6 Volt Flasher
- Thread starter Kpar
- Start date
Hi Keith, as long as the flasher unit is not electronic then it will work either positive or negative ground. Most older auto electrical shops would have them or a motor cycle shop also. I have some. Make sure that the 6 volt globes combined wattage on one side matches the wattage rating of the flasher unit otherwise the flash rate might be too fast or slow or might not work at all. Regards, Kevin.
Keith, the only reason the flasher switch would need an earth is for the warning light to work, otherwise it does not need an earth. It may get an earth through the steering column clamp but paint might prevent that. You have not explained what the problem is with the flashers. Regards, Kevin.
Karl
Well-known member
Thanks Kevin I've always wondered why my indicators flash more rapidly than I want -I will check the wattage is balanced -Karl
Kpar
Senior Member
Kevin, at first the indicator light stopped working and lights flashing fast. After half hour run no indicators at all flasher felt very hot. Let it cool still not working so I thought it was burnt out.
I done a test this morning, Batt to the X terminal & hooked a bulb up to the L terminal and the bulb flashed as it should. No flashing of the indicator light though. I've either got a wiring problem or switch on the column.
Could I just hook the indicator light up to the L terminal ?.
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
I've bought them on eBay (I believe it was) Anyhow. I'll try and find mine tomorrow and post who to contact. Works great. By the way, anyone know where I can buy a 6V clicker for one? The 6V buzzer is driving me crazy.
40cpe
Well-known member
That is the reason it is there, so you will turn it off
A cotton ball on the noise outlet wrapped with electrical tape until it is not
as obnoxious will make it more tolerable.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
If you hook your indicator to the L terminal current will be flowing through the relay at all time...not good.
Have you tried hooking a testlight to the P terminal or a small bulb just to check there isn´t an issue in the circuit to the indicator.
Keith, NO, cant connect warning light to the L terminal, has to go on the P terminal which stands for Pilot light. The L terminal stands for LOAD as in the load of two bulbs on one side of the car. That load has to be the correct wattage of the two bulbs which is approx. 36 watts to make the flasher unit work correctly. If that load is not close to correct then the flasher unit wont flash at the correct rate (speed) and possibly wont operate the pilot light either. That's what the pilot light is for to warn you that the outside lights are not working correctly. Each of your outside bulbs should be 6 volt 18 watts. The yanks rate their bulbs (we call em globes) in CP or CANDLEPOWER which is fairly close to watts in number. We don't need to go into that but I guess someone will pipe up with an explanation to vent their electrical knowledge. So check each of your outside bulbs and make sure they are 18 watts each and test that thay actually work by powering them up. Not likely that you have a wiring fault if they worked before. Make sure each light has a good earth or ground to the chassis. If you buy a new flasher unit make sure it is 6 volt 36 watts and has three terminals. There are many variations here and the VW ones mentioned may have different terminals which will only confuse the issue for you. The X or power terminal should be fused with a 10 amp fuse. Regards, Kevin.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
The bimetall flashers are simple creatures.
When you apply load to it a bimetall is heated upp until it opens the points...cools off and closes again.
The higher load (w) you apply the more heat it manages to absorb before opening...that´s why full load flashes slower then just one bulb.
The pilot light is just another set of points working in parallel.
I prefer 21w bulbs over the 18w...only difference is perhaps you can notice a bit slower flashing.
When you apply load to it a bimetall is heated upp until it opens the points...cools off and closes again.
The higher load (w) you apply the more heat it manages to absorb before opening...that´s why full load flashes slower then just one bulb.
The pilot light is just another set of points working in parallel.
I prefer 21w bulbs over the 18w...only difference is perhaps you can notice a bit slower flashing.
Keith, that's ok. So sounds like a bit of bad workmanship there. Terminals should not come loose or off if done carefully. Make sure you tell me the make of the switch or terminal markings. Clear pics would be good. Regards, Kevin.
Kpar
Senior Member
Thanks Kevin. Bolts & nuts ok Electrics poo.
Attached is a photo of what I think was the connection.
Your advice.
Keith
Attachments
Keith. Your switch is made by Hella and your wiring is not correct. Terminal 54 connects to the L (load) terminal on the flasher unit. Terminal K connects to the P terminal (pilot light)on the flasher unit. L and R go to the left and right wires for your flasher lamps. Terminal X on flasher unit connects through a 10 amp in line fuse to battery power which is Negative on your Positive ground car. There is a short brown wire that is soldered into the flasher switch which has to be grounded for the pilot light. Pilot light is in the end of the flasher switch arm. Good luck. Regards, Kevin.