6V Coil

R

Robert Legner

Member
In my 1950 Ford with 8BA the car starts and runs well, but after it is really warmed up it will misfire, chug, chug, then it will run pretty well. When driving the car on a state road and when waiting at a traffic signal I can feel the misfire. My question has to do with the coil. Is it possible for a bad coil, when it is hot, to cause a misfire but not stop completely. It has never stopped running, only misfire. I am stumped. Ill Bob
 
Feel the coil when this is happening and see if it is very hot. Might also want to check out several other current threads on the same topic.
 
This kinda of problem is pretty common on the forum and some try to give a generic answer.
The 50 Ford has a external oil filled coil that seldom fails assuming all the wiring is the same with oem resistors etc..
I would be more concerned with the load a matic vacuum distributor and idle action with the diaphram etc. I would unhook the vacuum line , plug the vac end and test drive . No change then i would use a vacuum pump and make the diaphram move while idling.
Still no change i would replace the condensor ( easy to do))))
 
Bubbas, thank you for your response. The wiring etc is stock. I am hearing you suggest the coil may not be the problem. I did change the condensor, the problem I am having was there before the new condensor. Is it possible for the old condensor to be bad as well as the new one?
 
Many years ago. when I would do a tune up, I found more bad new condensers, than old ones. So often that I did not replace the condenser, just the points. Customer saved a buck. Also remember Champion plugs orange print no good, red print good.
Some times 11 plugs to get 8 good ones.
Bruce
 
I think what Bubba is saying and I don't mean to speak for him as he is a master with ignition systems having saved my butt a few times, is that the load a matic vacuum distributor has lots to be desired. You may not be getting the proper vacuum at idle. Are you running two carbs or just one? Bubba was just giving you a way to test the vacuum to see if you had a bad condensor.
 
The 1950 Ford is stock, the distributor, ignition system, generator, one Holly 94 on the stock intake manifold, 6volt battery. The engine has not been altered in any way. The factory vacuum lines are in place. I have not run the test to zero in on the Load-a-matic system. If the Load-a-matic is not working is there a remedy? I ran the car today and after a warm-up the coil was not hot. In fact almost cool. Does any of this help?
 
Robert Legner said:
The 1950 Ford is stock, the distributor, ignition system, generator, one Holly 94 on the stock intake manifold, 6volt battery. The engine has not been altered in any way. The factory vacuum lines are in place. I have not run the test to zero in on the Load-a-matic system. If the Load-a-matic is not working is there a remedy? I ran the car today and after a warm-up the coil was not hot. In fact almost cool. Does any of this help?
Click to expand...

Every thing is fixable , if the load a matic is the problem they can be rebuilt to work as new .........
 
If you are not running the correct carb with the vacuum port above the throttle plates, the distributor advance will be incorrect.
 
In reading internet material about how the Load O Matic works it talks about the Spark Control Valve. The Holly 94 on my 1950 Ford does not have that valve on it. Is does have the metal tube leading from the back of the carbuerator to the vacuum advance mechanism, but no Spark Control Valve. Is it possible I do not have the correct carb on the car. I have seen carbs with the Spark Control Valve, like a l951 Ford or 1952 Ford. Could that be my problem?
 
The spark control valve was introduced for the 1954 Y block engine. Would not have been found before that.
 
Main thing is the distributor vacuum advance has to be connected to a port above the throttle plates to work with a load-0- matic. Absolutely no option here...
 
I did some research on the Holley 94 and found the "94" of Holley 94 is the size of the venturi, .94 inch. Later 94's that have the spark control valve have a 1.00 inch venturi. Although the later 94 would work I suspect the larger venturi would throw the fuel consumption off. Your thoughts......
 
I would like to buy a Holley 94 with the Spark Control Valve that is appropriate for the Y Block for the 1954 Ford. I have looked on eBay with no success. Any suggestions?
 
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