Ok ,I replaced my starter with a Robb MC starter and after it would crank but not start.No problem starting before starter install.Every time I go to start the red with green stripe from the ign switch C terminal which goes to the I term on the starter solenoid on the fender BURNS UP! will call robb Mc tomorrow.
62 ford 390 no spark
- Thread starter mikhett
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
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I think you've got the wrong wires on the 'S' and 'I' terminals.
See the wiring diagram linked in my next post. The red w/ green wire should go to the '+' terminal on the coil, not the starter solenoid.
It sounds like the small red / green wire is trying to power the starter directly, and bypassing the solenoid contacts for the starter.
The amount of power needed to turn the starter & engine could nearly vaporize that small wire.
Solenoid wiring image below...
Depending on the under-hood location of the: battery, solenoid and starter, the large battery and starter cable connections on the solenoid can be reversed.
BUT, the wiring to the 'S' and 'I' terminals has to be as pictured below, no exceptions.
And/or you may need a new solenoid.
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I think you've got the wrong wires on the 'S' and 'I' terminals.
See the wiring diagram linked in my next post. The red w/ green wire should go to the '+' terminal on the coil, not the starter solenoid.
It sounds like the small red / green wire is trying to power the starter directly, and bypassing the solenoid contacts for the starter.
The amount of power needed to turn the starter & engine could nearly vaporize that small wire.
Solenoid wiring image below...
Depending on the under-hood location of the: battery, solenoid and starter, the large battery and starter cable connections on the solenoid can be reversed.
BUT, the wiring to the 'S' and 'I' terminals has to be as pictured below, no exceptions.
And/or you may need a new solenoid.
.
Attachments
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
Here's a link to a wiring diagram for a '62 Ford V8.
(don't be confused by the two distributors ~ one is for cars with a y-block 292, the other for cars with an FE 352 / 390, they have different firing order wiring.)
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Ford/MWire5765-210.jpg
It shows the wire on the 'C' terminal of the key switch is the engine 'run' wire for the ignition.
From the ign switch it goes to a pink resistance wire then to a red w/ green wire which goes to the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
As shown in the wiring diagram: the wire on the starter solenoid 'S' terminal should come from the 'S' (start) terminal of the ignition key switch, thru the neutral safety switch (if the car has an auto trans) and be Red / Blue.
The wire on the solenoid 'I' terminal should be brown and its other end connects to the red / green wire for the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
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(don't be confused by the two distributors ~ one is for cars with a y-block 292, the other for cars with an FE 352 / 390, they have different firing order wiring.)
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Ford/MWire5765-210.jpg
It shows the wire on the 'C' terminal of the key switch is the engine 'run' wire for the ignition.
From the ign switch it goes to a pink resistance wire then to a red w/ green wire which goes to the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
As shown in the wiring diagram: the wire on the starter solenoid 'S' terminal should come from the 'S' (start) terminal of the ignition key switch, thru the neutral safety switch (if the car has an auto trans) and be Red / Blue.
The wire on the solenoid 'I' terminal should be brown and its other end connects to the red / green wire for the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
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So the way I read that schematic is the + side of the coil gets reduced voltage all the time.I thought you want 12 volts during starting at the coil then after it starts the ign relay contacts open disconnecting 12 v at the I term and the coil runs on the reduced voltage at the end of the resistance wire.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Yes, the coil gets reduced voltage anytime the key/ignition switch is in the 'run' or "C" position, via the resistance wire (or ballast resistor) to the red/green wire on the coil '+' terminal.
Full 12v power to the coil for starting comes from the 'I' terminal on the (energized) starter solenoid only when the key is turned to the start position, then thru the brown wire on that 'I' terminal, which goes to a connection for the '+' terminal of the coil.
Time, under hood heat & chemicals may have discolored some of the wires. Trace back and double check that the wires you're looking at actually are the wires they seem to be.
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Full 12v power to the coil for starting comes from the 'I' terminal on the (energized) starter solenoid only when the key is turned to the start position, then thru the brown wire on that 'I' terminal, which goes to a connection for the '+' terminal of the coil.
Time, under hood heat & chemicals may have discolored some of the wires. Trace back and double check that the wires you're looking at actually are the wires they seem to be.
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
Yes, if the solenoid doesn't have a good ground thru it's mounting bolts it won't function properly.
If the solenoid is mis-wired and/or has a bad internal contact for the battery connection it might cause the small wire on the 'I' terminal to try to power the starter directly, which would melt the wire.
To test the starter solenoid separately from the rest of the wiring in the car...
Remove the other wires from the '+' battery cable terminal of the solenoid, leaving only the battery cable connected. (don't touch the car body with the wrench while on that terminal)
The large cable to the starter should remain in place also.
Remove the wires on the 'S' and 'I' terminals. Place auto transmission in park or manual trans in neutral, parking brake on or block the wheels.
Touch a jumper wire from the '+' battery cable terminal to the 'S' terminal of the solenoid.
The solenoid, 'I' terminal and starter should all energize, and the engine will turn.
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
With a printed copy of the wiring diagram and a voltage / continuity meter double check that the car's ignition and starter wiring is hooked up like the diagram.
The (red/green) wire from the "C" terminal of the ign key switch connects to the resistor wire/ballast resistor, then to a red/green wire for the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
The (red/blue) wire on the ignition key switch "S" terminal goes to the NSS and then to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid.
The (brown) wire from the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid goes to a connection on the 'ign coil side' of the resistance wire/ballast resistor, or sometimes directly to the ignition coil '+' terminal.
Check the continuity of the ignition resistor wire.
When the red/green wire melted it may have taken the resistor wire with it.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect/adjust the points.
and...
There is a small ground wire inside the distributor from the points mounting plate to the distributor housing. It is usually neglected and often in poor condition. If it's loose or in bad shape the points won't work worth a darn.
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The (red/green) wire from the "C" terminal of the ign key switch connects to the resistor wire/ballast resistor, then to a red/green wire for the '+' terminal of the ignition coil.
The (red/blue) wire on the ignition key switch "S" terminal goes to the NSS and then to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid.
The (brown) wire from the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid goes to a connection on the 'ign coil side' of the resistance wire/ballast resistor, or sometimes directly to the ignition coil '+' terminal.
Check the continuity of the ignition resistor wire.
When the red/green wire melted it may have taken the resistor wire with it.
It wouldn't hurt to inspect/adjust the points.
and...
There is a small ground wire inside the distributor from the points mounting plate to the distributor housing. It is usually neglected and often in poor condition. If it's loose or in bad shape the points won't work worth a darn.
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
It's about 99% that the original colors of the ignition & starting circuit wires in your car should match the colors in the wiring diagram linked in comment #3 above.
Depending on what has happened to the car in the past 54 years... if your '62 is anything like my '55, there have been some 'questionable' repairs by previous owners, so look out for those.
Replacements for damaged color coded wiring should match as close as possible to help make future trouble shooting & repairs less confusing, but getting the right connections to the correct terminals is the most important part.
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Depending on what has happened to the car in the past 54 years... if your '62 is anything like my '55, there have been some 'questionable' repairs by previous owners, so look out for those.
Replacements for damaged color coded wiring should match as close as possible to help make future trouble shooting & repairs less confusing, but getting the right connections to the correct terminals is the most important part.
.
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