6v generater vs 6v alternator

I just bought a powergen 6v positive ground alternator for my 29 phaeton.
Other than connecting a ground cable to the rear housing cover bolt, the installation instructions say to run a "charge"wire to the negative battery post from the terminal on top of the alternator. Can this attach to the starter switch bolt or needs to run further back to the actual battery post?
Also where do the horn and headlamp wires connect?
I called tech support and he said he was unfamiliar with model A wiring.....
Thanks for your help!
 
Ron Niemeyer said:
I just bought a powergen 6v positive ground alternator for my 29 phaeton.
Other than connecting a ground cable to the rear housing cover bolt, the installation instructions say to run a "charge"wire to the negative battery post from the terminal on top of the alternator. Can this attach to the starter switch bolt or needs to run further back to the actual battery post?
Also where do the horn and headlamp wires connect?
I called tech support and he said he was unfamiliar with model A wiring.....
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

You wire it exactly the same as you'd wire a generator. The yellow-and-black cutout-to-terminal wire connects to the output post, as do the horn and light switch wires.
 
Ron, wire it like original (as alexiskai said).

509147
 

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Thank you both for the response and picture.
I don't see in the pic the "charge" wire or separate ground that the instructions told me to do?
I'd sure hate to fry something.....
Thanks, Ron
 
Ron Niemeyer said:
Thank you both for the response and picture.
I don't see in the pic the "charge" wire or separate ground that the instructions told me to do?
I'd sure hate to fry something.....
Thanks, Ron
Click to expand...

The charge wire is the wire that leads to the terminal box. It routes to the battery by way of the ammeter. You have to run it through the ammeter in order for the ammeter to read correctly. You can run a separate ground if you want, but most Model A alternators ground through the case to the chassis.

What's the part number for the alternator you bought?
 
Hope this helps. My PowerGen is grounded to the block and the block is grounded to the frame at the transmission.

509183


Connect ground wire to either.

509184
 

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How much is the “huge amp increase “ with the powergen, I don’t want the advertising amount, who has done on the car testing of real world output?
The ad states “stops dimming headlights “ — the first thing i noticed when i put in halogen bulbs is that the dimming at idle went away when the generator was not charging.
If there is such a large increase in amperage what is the recommendation for increasing the wire size to handle the increased amperage of the charging system?
 
Kurt in NJ said:
How much is the “huge amp increase “ with the powergen, I don’t want the advertising amount, who has done on the car testing of real world output?
The ad states “stops dimming headlights “ — the first thing i noticed when i put in halogen bulbs is that the dimming at idle went away when the generator was not charging.
If there is such a large increase in amperage what is the recommendation for increasing the wire size to handle the increased amperage of the charging system?
Click to expand...

This is where things start to get weird between the advertised amperage and the actual current flow. The advertised amperage is the supposed maximum that the alternator can produce at a given RPM. For a 6V alternator you might be looking at 50A at idle, 60A max. But those amps need somewhere to go or they won't be produced. The battery will only take a certain number of amps – you can't just feed it 90A and charge it in a couple of minutes. If your lights and accessories aren't using a ton of amps then you'll never approach the alternator's limits.

Generally speaking, lead-acid batteries max out charging amperage around 25% of their rated Ah. So for example, the Optima Red is rated at 50 Ah, which means you could send it at most 12A before you'd start damaging it. Halogens might draw 10A. Sound the horn at the same time, that'll draw 5A. Now you're at what, 30A? To go any higher you'll need an electric heater or something else with a large current draw.

So the wiring doesn't have to be sized to handle the full 60A output unless you reasonably expect to use that output somewhere. Powergen recommends 8-gauge wire, but you should assess your individual situation to determine the gauge you need.
 
I know the advertised output is not the same as real world, the cold output is a lot more than the hot output, and to make that output the power has to be transmitted from the crankshaft to the alternator shaft.
When I go to shows I rarely touch anything on cars that are on display, there is one weakness I have, it is touching alternator fans, with one finger pushing on the fan I have yet to find one that doesn’t easily slip on the belt, this is why I am asking if real world output on the car is being tested, I know from many years of working on more modern cars that when touching the alternator fan and having it easily slip on the belt that the car will have battery low charge problems.
I f the wire is not good for the largest possible output someday the smoke will come out of the wire, if the battery is low on charge a alternator will put out whatever amps it can do up to its rating to make the voltage unless there’s other limitations like battery not willing to be charged or slippages in the power transmission
I think there is room inside the flywheel for a permanent magnet alternator, probably enough to run electric air conditioner, have emergency power for house
 
Thanks guys for the clarification of operation and connections.I don't expect to ever need anywhere close to the max output as powergen claims. 8 gauge wire seemed excessive for a ground wire and to replace the existing original charge wire. I suppose they have to cover their rears on max output.
Powergen 82006 is what I bought.
By the way, nice looking engine compartment!
I'll install and report back...
 
BlueWaterEric said:
Anybody out there done the switch, would be interested in pros and cons and if easy to switch or is it a simple pull out and drop in? 1928 Model A pickup
Click to expand...

I did the switch several years ago to a 6 volt alternator, but was forced into it by not doing good research! I decided to change out my headlamps to allow original headlight housings to take a 6 volt sealed beam headlamp, next is the only ones available are Halogen with a bit higher current drains. ( This meant I would need to crank up the 3rd brush for higher amps, but only for the headlamps) So I looked around and found a GM modified 6 volt alternator to solve the issue! Next, the Alternator bracket for belt tension, I had to fabricate!
Will try and find a picture of the finished product for You. Since you are asking about this, I venture you are not into having your car be original per judging standards. Me neither!
 
BlueWaterEric said:
Anybody out there done the switch, would be interested in pros and cons and if easy to switch or is it a simple pull out and drop in? 1928 Model A pickup
Click to expand...

Here is the picture of my installation!
 

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