6000 miles - what to do

sequim

Junior Member
1930 Roadster, restored mid 70's, Dad bought it late 70's made it a Deluxe. I've been told repeatedly that the guy who restored it did a very good job. I'm sure my Dad did not do anything to the car. When my Dad died in 2003 the car came to me (4500 miles) and I've driven it around here 30 miles or so at a time and are now over 6000 miles. I replaced the distributor, redid wiring, put in working pop out switch, redid Zenith carb with original jets and tried to keep the car as original as I can. I did get good advice on a person rebuilding leakless water pumps and that has been flawless too. Motor starts and runs well. Now for the questions.
I wanted to slow down or limit a few minor oil leaks and do required long term maintenance. Good winter project to do undercarriage work. I want to drive this car at least until it's 100th birthday.
The oil pan paint is flaking off badly. I could put Hirsch chassis paint in place but wondering about needed maintenance on the engine. I run detergent half synthetic oil but was wondering about sludge over the years in the oil pan. Also wondering about setting valves, check bearing clearances etc. What should I be doing if I drop the pan? What do I watch for and not make mistakes dropping the pan?
The ****** is leaking slightly from the shaft retainer. Can that be removed and sealed or is that a ****** remove issue?
My original shocks appear to be seized as I can't budge them. Outside of shock of course painted and has original markings. I'll have to find a shock rebuilder as I can't tackle that type of project and there isn't an organized club in this area.
Advice on what I should be tackling and where to look for "how to's" to do the repairs?
 
are you in Sequim,WA? We have a very active club on Whidbey Island check site or call for info, Gary.579-5919
 
First, get rid of the synthetic oil. That stuff will cause leaks regular leaks won't. It will take 2 or 3 changes to get rid of all the synthetic and not all of it then. At 6000 miles I don't think it needs the bearings clearanced unless it has a knock or is leaking out the rear main excessively. To check for sludge, when you change the oil, look at the drain plug and see if it has any sludge in it. If you still need to check, just drop the pan and clean it out. If you have any questions about this procedure, just ask them here.
 
OK, is the engine making any noises?
If no then don't worry about clearances for now.

You need to get a few books,

Restoration and judging
Les Andrews red book
owners manual

Are the first three I would get (and did).

There are many other books as well. You already have the best resource, Fordbarn!
 
Thanks all. I did find a guy on here to rebuild the shocks. Engine does not make any noise and runs fine. Just didn't want to be "wearing" something and not be aware that's why I was wondering about checking stuff over the winter. Thought I would try to do all under car stuff this winter.
 
All good advice ; I like that era photo in ' as Henry built it' of a new '31 sedan in the showroom which has a drip tray under it! My A drips a little oil & I'd be concerned if it did'nt.
 
3 spots under mine at 50K (rear end, back of ******, and oil drain plug) non of which are life threatening. I call it rust prevention. ;)
 
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