660^F @ the manifold

T

TomballMottershaw

Member
Do I need to adjust something to get the manifold temperature down ?
is 660^F in the acceptable range? the my 30' Tudor's engine runs fine.

I would like to wrap insulate the vertical section of the exhaust, does this work well ?
 
DON'T wurry, they supposed to get HOT, it's full of SCREAMIN' BLUE FLAME!!
Bill W. (You'll appreciate that heat, in the WINTER!)
 
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Wrapping the pipe will cause increased heat in the pipe and it will burn out quicker. It might be OK on stainless.
Ron W
 
660F? How fast were you running the engine... I measure my engine with a laser and the hottest the toward the end of the manifold ~530F.. but I do not go over 35mph so 660F might be OK if your going faster.
 
thankx
I was going ~45mph in the Houston 95^F heat.
rear corner of the manifold, this is where I measure mine with infrared temp gauge too.
The Radiator temp was at 195^F
 
I have a thermocouple in the manifold next to no 3 exh. At 60 mph up a long steep hill flat out it reads 800 deg C. And 750 at 55 mph. That is the gas temp. of course. I have not measured the outside surface but 750 C is 1472 F! Water was 150 F. Thermostat is 160. Water never gets to 160 even though thermostat tests out at 160 in a kettle and temp guage reads accurately.
SAJ in NZ
 
Some earlier Chev V-8's had a double wall exhaust head pipe. Sometimes the inner wall would get HOT enough to COLLAPSE & restrict the exhaust SO bad, that it would hardly RUN!!!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Some earlier Chev V-8's had a double wall exhaust head pipe. Sometimes the inner wall would get HOT enough to COLLAPSE & restrict the exhaust SO bad, that it would hardly RUN!!!
Bill W.
Click to expand...

Yes, I fixed a lot of them in the 70's and 80's when I worked at the GM dealerships. I learned real quick what a good exhaust flow feels like.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Yes, I fixed a lot of them in the 70's and 80's when I worked at the GM dealerships. I learned real quick what a good exhaust flow feels like.
Click to expand...
Yes, Tom,
It's good to know that HISSING/WHEEZY sound @ the tailpipe. That can help diagnose a Model A exhaust that's plugged up with CRITTERS, MOUSE NESTS, NUTS, ETC.:eek:
When Chief acquired a plugged muffler, he leaned it, tail pipe UP, poured in coal oil, lit it from the BOTTOM & BURNED the crap out of it! Even now, "MAYBE" that would be a help in burning out restrictive CARBON DEPOSITS??? On top of a rubbish pile, he even burned old ROCK hard tires off of wheels & it removed ALL the paint, also.:D We'd paint BLACK wheels, by reducing the paint with Coal Oil & applying it with a HUDSON, Constant Pressure, FLY SPRAYER.
We DIDN'T have electricity, compressors, cut off tools from Harbor Freight or NOTHING!!! Po' Folks had PO' WAYS!!
TICKS me off when some CRITICIZE old "FARMER FIXES", we had to do what we HAD to do to keep our cars "ON THE ROAD AGAIN":D WELL, I'm AWAKE now, you Boys had COFFEE yet?:)
Bill W.
 
How would this " Excess" heat affect the manifold? I'm thinking of the "Sagging Manifold Syndrome". It seems to me that the hotter the metal, the easier it would distort.
Terry
 
Terry said:
How would this " Excess" heat affect the manifold? I'm thinking of the "Sagging Manifold Syndrome". It seems to me that the hotter the metal, the easier it would distort.
Terry
Click to expand...
YEP, you got it RIGHT, Terry. I've even "thought" about adding a support strap @ the front of the exhaust system, so the extra weight WOULDN'T hasten the sagging of the RED HOT manifold. Would that DEDUCT me 20 POINTS, for a "FARMER FIX"?
Bill W.
 
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