6 volt change to 12 volt (pros and cons)

Fartman

Fartman

Member
I have 1933 Ford 5 window coupe that i have brought back from near death,and it needs a complete rewire,should i keep it 6 volt or change to 12 volt?.what would i need to change to make it 12 volt?.I would like to keep the car looking as close to original as posible but have realiability,any input would be appriciated,thanks Martin
 
Depends on what your going for, original? ... 6 volts systems work fine as long as they are maintained. I've got one of each and both work fine. The 12 volt is better if you plan on using a modern radio and cell charger but there are ways around that. The 12 volt will need resistors on all gauges and heater and 12 volt bulbs also you'll need 12 volt coil ....I know I'm forgetting stuff here but its late. I would stick with six volts if it were me. Just rewire it with the original style harness, there are several people who make them and that way if you change your mind the wire will be sufficient for either one.
 
If re-wiring by all means use 6 volt wire. (larger gage)
This gives you the option of going to 12 volts at a later time.
Although I have converted mine to 12 volt because of the goodies I have (power windows, elec.wipers,etc.), there is no need to convert.
 
On a 12V "pro", certified auto electric has a 1 wire Ford alt/brackett available for the Flathead. I have one on the 59AB in my 39. Scott

I have seen alot of "nos" gen. brushes on the ebay, that might work as a 6V "pro"
 
I have them both ways. If you drive it alot go to 12 volts. Better lights, and you can get light bulbs and igntion parts on the road easyer. You also can run a electic pump, GPS, HEI igntion, and more. Down side- you will find out how good your starter drive spring is. This flathead is 12volts, early 60's generator with the falthead end plates. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0615.jpg
    DSCF0615.jpg
    100.7 KB · Views: 100
Mine are all 6 volts and work with no problems. I did make some 6 volt alternators for some of the drivers. The alternators charges at idle and low speeds which supplies 7 plus volts at all times keeping the battery fully charged and brighter lights. The generators 6 or 12 volts disconnect from the battery at slow speeds and idle and your running off the battery alone. G.M.
 
I've got one of each. Both systems work fine. The 6 volt system is more sensitve to the integrity of connections and grounds. GM's suggestion to use an alternator is good if you plan to do a lot of low speed operating. Both of mine are generator equiped and I do notice the drop in voltage at slow speeds.

Having halogen headlights is definately a plus. If you are running 6 volt sealbeams hunt for Wagner H6006 lamps. These are 6 volt halogens. These are as bright as the 12 volt.
 
As a young feller all we had was 6V. When they finally switched to 12V our electrical systems actually worked without any hassle. Why anyone would go to all the work to rebuild and rewire a car and stick with 6V positive ground is a mystery to me. If you are going to drive it go 12V. If you are going to show I guess 6V is the way to go.
 
I can't think of any cons to switching to 12V other than doing the work to do it. However a 6v system works ok.
 
6 volt is OK if you know how to set your car up ,tuning etc ,all the Model A guys run it ,the down side is a lack of spares on the side of the road ,a battery being one ,a Altama would be a good option,I ran a small 6 volt vw battery it was still starting the car after 9 years ,12 volt is OK , if you have a bad fuel pump and experience hard starting ,mayby for a car thats driven a lot at night ,and you want to run accessory's more frequent burning of points .I recently fixed a car that the 12 volt had pushed the ring gear of so it was rubbing ,about to put a hole on the inside of the pan .
4t8v8 said:
As a young feller all we had was 6V. When they finally switched to 12V our electrical systems actually worked without any hassle. Why anyone would go to all the work to rebuild and rewire a car and stick with 6V positive ground is a mystery to me. If you are going to drive it go 12V. If you are going to show I guess 6V is the way to go.
Click to expand...
 
An easy solution for the starter drive is to use an old starter drive spring and attach it to the starter where the battery cable goes on and use a nut and bolt to hook the starter cable to the spring, it drops the voltage to about 8 volts on the 6 volt starter.
It makes for easier starting and takes it easy on the stock starter drive.
You can also use the forklift type starter drive which is stronger also. But I like
the starter spring resitor method best.
 
19Fordy said:
Having halogen headlights makes it worth changing from 6 to 12V for me.
Click to expand...

Quartz Halogen bulbs work on 6V generator systems also --I have had them in my A for 10+ years, the same battery for 14 years, never any charging except by driving, no changing of anything except bulbs.
 
Thanks for all the info Guys,I will be using this car as a daily driver,if i change to 12 volt will i need to change the starter motor,generator,plus other parts?.
 
Fartman said:
Thanks for all the info Guys,I will be using this car as a daily driver,if i change to 12 volt will i need to change the starter motor,generator,plus other parts?.
Click to expand...

The starter motor can stay the same. As others said it might be hard on the ring gear but I've been running my 6 volt starter 12 volts for a couple years with no problems.
 
I've driven my '49 F1 with its original 6V wiring for 40 years and it's fine. I don't like the look of the 12V batteries ...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top