6 volt starter install question

haystack said:
this 12v i installed appers to me to have exact 3 bolts a 6v does that is what is puzzling me why its stamped 12v
Click to expand...

You need to know what the terminals do, how they are connected internally. You can check it with an ohm meter. A ground activated solenoid will have the center terminal connected to one of the side terminals (the side the battery cable connects to). And it will not show a connection to ground.

The other common style (which is power activated) will not show any connection to either side terminal and will show a connection to ground. Until you know which style of solenoid you have they is no way to know how to wire it up correctly.
 
haystack said:
i need to polorize the voltage regulator again im sure after switching batterys, (F to B ..look for spark and all that.) my book says generator regulator 30 to 33 amps. can i go beyond the 33 amps say up to 40 or more or not incase i need to replace it? right now my amp gauge move just a hair slightly to right when i start truck. i would think it should move more with anew battery or something.
Click to expand...

It should move less with a new battery! The ammeter is showing the current flow to or from the battery, not the generator output. With a good battery with a full charge it should take very little current flow to keep the batteey charged.
 
haystack said:
ok gents thanks again for your time, i apparently had a momentary lapse of reasoning , i hooked up the the wrong battery cable to the opposite side it was suppose to be on the solenoid "DUH!" it stopped my automatic starting cranking problem for sure, but starter button isnt working so im having to hot wire to get it to start. i think starter button is junk.
Click to expand...

My starter was flaky intermittent for a while. It turned out to be a bad contact between the starter switch and it's hole in the dash.

The starter button has two spring clips that hold it in place in the dash. If there is paint or corrosion on the hole where the clips contact, the button may not provide a complete ground. Reach behind the dash to compress the springs and pop the starter button out. There is a fair chance the wire to the switch will touch the dash and run the starter as you do this, so be sure the transmission is in neutral, or disconnect the battery. Then clean the contact area on the hole in the dash and on the switch.
 
drolston said:
My starter was flaky intermittent for a while. It turned out to be a bad contact between the starter switch and it's hole in the dash.

The starter button has two spring clips that hold it in place in the dash. If there is paint or corrosion on the hole where the clips contact, the button may not provide a complete ground. Reach behind the dash to compress the springs and pop the starter button out. There is a fair chance the wire to the switch will touch the dash and run the starter as you do this, so be sure the transmission is in neutral, or disconnect the battery. Then clean the contact area on the hole in the dash and on the switch.
Click to expand...

All true, but only for a solenoid that is activated by a path to ground. It it requires power to activate then it needs a two terminal insulated pushbutton.
 
cant figure out what the hell is going on with my(48 ford f2) i can"t really believe it can be the starter either, ive replaced the 6v starter solenoid, new battery,starter,and just ordered a new voltage rugulator from ebay couple days ago to see if thats any difference. it first fired up ok when i installed the new battery with some starting flud , ran it afew minuets then went to start it again and all i got was was a slow grinding crank and now it wont even try and turn over acts like battery is totally dead again. i get lights ok, but no crank no clicking no nothing. ive taken off cables replaced them and cleaned them still nothing.it acts like something is zapping the battery somewhere .im at my wits end.,im misssing car shows and dumping money into it without results.
 
Battery have load ratings. CCA.



Didn't read this from the beginning but a new battery might work till you figure out your issues. Or at least get it load tested (free at most autozones, etc. Not sure if they can test a 6v) Certainly pull a lead off the battery every time your not driving, if you have a short.


But it could be a lot of things going on here.


12v battery should be fine if the rest is fine. 12v solenoids from a late 50s ford work fine on a early conversion.


Have you jumped the starter?





.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top