, the old system worked but in the good old daze there was a mechanic on every street corner for a reason.
 
Pvmt-Pndr said:
What I said must have been misleading, the 6v kit I have no issues with. I was just stating that I have it. My questions are more based around a kit for converting to 12 volt.
Click to expand...

O.K. I'm more confused than ever with your post. If you already have a Rebel Wire harness then it is a universal harness with a fuse box. Rebel wire does not make a so called 6 volt harness. The harness has the heavy wire that will work with 6 or 12 volt. They do make harnesses with fuse boxes that have a different amount of fuses depending on the accessories on the car. Read the instructions that came with your harness kit and determine if it covers all the items you have on the car. If it does, then you have no need to get another harness.
 
If you don't need the extra output of an alternator you can save a lot by buying a reman 1964 Galaxie 390 V8 12 volt generator (starter also) - check rockauto. You will have to swap the front cover plates. Worked for me on my 8BA. All the other small parts you need for the conversion are relatively inexpensive.
 
Six volt wire is more than adequate for 12V. I have done this conversion in the past with no problems. You don't need an overpriced kit. If you are ok with an alternator instead of a generator (actually better as you have constant output at all RPMs)


Get a 12V one wire alternator Just attaches one wire to the battery and done. Change all of the bulbs, horn relay, turn signal flasher, ignition coil to 12 units. Use a resistor for the blower motor and fuel sender.
You can keep the stock horn (will be very loud) or get a 12V horn.

Can't comment on the radio as I did not have one.
I used the stock starter, it will spin faster, just don't crank more than 15 seconds at a time (as should be done with all starters).
This was my daily drive for years...no problems, and quick starts in cold weather.
Cheers!
 
30Murray said:
If you don't need the extra output of an alternator you can save a lot by buying a reman 1964 Galaxie 390 V8 12 volt generator (starter also) - check rockauto. You will have to swap the front cover plates. Worked for me on my 8BA. All the other small parts you need for the conversion are relatively inexpensive.
Click to expand...

In the one I bought there is no hole for the alignment pin at the bottom of the generator. What did you do about that? Just leave the pin out?

Kirk
 
kirkf said:
In the one I bought there is no hole for the alignment pin at the bottom of the generator. What did you do about that? Just leave the pin out?

Kirk
Click to expand...
I bought the 8BA without a generator and looking at some photos I'm pretty sure the mount did not have a locating pin or perhaps had already been removed. It would have had to be for me to align the pulleys. It's clamped firmly in place so it doesn't seem to be needed anyway.
 
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