6V Alternator

F

Fe26

Well-known member
I am over rebuilding generators. Time for an alternator. Does anyone have an opinion on the 6V 50amp one wire alternator offered by C&G. I've searched our archives and have found that two wire alternators are preferred, but being an 'electrical dummy' I now put myself in your hands. It seems to me that C&G Ford (a company I hold in high regard, and with whom I have dealt for many years) should have their act together regarding the one wire alternator they have on offer. Your thoughts please. Comments on actual driving experience would be preferred over the opinions of armchair critics. Thank you.
 
I have had a one wire alternator [gm style]on my 40 for over ten years. Bought it used and had it rebuilt once. It has worked well. Does not look original but it was cost effective.
 
You can take a one wire GM alternator change the actuator and it will charge @ just off idle No need to jazz the engine up to get it to charge / great when cruising around on the 2ndary roads
I had that done on the one in SHEBA & never looked back :eek: >>
 
I have a one wire, 6v on my 51 and everything works much better. Lights are brighter and my overdrive never fails to kick in. Highly recommend. In my opinion there is no need to go 12 volts, just go with a 6v alternator.
 
37 Coupe said:
One and done for me.Ed Whitney alternator conversion 8 years ago .6 volts trouble free.
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That's what I'm running, but the two wire version. He sells them one and two wire. However, they are not GM alternator (guts) believe they are Ford and the one vs two wire is a totally different issue with this alternator. One wire (form Whitney) is fine, I went with the two wire for a different reason, had to do with the way I was wiring it.
 
JSeery said:
That's what I'm running, but the two wire version. He sells them one and two wire. However, they are not GM alternator (guts) believe they are Ford and the one vs two wire is a totally different issue with this alternator. One wire (form Whitney) is fine, I went with the two wire for a different reason, had to do with the way I was wiring it.
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I thought I was told at the time the innards are new Kawasaki .
 
IMO as long as you buy from a reputable mfr, the "issues" are over. The older conversions just jumpered two terminals on a 3-wire GM, and would not kick off reliably until some revs. For more than 10 yrs there have been internal 1-wire regulators designed just for this market, that kick off virtually from idle.
 
I've been running a 6 volt, one wire for about 12 years. I got it from 5th Ave. in KS and it's been flawless from day one. It also gave me more clearance for my 4bl. 360 Holley.

Installation instructions were a dream and I think I had to reverse the polarity on the battery....it's been a while. Also, gauges worked perfectly.

Good luck. I think you will be pleased......Dick.
 
Fe26 said:
Please enlighten me, what are the one wire issues.
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GM alternators do not work correctly when using one wire. Thousands of guys use them this way, so have at it, but if you notice GM does not wire them this way and there is a reason. There are several "fixes" so if you just have to have one wire it is workable. I'm not sure why so many people are hung-up on this one wire stuff, running two wires doesn't seem like a big deal to me, but again if two wires are too many for ya, run one and live with it (again thousands do). The "issues" are easily researched, but in a nut shell, one wire does not allow the GM alternators to self excite properly. Another "issue" is it is not sensing the system voltage from a proper source, so it never regulates the output voltage quite correctly. Very simple to run the second sensing wire, but seems to completed for a lot of folks, so the one wire solution.
 
JSeery:
[/Quote ] one wire does not allow the GM alternators to self excite properly

Please explain excite Properly ?????
 
JSeery said:
GM alternators do not work correctly when using one wire. Thousands of guys use them this way, so have at it, but if you notice GM does not wire them this way and there is a reason. There are several "fixes" so if you just have to have one wire it is workable. I'm not sure why so many people are hung-up on this one wire stuff, running two wires doesn't seem like a big deal to me, but again if two wires are too many for ya, run one and live with it (again thousands do). The "issues" are easily researched, but in a nut shell, one wire does not allow the GM alternators to self excite properly. Another "issue" is it is not sensing the system voltage from a proper source, so it never regulates the output voltage quite correctly. Very simple to run the second sensing wire, but seems to completed for a lot of folks, so the one wire solution.
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If you run the 1-wire directly to the battery, it "could" be sensing system voltage incorrectly. If you run it into the dashboard, where power is distributed, with a heavy wire back to the battery, it does just fine. My (12v) battery has lasted 10 years and counting, using a 1-wire connected in that way. After the initial recharge from starting, system voltage is rock-steady and right where it should be.

MAD Enterprises' webpage on 1 vs 3-wires is frequently posted. Their points are well-taken IF you have a car with electric windows, power seats, air conditioning, etc. etc. OR if you want an idiot light. For an old car or truck that lived for 60+ years with a 35-amp generator, it's way overkill.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
 
The nuns in grade school called it "self-abuse". By the time I figured out what they were talking about I didn't understand where the abuse was.
 
Have a 24 volt stator put in your 1 wire 6 volt GM alternator. It will charge at idle with a standard size Ford pulley. It cost $35.00 for the 2 I had done. G.M
 
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