6 cylinder "G" Engine valves.

D

darrenct83

Junior Member
Engine is missing on #4. I looked down the spark plug hole and I can see the burned valve. My question is on the replacement process.

Can I just take the head and that valve cover off and slip in a new valve? The engine runs well otherwise. What tool do I need to release the valve from the spring. Can I get in there without taking the manifolds off?

Thanks for the help.
 
Manifold will need to be removed to take the side cover off . Pull the guide down to remove the horseshoe keeper then the valve and guide can be removed from the top as a unit like the V-8s. I have some N.O.S. valves and misc engine parts for these G series sixes and some new head gaskets also. I also have some N.O.S. engine mounts for this engine.
 
Thanks Ken. I'm trying to visualize the set up here. I am a certified mechanic/shop owner, but I work on newer cars. I also sublet out most of my internal engine work to machine shops so this is not something I am too experienced in. I think this is the first car I've owned older than 1990!

The guide comes out through the top... Is it pressed in? Do you by chance have any links to graphics on how it is set up inside. Maybe I'd have a better idea of what I'm doing then. Can this be done with standard mechanics tools? Do I need any kind of spring compressor or anything. Do you think it would be OK to just put a new valve in that spot and no grind the seats or anything?

Thanks again.
 
Before you install the new valve, lap it in with lapping compound, you can then see if the valve is hitting the seat all the way around. Walt
 
darrenct83 said:
Thanks Ken. I'm trying to visualize the set up here. I am a certified mechanic/shop owner, but I work on newer cars. I also sublet out most of my internal engine work to machine shops so this is not something I am too experienced in. I think this is the first car I've owned older than 1990!

The guide comes out through the top... Is it pressed in? Do you by chance have any links to graphics on how it is set up inside. Maybe I'd have a better idea of what I'm doing then. Can this be done with standard mechanics tools? Do I need any kind of spring compressor or anything. Do you think it would be OK to just put a new valve in that spot and no grind the seats or anything?

Thanks again.
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The guide is not pressed in but it may be stuck from carbon and rust. Once you get the head off and the side cover you will see the valve spring and the guide. The guide will move down and this may take some force,there is a keeper against the block that you need to pull out, it has a tab on it with a hole ,you may have to take a stiff wire and put a hook on the end to pull it out. Once that keeper is out the whole thing ,guide ,spring ,valve and all will come out the top of the block
 
even if the valve is new, put it in the valve facing machine and face the valve, you will be surprised how much out of true they can be, from .001 to .003
 
A Chilton's, MOTOR, etc. shop manual from the late '40's-early '50's will have excellent pictures and explanations. Check with your graybeard mechanic friends, used book stores or local library.
 
31chevy said:
What is a "G" engine?
Click to expand...

I really dont know what the G means but it designated the Flathead Ford 6 cyl from 41-47 then the 6 cyl went through some changes and the designation changed to the H series. Not much will interchange between the two.
 
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